W Costa Navarino: Hiking, history and a hefty dose of luxury
A famous Greek myth tells the tale of Hermes, messenger of the Gods, stealing the oxen of his brother, Apollo. Lesser known is the supposed effect this theft had on the coastal landscape of Messinia, an unspoilt corner of the southwestern Peloponnese in Greece.
The story goes that Hermes, who was also the patron God of thieves and known as a “divine trickster,” hid the stolen cattle in Nestor’s cave, above a beach. The resultant peace offering, a lyre made by Hermes, was crafted from turtle shell and stolen ox’s belly (and is how Apollo came to be the God of musis). To this day, turtles still lay their eggs in the bay below this cave, and a perfect semicircle of sand fringes Voidokilia beach, shaped and named after the ox belly.
As I stand on a rocky outcrop gazing down at Voidokilia beach (which is also known as Omega beach — partially for its shape, partially because it’s easier for tourists to pronounce), it’s hard not to believe this beach was formed without divine intervention. It’s too unnatural in its perfect symmetry — but then, this area does have a feeling of magic about it.
I’m staying in Costa Navarino, a luxury resort with hotels sprinkled around Navarino bay on the west coast of Messinia, just a 40 minute drive from dinky Kalamata airport. Home to stunning beaches, scenic ruins, diverse wildlife and designated areas of “particular natural beauty,” it’s a region both rich in hiking trails and steeped in history — and, in my opinion, an absolute dream of a destination.
I was lucky enough to get a villa at W Costa Navarino, a swanky, design-forward hotel located bang on the beach at Navarino Bay. One of the quieter hotels in the resort, it has an over-12-year-olds-only policy and offers swim-up rooms, suites and three bed beachfront villas with their own private pools.
What is there to do?
Explore by hike and bike
As aforementioned, there are some truly out of this world views to be had if you’re willing to put in the work. Navarino Outdoors offers hiking and cycling tours of the local area, offering trips to nearby waterfalls, beaches and historical sites. Pre-expedition my guide, Kyriakos, promises two things: flamingos and the best view we’ve ever seen. And he does not disappoint.
First up is a cycle to and around 250-hectare Gialova Lagoon which, when we visit in October, is temporary home to flocks of flamingos taking a break on their southern migration. African chameleons, which were brought to the area by the Romans, as well as other slender-legged waterfowl can be spotted as you zip around the wetlands.
Next is a steep hike up past olive groves and pomegranate trees heavy with fruit to Paleokastro (the old castle), which was built on the ancient ruins of acropolis of Pylos — a nearby town — in the 1200s. It’s largely crumbling ruins now, but its high vantage point offers sweeping views of the bay and beyond, and just a short walk further brings you in eyesight of the famous ox belly beach.
Hike back down to cool off in the clear waters below and enjoy a picnic on the sandy beach. Not a bad day, all in all.
Visit the local area
Deity-formed beaches aside, there’s plenty to do in the local area. Visit Pylos, a waterfront town with gorgeous views and Niokastro (the new castle), an impressive fort built by the Ottomans in the 1500s. Wash it all down with a beer and people watching in the pretty town square.
A short walk up the beach in the other direction brings you to Gialova, a tiny cobble-streeted village awash with some truly fantastic restaurants — I recommend a late lunch by the water’s edge at Eliá or Ionis café.
Make the most of the resort
As with any great resort, there’s also a plethora of on-site activities you can enjoy, including tennis, padel, golf and an extensive water sports offering. I opted for stand up paddleboarding, which as well as a grounding, energising experience, was ideal for beginners (lucky for my not-so-sure-footed travel companion), because the protected Navarino bay boasts blissfully calm waters.
There’s also a gym with a heated 25m lap pool for those who simply can’t let their routine slip.
That sounds like hard work. How can I wind down?
Well, apart from the multiple pools, well-stocked bars and beach yoga on offer, W Costa Navarino is home to The Away Spa, which boasts a sauna, steam room and extensive treatment menu.
I tested the Detox massage, a heavenly and somewhat spiritual mix of physio, deep tissue massage, lymphatic drainage and psychological life coaching rolled into one. Working out my many knots is Sotiris, an award-winning massage therapist and actual muscle wizard. From just pressing on certain parts of my feet he can tell the exact location of tightness in my hips, and during the hour-long session deduces (accurately) that I’m an overthinker who struggles to relinquish control and relax. At the end he tells me I deserve to take care of myself better, so I leave feeling both loose and slightly teary.
It's worth noting that for a larger spa experience (think plunge pools and thalassotherapy) you’ll need to head to Anazoe Spa at Navarino Dunes — just a free shuttle ride away.
What about the food?
Naturally, you can’t speak about Greece without mentioning the food, and the offerings at W Costa Navarino do not disappoint. Breakfast is a “village square” concept, with outdoor tables surrounded by the bakery, coffee shop, deli and cookery where you can help yourself to a seemingly endless supply of sweet and savoury treats. Do not miss the Greek yoghurt, it’s divine.
Parelia is the hotel’s Greek beach club restaurant, offering up elevated dishes based around land and sea (try the shrimp and shellfish bisque orzo, you won’t be disappointed) while the W Lounge serves unpretentious and tasty plates of steak, burgers, club sandwiches and salads.
I strongly encourage looking further afield; explore the local towns or take the free shuttle to other restaurants in the resort — Barbouni at The Romanos is a must. The restaurant’s beautiful ceiling, made from waves of fabric that flutter in the sea breeze, is reason to visit alone, but the mezze is also sublime.
Go there!
Rooms at the W Costa Navarino start from €356 per night with breakfast BOOK NOW. The nearest airport is Kalamata. Search for flights on Easyjet, Expedia, eDreams and Skyscanner.
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