The fashion formula to refresh your summer look – without buying anything new
One of this summer’s biggest trends is also one of the simplest, because you may not need anything new to make it work – in fact, you’re likely to have all the necessary components already in your wardrobe. Why? Because this isn’t really a trend at all, but a way of styling the pieces you already have to make them look fresh, modern and right for the new season.
Allison Bornstein, stylist and author of Wear It Well, specialises in easy-to-follow “fashion formulas”. Last year, she coined the famous “Wrong Shoe Theory” that decreed a slightly off-kilter pair of shoes would make an outfit sing; she’s the reason floral dresses with sporty trainers took off, ditto slouchy suit trousers with flip-flops. Her “Three Word Method” – the idea that we should define our personal style in three words, then shop and dress accordingly – has been the route to streamlined capsule wardrobes up and down the country.
One of Bornstein’s latest theories is just as simple: Less Clothes=More Bag. The equation may sound confusing at first, but it’s essentially just about playing with proportions to add dimension to your outfit. “During the summer when it’s harder to layer, what can we do to add contrast to our look? An oversized bag is like the accessory version of an overcoat,” she explains. “When we rely on jackets and jumpers during the cooler months we can feel uninspired by our summer wardrobe, because there are fewer ways to layer and mix it up. A great way to add interest is through accessories.”
So if you’ve brought out your usual summer pieces only to feel that they’re looking tired and (whisper it) a bit dull, it may not be new clothes you need – but a new styling perspective.
A white linen shirt and delicate leather flip flops look great with a pair of denim shorts (the tailored Bermuda styles on the market right now are particularly flattering, with Whistles taking the crown for this structured pair with smart pockets). Filippa K’s capacious large shoulder bag in butter-hued leather is the ideal, unexpected finishing touch. “It has a classic shape that adds refinement to a range of silhouettes, so you can wear it to balance summer looks,” says Anna Teurnell, creative lead at the brand.
Cotton blouse, £77, Arket; Denim shorts, £79, Whistles; Leather sandals, £99.95, Massimo Dutti; Sterling silver earrings, £110, Otiumberg; Leather bag, £550, Filippa K
The most lust-worthy holdall comes courtesy of The Row, whose sleeper hit Margaux 17 continuously sells out, despite its hefty price tag (if you’ve got your heart set on one, Vestiaire Collective normally has a good second-hand range). More affordable versions come by way of Little Liffner – try the Sprout tote, which is the definition of classic-with-a-twist – and Russell & Bromley, where the Everyday Shopper is upmarket enough to pass as designer.
In terms of colour and texture, go for soft and pliable materials in shades of tan and chocolate, says stylist Chloe Street. “Suede, logo-less and ludicrously capacious is the brief for SS24,” she explains. “Khaite’s medium Lotus tote would look good with a little white crochet dress – Mango has a cute, long-sleeved micro mini I’ve got my eye on – and affords plenty of space for a day’s worth of clobber.”
Crochet dress, £225, ME+EM; Leather sandals, £356, Hereu; Sunglasses, £165, Jimmy Fairly; Suede bag, £488, Little Liffner
If you dare not raise your hemline too high, this isn’t a look that requires the baring of flesh to work well. Slightly sheer fabrics, such as organza and broderie anglaise, have the same effect when paired with a huge bag – look to Gucci’s latest resort show for inspiration. Meanwhile, a pair of linen trousers with a matching, fitted waistcoat is contemporary and versatile, with either nothing or a white tee underneath. Teamed with a pair of minimal, black leather sandals (try Jigsaw’s asymmetrical style) and a large tote, this would be a stylish – and eminently practical – office look.
Waistcoat, £125 and trousers, £125, Aligne; Leather sandals, £110, Jigsaw; Gold plated bracelet, £195, Tilly Sveaas; Leather bag, £295, Russell & Bromley
Reformation’s Patrizia Bowling Bag has plenty of space and inner pockets, making it useful as well as elegant. “It’s one of our top selling bags, particularly in classic black,” says Joni Pangsaeng, the brand’s senior director of design and merchandising. “The mini bag was popular for so long that we are now seeing the pendulum swing in the opposite direction. Overall, there has been a shift towards more casual, effortless dressing. Mini bags feel party-ready, whereas an oversized bag is a subtle outfit shake-up that’s inherently laid back, yet chic.”
But don’t relegate anything that wouldn’t fit the kitchen sink to the back of your cupboard just yet. Big bags look great with a skimpier or more streamlined outfit, but something smaller (think Strathberry’s Crescent Basket, or the Le Teckel from Alaïa) looks just right with wide-leg denim and an oversized trench.
“Expressive looks are all about tension,” says Bornstein. “We never want to feel like we are just one thing, or playing into one aesthetic.” So try looking at your favourite pieces with a fresh eye this summer: an unexpected pairing here and a little proportion play there is the easiest way to bring your wardrobe bang up to date.
