Jacquemus Celebrates 15 Years With an Italian Vacation

Ana Colón

10 June 2024 at 1:02 pm·4-min read

Jacquemus is celebrating 15 years of shaping wardrobe aspirations across the world like only he can: with a scenic runway show in Capri, Italy that'll end up on countless mood boards for 2025 vacations.

As always, the backdrop is as much a part of the collection as the clothes themselves. Models walked out onto the tiled roof of Capri's Casa Malaparte, an Italian modernist structure that "captivated [the designer's] imagination 15 years ago as he launched his brand," according to a press release. "The perseverance in craftsmanship, design precision, attention to materials and silhouette development reflect the setting. Every step, upward; an indescribable honor made real."

The brand describes the "La Casa" collection as "a panoramic exploration of essential forms: minimalist geometries, classical Greek draping — radically transcribed, the purest possible." The pieces marry "architecture shape" with "absolute lightness and sensuality," it continues, emphasizing silhouette through sharp cuts, precise paneling and neatly drawn lines, rendered in flowing, lightweight jersey and cotton that fulfill the out-of-office wardrobe fantasy.

It's not a retrospective, but Jacquemus does tend to iterate. (And why wouldn't he? His designs speak more to a sensibility than a trend, and he pulls from the same evergreen sources of inspiration.) Silhouette continues to be a big focus, explored through contrasting methods — the brand both follows the natural curvature of the body (via sleeveless draped and paneled suede maxis, high square-necked camis with low-slung knee-length skirts) and draws new forms onto the body (exaggerated collars that extend past the shoulder, strapless peplum tops that jut out over skirts, trousers that balloon into a rounded leg shape). The palette is made up of the designer's preferred neutrals (black, white, khaki, pale yellow) with flashes of Capri blue, bright red and warm sage that evoke the season. There's also a touch of zebra print — a rare sighting in a Jacquemus collection.

Accessories are always a big point of emphasis (Jacquemus is a sharp merchandiser, as we know by the Chiquito takeover), and this season the brand introduces two bags — a folded clutch called "La Spiaggia" (Italian for "the beach") and a Jacquemus-ified bucket style dubbed "Le Bombola." Footwear-wise, it continues to bet big on its stacked concept, this time in ballerinas, as well as espadrilles and moccasins.

The brand's strength lies in being able to create a strong, memorable, lasting image — one that inspires as much as it stokes desire. Every single element of the show was considered, from where the model turned to maximize the drama of the scenery, to the slicked deep side part that evokes a nostalgic image of starlets on holiday. It also helps that the designer's able to bring out star power like few can, having Bella Hadid and Dua Lipa debut looks from the collection ahead of the show and Jennie Kim close his milestone runway.

See every single look from Jacquemus's "La Casa" runway in Capri below.