A Guide to Maintaining Curly Hair (for Low Maintenance Men)
People with curly hair will often see it as a blessing and a curse.
On one hand, you’ve got these locks that swerve and twirl to their own desire, exuding the cherub-like air that stars like Timothée Chalamet, Jeremy Allen White and Dev Patel possess.
But with that comes the responsibility of taming their independent and unruly nature, which, when they're not cooperating, can have you looking more like Sideshow Bob than an A-list actor.
This is amplified when you’re the type of guy whose grooming routine consists of a slab of moisturiser after splashing your face with water. When you don’t have a hairstylist on speed dial – how else do the aforementioned celebs look so good at all times? – the task of styling your curls may be a daunting one.
But keeping them under control is relatively easy if you get yourself into a routine of doing so. That entails learning about your curl type, what haircut is best for it, the right products to use and then… doing it.
Thankfully, we’ve done the bulk of the work by crafting a curly-hair guide specifically for those who prefer a low maintenance beauty routine. All you have to do is put it into action.
How Does Taking Care Of Curly Hair Differ From Other Hair Types?
Pretty much anyone that’s got a bit of kink in their hair will notice that their locks are generally drier than those with straight strands, that’s because curly hair is more porous, altering its ability to absorb and maintain moisture.
And that’s amplified when you consider the large spectrum of curly hair. That’s why knowing your curl type is more important than think.
Identifying your curl type
There are three main types of curls, explains Matt Hughes, a barber at Idris.
“You have wavy hair, which is the lightest of the curl and more of a 'wave' opposed to a full curl. Curly hair consists of loose curls, springy ringlets and tighter corkscrews. Then finally, the tightest of them all would be coily [Afro-textured] hair; a much rounder, springier hair texture.”
“Within each of these there are three more distinct curl types named a, b and c (so 2a, 2b, 2c, 3a, 3b etc.),” adds Callum McDonald, co-founder of Time. “Basically, the higher the number and subsequent letter, the tighter the curl. For example, 2a is a soft wave whereas 4c is tightly coiled.”
“To identify what type of curl you have you can take out a few strands when your hair is wet and lay them on a flat surface and watch them dry,” says Corey Hadley from Supply91. “You can then examine them for the curl pattern, curl diameter and see any mixed patterns.”
But, in the simplest terms, what curl type is defined as what? “Wavy hair tends to sit in more of an S shape with soft bends,” says Hughes. “Curly hair is more defined and retains more of a bounce. Coily curls are much tighter and shrink more as they dry.”
How To Care For Curly Hair To Achieve Healthy Looking Locks
Now you know what type of springs you have atop of your head, you need to know how best to care for them. Sadly, it doesn’t matter how expensive or industry-recommended your hair products are, if your hair isn’t in its best form, those products aren’t going to perform. Think about it as making sure you have secure foundations to build from; doing these tips before you invest in a new haircare routine is going to vastly improve your curls in the long run.
Chose the right haircut
There are some things worth noting when deciding what haircut to get – and yes, your curl type does play into that.
“With wavy hair, keep layers long to retain some of its movement. Avoid cutting into the S but ask for some of the bulk to be removed to let hair move naturally,” says Hughes.
“With curly and coily hair, it depends on how short you want the back and sides as its always important to create balance in the hair. Before whipping the clippers out, remember that the shorter you go, the more likely that your hair will want to sit up. Using the hair’s weight is key for effortless styling and keeping movement. Get plenty of images of what you like and take your time with the barber, making sure you discuss profile shape and, really importantly, how it will grow out.”
With any haircut, curly or not, there are some external factors to consider, says McDonald.
“You’ll need to give thought about your lifestyle: how much time you’re willing to allow for styling, what you do that effects your hair (gym, swimming, cycling etc.), what you do for work, do you wear glasses or hats?
Then there’s your face and head shape to consider. A blunt fringe won’t complement a rounder face but may look great on those with angular faces or features.”
Only brush your hair when its wet
You probably already know what happens if you brush your curly hair, but for those who don’t, don’t ruin your day by doing so. No matter what curl type, those perfectly formed kinks are going to separate into a voluminous, frizz-full cloud around your head. Unless you like the look of a cartoon character whose been electrocuted, then we wouldn’t recommend.
