Scrutinising the Hair-Growth Serum Boom
Is there any corner of the beauty industry murkier than that of hair growth? For decades, brands have convinced us to part with our cash for formulas that promise miraculous regrowth overnight, turning back the hands of time on bald patches and transforming frazzled fibres into something that’d earn you a starring role on a shampoo ad.
Since the Noughties, the hair-growth arena has been relatively quiet, with innovation failing to break through to the masses. But now, hair growth serums are popping back up, with specialist brands entering the market and beauty behemoths adding follicle-stimulating formulas to their rosters.
Do hair growth serums really work?
Like the influx of hair-growth shampoos, the best hair growth serums promise to make thinning strands look and feel thicker and denser, all while helping to create a better environment for faster, healthier hair growth. If you believe everything you see on Tiktok, you’re likely hoping there’s a hair-growth serum out there that’ll take your bob back to bum-grazing lengths in a matter of weeks – but as Consultant Dermatologist and Hair Specialist Dr Sharon Wong explains, it’s wise to approach the topic with a degree of scepticism.
'Healthy hair growth requires good nutritional support from the inside,” she says, meaning that if your diet and lifestyle aren’t optimal, it’s unlikely a topical serum alone will solve your hair-growth woes. ‘Our follicles are highly metabolic mini organs that use up a lot of energy. Maintaining a well-balanced diet, including the full spectrum of macro and micronutrients, is the best and most sustainable way of supporting healthy hair growth (and a healthy body in general). It's also worth noting that taking supplements in the absence of a deficiency does not promote hair growth.’
In terms of no-nos, Dr Wong advises quitting smoking and trying to find ways to relax and cope with stress. ‘Smoking has been shown in some studies to be associated with premature balding and greying of hair. In many people, stress is the trigger for hair loss, be that shedding or the onset of alopecia areata (an autoimmune hair loss condition).’However, that’s not to say the hair-growth industry is nothing more than a snake-oil situation: the best hair growth serums might not be miracle cures, but they can contribute towards a habitat where hair will thrive. (In fact, we’ve personally seen surprisingly good results with some of them - more on those below…)
But first: if your struggles with hair loss are affecting your self-esteem, we’d recommend booking a GP appointment before placing your trust (and funds) into an off-the-shelf serum. ‘The most effective way of regrowing thinning hair due to genetic hair loss or common balding is with medications that have been licensed for this purpose, like Minoxidil and Finasteride,’ says Dr Wong. 'Tips like eating healthily, minimising the use of heat and dyes and using hair serums are all well and good, but they won't make you regrow thinning hair overnight. They will, however, support the health of your hair fibres and help to optimise the environment for healthy hair growth.’
Hair growth serums: what to look for
So, what are the signs of a hair-growth serum with promise? Dr Wong recommends products containing peptides, or amino acids and conditioning agents like hyaluronic acid. ‘These have an aesthetic effect on the hair that’s already on your head,’ she says. 'They plump up the fibres and add volume to make fragile strands look and feel thicker.’
Some serums contain plant extracts such as caffeine, which a few studies have suggested might be helpful for hair growth. Dr Wong warns, though, that their potency is likely to be ‘significantly less’ than medications specifically licensed for hair growth.
Excitingly, a host of innovative new ingredients are coming to the fore right now. Chāmpo’s Pitta Hair Growth Serum uses red clover flower to regulate release of DHT, which is known as the hair-loss hormone, during the final (or shedding) phase of the hair growth cycle. A handful of scientific studies exist that support the ability of red clover to improve hair condition and growth, most notably in perimenopausal women and men with male pattern hair loss. Pea sprout extract is another one showing promise: a small study suggests it may be able to stimulate hair growth when applied topically.
So, when it comes to hair-growth serums, it’s not all doom and gloom: a well-formulated product, used in conjunction with the right lifestyle changes, could help you reap the regrowth rewards. Here, see the ones we’ve thoroughly tested and been impressed by this year…
The Best Hair-Growth Serums, Tried and Tested
Pitta Growth Serum
Blending Ayurvedic tradition with the measurability that today's clinical testing affords, Chāmpo's hair-growth serum is one really deserving of all its hype. The formula itself is lightweight and watery, and with nightly application the blend of caffeine, peptides and DHT-blocking red clover extract can deliver remarkable regrowth. We've tried it along sparse hairlines and can report: consistent use seriously pays off.
Key specifications
Size: 30ml
Silicone free: Yes
Vegan: Yes
Follicle Boost Hair Density Serum
This offering from vegan brand Monpure ranks high on our list of recommendations: when we tested it for a period of eight weeks consistently, we noticed speedier growth and reduced breakage.
