The nine jumper styles every woman needs this winter
With the big freeze in full swing, one upside is that it’s finally jumper season. “This is the year that everyone is buying knit,” says Lucy Kudhail, buying manager at Fenwick, where she says sales have been big in the last few weeks. “It feels like everyone is really up for winter now.”
If the options seem endless, that’s because they are. Lately there has been a huge explosion in knitwear and the global market is estimated to be worth $721.81 billion. Alongside the big fashion houses and the high street brands that are churning out options, take time to consider independent knitwear brands – many British based, with British wool and knitters – that are really pushing us to consider what it is we want from our knits.
“Quality really shows, especially in knitwear. Investing a little more on a high-quality knit will pay off over time,” says Ruth Alice Rands, founder of the British brand Herd. “The feel of the wool against the skin, how it holds its shape over time and how it looks after washing are all vastly improved with natural fibres and high-quality finishing.” They might be expensive up front, but with love and care they can last a lifetime.
After considering wool quality, where it’s made and how much you want to spend, there are nine key styles that look good in any wardrobe. Here are what our experts suggest.
The modern Fair Isle
Fair Isle sweaters have a beloved place in the history of knitwear – and never go out of style. The Fleetwood by Herd has celebrity fans including Arizona Muse and Charlotte Tilbury. Rands says it offers a “modern design perspective on the heritage Fair Isle style, using the layered landscape of the north of England – the fells and dales, drystone walls, windswept trees and spring trickling down from the sources.” The whole jumper is made within a 150-mile radius in the north of England, using 100% Bluefaced Leicester wool, with buttons made from nuts and labels from 100% cotton, meaning the whole piece is circular.
Fleetwood jumper in moss with ecru and peat, £495, Herd
Albaray has a cosy cardigan, made from lambswool, in a Fair Isle-style design and John Lewis has its take in a wool blend in navy or brown – either perfect for layering over shirts and under coats.
Fair Isle cardigan, £79, Albaray; Fair Isle wool blend knit jumper, £49, John Lewis
The prim cardi
A prim cardi has been around for decades, but a great modern cut takes it from a retro classic to a piece you can wear with jeans or leather trousers, or a skirt or dress to keep it looking classic. &Daughter’s best-selling Ada crewneck cardigan is “inspired by a traditional ‘lady’s cardigan’ but we spent a lot of time working on the proportions to give it a modern sensibility,” explains founder Buffy Reid. She says customers now use it “in place of a jacket as an everyday layering piece”.
Ada crewneck cardigan, £350, &Daughter
Bevan boucle cardigan, £69, Monsoon
Tilda Swinton is a fan of the shape – she designed a piece for indie knit brand Hades to create a design, emblazoned with her name, and met the craftspeople at the Scottish factory where the pieces were spun and knitted. On the high street, Jigsaw has a luxurious cashmere crew neck while Monsoon has a cosy green boucle.
The Tilda Cardigan, £300, Tilda Swinton x Hades; Halo cashmere cardigan, £250, Jigsaw
The sleeveless vest
How did we dress before sleeveless vests came along? I’ve personally worn my Wyre vest by Herd all summer with a floaty skirt (and layered it over shirts in winter). “The growing success of the knitted vest lies in its versatility, especially with unpredictable weather,” agrees David Telfer, creative director at Sunspel. He adds that they are good for layering “where a jumper might feel too bulky” as well as looking “effortless” when worn alone. Try the brand’s Mohair silk vest, which comes in three colours.
Wyre vest in loam, £195, Herd
Mohair silk vest, £234 (reduced from £335), Sunspel
Kanon recycled wool knitted vest, £140, Beaumont Organic
For a less pricey take, Beaumont Organic has a lovely slouchy vest which comes in deliciously autumnal shades of paprika and olive, Jigsaw has a jolly red vest and Joules has more subtle navy and cream version.
Perdi knitted tank, £130, Jigsaw; Patterned knitted vest, £54.95, Joules
The collared jumper
A collared jumper adds a degree of formality to an outfit – while remaining soft. “It nods to tailoring details and lends itself to smarter and more delicate silhouettes, or allows you to layer,” says Jess Mcguire-Dudley, deputy managing director at John Smedley. The brand’s Jill polo shirt looks casual yet smart, as does Jean and Temple’s collared silk and cashmere polo, which hangs loose, yet still gives a slightly defined waistline. Cos has a similar style in merino wool, while Barbour’s Noelle boxy cardigan could serve as an elegant blazer-replacement, but equally could be layered under a knit. The digital creator Liv Madeline recommends teaming it with a white, higher neck t-shirt (from Uniqlo) “to break up the black and brighten the face.”