There are more than aesthetic reasons as to why you shouldn’t brush curly hair when its dry.
“If you stick a brush through it in this state then you risk breaking the hairs, thus causing split ends, damage and enough frizz to give Screech from ‘Saved By The Bell’ a run for his money,” says McDonald.
“Wet hair is more elastic and easier to detangle without disrupting the curl pattern,” adds Hadley, suggesting this is the best time remove any knots.
How you dry your hair will affect your curls
This is the same for straight hair, but those with curls will likely see the difference more obviously.
Applying heat to your hair can put it at risk of damage, which for a naturally drier hair type will cause a lot more frizz and fly aways. That isn’t to say that you shouldn’t think about pulling out a hair dryer, just make sure to add a diffuser onto it before doing so.
A diffuser is an external nozzle that helps diffuse (surprise!) air so that it’s not so concentrated on the strands.
“It basically gives a more natural finish because there’s no concentrated jet of air pushing it in a specific direction,” McDonald says about using a diffuser. “And, because the area covered is wider, you’ll get less damage to specific spots that would otherwise get too much heat. Win-win.”
That being said, there’s nothing wrong with air drying your hair. “Air drying is the gentlest method and helps maintain the natural curl pattern with minimal frizz,” says Hadley.” Although it can take a long time and lead to less volume.”
Remember, if you do opt for a diffuser, make sure to spritz your curls with some heat protectant spray – find our favourites further down below.
Curly Hair Routine
Shampoo
While this is a vital product for cleansing the hair of the products you’ll be putting into it (more on that later) it can also be detrimental to curly hair; the wrong ones will strip the already dry strands of essential nutrients.
“Your going to want something sulphate-free,” says Hughes. “Sulphates will strip the natural moisture out of the hair, taking way from your curls. A few active ingredients to look for are aloe vera, shea butter and glycerin; they’re all highly moisturising.”
Conditioner
The clue is in the name. Conditioner is going to help bring back moisture in the hair that could have been removed by shampoo.
“Look for conditioners that moisturise and smooth hair, with ingredients like shea butter and avocado oil,” says Hadley. “It should provide enough moisture to help detangle the hair and avoid causing breakage. Curly hair will benefit most from a balance of protein to keep the hair strong and moisture to keep it hydrated, so a conditioner that also repairs protein is beneficial.”
Pre-stylers
“Pre-stylers are used to prepare the hair for styling and the aim is to improve the condition, health and texture of hair,” explains McDonald. “For curly hair these could be leave-in conditioners, balms or serums depending on the length and density of your strands.”
A leave-in conditioner is a great product to start with if you have curly or coily hair, to add a bit of needed moisture, but a curl cream or mousse is essential for any curl type to define the twirls you have. It’ll also lock in moisture too, which is why it’s probably unnecessary for wavy hair to also use a leave-in conditioner.
Different curl types will react to different pre-stylers; coil textures need more moisture than wavy hair, so fare better with curl cream over a curl mousse which would be better suited to the latter. Thick hair reacts better to products with denser viscosity, which will likely weigh fine curls down.
Pre-styling products should always be applied while the hair is still wet for the best results.
Finishing products
What products you use will also depend on your curl type.
“Finishing products help to give the hair some added va-va-voom in terms of texture, direction and hold,” says McDonald. “If you prefer to wear your curly hair long or very natural then you may be able to skip this part, if not then styling pastes or pomades should be the order of the day.”
If your locks are long, a few drops of hair oil gently applied to the ends will give them shine and some added moisture (as we’ve harked on about, finer, wavy hair won’t need as much as a 4a textures).
A specific curly hair gel will also help tighter ringlets keep their shape. A pea-sized amount works for shorter styles – you risk your hair looking and feeling crunchy if you add too much – while longer ‘dos can handle a bit more.
Best Products and Tools for Curly Hair
Silk Pillowcase
Hadley notes that if you want your curls to be looking equally as bouncy, a silk or satin pillowcase will certainly help: “They can reduce friction and help maintain curl definition and moisture.”
Hairdryer with a diffuser
Comb
Wide-toothed combs will help detangle your hair without aggravating the strands, which could cause them to frizz when they’re dry.
You Might Also Like