Unusually, there's retinol in the formula, which is said to work to accelerate cell turnover on the scalp (just as it does on your face), resulting in unclogged follicles that are primed for optimal growth. Pumpkin seed extract acts as a DHA inhibitor to reduce hair shedding, while rosemary oil boosts circulation.
Key specifications
Size 50ml
Silicone free: Yes
Vegan: Yes
Hair Growth Serum
From the brand behind one of the leading lash growth serums, this scalp-focused formula employs pea sprout extract, which shows promise in preventing hair fall, as well as inflammation calming turmeric and antioxidant lemon. The brand recommends using it daily for 18 weeks, so patience is a prerequisite.
Key specifications
Size 50ml
Silicone free: Yes
Vegan: Yes
Anti-Hair Fall Scalp Serum
The key to growing longer locks lies in keeping your existing hairs happy, which is exactly what Dr Barbara Sturm's hair serum aims to do.
In testing, this vitamin B5 and camellia extract blend did indeed appear to strengthen strands, resulting in less breakage in damaged hair. The fact it's completely fragrance free will divide the crowd (some love the sensorial aspect of an essential-oil blend, while sensitive souls appreciate an allergen-free formula), but the lightweight texture and residue-free nature is sure to please us all.
Key specifications
Size 50ml
Silicone free: Yes
Vegan: Yes
Anti-Hair Loss Treatment
The name of Beauty Pie's hair-growth serum does raise an eyebrow or two amongst the ELLE beauty team: if you're experiencing acute hair loss, the solution lies in a trichologist or doctor's appointment, not a beauty product.
However, there's no denying that this thickening treatment (because that's what it really is) contains some promising ingredients. Redensyl™ is a plant-derived extract that has been shown to kick-start growth, while zinc and arginine promote a healthy scalp surface for hair to sprout from. It's also very fairly priced (and if you're not yet a Beauty Pie member, you can take advantage of the free two months on the site right now, and try it for £19).
Key specifications
Size 100ml
Silicone free: Yes
Vegan: Yes
Density Booster
Stateside brand Virtue takes hair density seriously: its Flourish line is designed to sit somewhere in-between the therapeutic scalp oils and science-laden prescription-only products on the market. The key product, this Density Booster contains a combination of keratins (the building blocks of strong strands) and signal peptides, which target those sleepy follicles and nurture new hair growth, right from the root.
Key specifications
Size 120ml
Silicone free: Yes
Vegan: No
Genesis Anti Hair-Fall Serum
Kérastase is a brand consistently at the forefront of hair innovation, and this jelly-textured growth serum is one of its best.
Strengthening the hair you have is the name of the game here, with vasodilator Aminexil to enhance blood flow to the follicles alongside invigorating ginger and anti-inflammatory edelweiss stem cells. For those prone to dry scalps, dandruff and chronically dry, weakened strands, this one's a winner.
Key specifications
Size 90ml
Silicone free: Yes
Vegan: No
Invati Ultra Advanced™ Revitalizing Scalp Serum
Aveda's fan-favourite Invati collection gains a supercharged new member this month. The Ultra Advanced scalp serum is designed to optimise the condition of your skin for maximum hair growth, feeding follicles exactly what they need to do their best work. Nourishing and circulation-boosting plant extracts are cocktailed together to work in unison, boosting the appearance of volume and density from the first use. A brilliant choice for those with flat and fine lengths that lack impact.
Key specifications
Size 150ml
Silicone free: Yes
Vegan: Yes
Supa Thick
Long loved (but recently redesigned), The Nue Co's Supa Thick is one to place your trust in. The slightly creamy serum, which is applied via a helpful precision nozzle, works wonders on dry scalps and sluggish follicles, using pre and probiotics to balance the biome, rosemary oil to boost circulation, and larixwood extract, which is said to prolong the hair's anagen, or growth, phase. There's an invigorating botanical smell, and the serum sinks in effortlessly without leaving behind an oily residue.
Key specifications
Size 100ml
Silicone free: Yes
Vegan: Yes
Pre-Wash Strengthening Treatment Hair Oil
Fable & Mane's hair oil is another one that calls on Indian tradition to make hair look its very best. A pre-wash treatment oil, it's made using traditional Ayurvedic ingredients believed to encourage hair health, including amla, ashwagandha and dashmool herbs. A great one for dry scalps and strands alike, with a beautiful scent to boot.
Key specifications
Size 55ml
Silicone free: Yes
Vegan: Yes
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