Sea island cotton polo shirt, £180, John Smedley; Silk & cashmere polo jumper, £145, Jean & Temple
Merino wool polo shirt, £85, Cos; Noelle cardigan, £109, Barbour
The v-neck
There are some people who don’t feel a v-neck suits them; which is why Navygrey founder Rachel Carvell-Spedding designed her version, The Authentic V, made from 100% Scottish-spun wool – washed, spun and dyed on the banks of Loch Leven, Scotland. She says the fit of the jumper has “a tailored approach” thanks to the thickness of the wool and “just off the shoulder, but not too dropped, seam positioning”. In short, she says, it’s a V for people who never would usually wear a V.” Boden has a more classic V-neck, ideal for layering over shirts (£130; boden.co.uk), while Hush has a big slouchy number (£100; hush-uk.com).
The authentic V, £295, Navygrey
Eva Cashmere V-neck jumper, £110.50 (reduced from £130), Boden; Lacey V-neck alpaca blend jumper, £100, Hush
The statement knit
While you definitely want to avoid a tacky Christmas jumper, a beautiful statement knit can bring joy. “I have always loved a statement knit. For me, they are the best way to feel special whilst also being unbelievably comfortable,” says Hannah Weiland, founder of Shrimps. “I love how quickly a beautiful knit can make your outfit feel interesting.” For bold colours, try Shrimps’ bubblegum pink cardie, or the vibey brand Farm Rio, which draws on big bright patterns and brings some joyful Brazilian soul.
Minnie caridgan, £350, Shrimps
Mixed mushrooms knit cardigan, £220, Farm Rio
Another way to make a statement is with sparkles – but again, you have to work hard to stay on the right side of tasteful (most really look terrible). Rixo also has a very tasteful embellished pointelle-knit cardigan – with a demure collar and pearl buttons – that will liven up a look.
Embellished cardigan, £245, Rixo
The roll neck
A roll neck provides an extra layer of protection against the elements, as well as some structure to the top half of your outfit. Mimmo Studios has this beautiful lambswool jumper made in Scotland with Scottish wool that peeps nicely out from under a jacket. Irish brand Moss & Cable have a luxuriously thick merino lambswool Aran, designed to be tucked or left loose for a more casual feel.
The turtleneck lambswool Aran, £280, Moss + Cable
If you’re stuck in a black or navy rut, Wiggy Kit founder Wiggy Hindmarch recommends branching out to brown – more flattering on most skin types (she has her own luxurious take). “The perfect shade of brown is so much more flattering and less harsh than a black, especially when it’s a high neck jumper, as it really is so much kinder against your face,” she says. She recommends teaming with animal print or denim – or silk palazzo pants or sequins for parties.
Scottish lambswool tango in Japan jumper, £195, Mimmo Studios; Inside out turtleneck, £375, Wiggy Kit
A great cashmere
Pulling on a great cashmere jumper is like having a luxurious hug: it’s warm, comforting and makes you feel great – which is exactly what we all need right now. I’m in love with new-to-me brand Kiltane, spun in Scotland. Its Cramond cashmere roll neck jumper is roomy and luxurious, but not too long, providing a flattering shape (and doubling up as your luxurious roll neck. For a classic shape with a fun diamond design, Shrimps has just launched a collaboration with Reformation, meanwhile sustainable brand ASKET has a relaxed cashmere rollneck made from Italian 97% recycled cashmere (£180; asket.com). For the best array of colours, look to Rise and Fall, where the range spans from chic neutrals to offbeat brights.
Cramond cahsmere roll neck jumper, £229, Kiltane; Women’s finest cashmere mid-weight crew neck jumper, £176 (reduced from £220), Rise & Fall
Diamond cashmere turtleneck, £348, Reformation
The crew neck
A classic crew neck needs to be part of any wardrobe: a lightweight knit can be layered under cardigans or vests, and a thicker version over shirts. Anya Hindmarch is about to launch a new collaboration with Uniqlo that features an excellent merino crewneck. For thicker styles, look to the independent British brands, such as Elwin Studio and its best-selling Raye sweater (made with Herd wool) which takes heritage design details, such as detailing at the seams inspired by English gansey jumpers, but updates the fit. Fancy a little lift? The stylist and presenter Zeena Shah recommends choosing a red knit (Hindmarch’s Uniqlo collection has a great one). “It’s a colour that suits everyone, it really brightens the face. And when you wear it, it just lifts your spirits, which is what you need at this time of year.
100% merino crew neck jumper, £34.90, Uniqlo; Raye sweater ecru, £285, Elwin
