FYI, bad hair days are more to do with your scalp than anything else
Sure, it’s not the jazziest of topics. Not one you might bring up in small talk or offer to the person sitting next to you at dinner. Ironically, though, it’s something more and more of us are thinking about, albeit usually privately. I’m talking, of course, about having a healthy scalp. A grooming ritual that’s snowballed since the pandemic, scalp health is now part and parcel of a robust haircare routine. There are scalp exfoliators, scrubs, masks and mists and the tools to help stimulate blood flow are more technical than ever. There are even LED masks designed specifically for your scalp. Think of a glowing astronaut helmet and you won’t be far off.
The health of your scalp can contribute to everything from hair growth to the number of hairs shed per day. A healthy scalp will lose between 50 to 100 hairs a day, any more than that and you start to approach hair loss, shedding and thinning. Given that in 2022 it was estimated that over 21 million women suffer from alopecia or hair loss globally, it makes sense to be concerned with preserving and improving the health of the skin on top of your head.
Your healthy scalp guide: how to look after your scalp and care for your hair
Consider this your cheat sheet to better scalp health, including the signs to look out for when your scalp is unhappy.
Why does getting a healthy scalp matter?
We know now that it’s important to take our skincare routines down the neck and onto our décolleté. It’s all skin – just because something’s labelled a face cream doesn’t mean it can’t work on the skin adjacent to your face, too. Well, think of the scalp as similar. Yes, it’s on top of your head and covered in hair follicles but it’s still skin.
‘The scalp is the bedrock for the hair follicle, and if it is not in good condition the chances of you experiencing problems with hair growth and hair health increase significantly,’ explains Philip Kingsley consultant trichologist and brand president Anabel Kingsley. ‘In fact, research has proven that a flaky, itchy scalp can cause and/or worsen hair loss in certain individuals.’
How do you know if your scalp is healthy?
It comes down to a few things, some of which are visible and some which aren’t. If your scalp is healthy, then it’s likely that there won’t be any visible flakes, dry patches or spots of inflammation and soreness.
‘A healthy scalp has clean, open pores with good blood flow,’ says Kingsley. ‘It’s essential that the hair follicles and scalp are clear and clean and the microbiome is in harmony with a good balance of beneficial bacteria. A healthy scalp equals healthy hair.’
Microbiome? Like in the gut? Why, yes. Your skin has a natural microbiome (that’s the name for the array of microbes that naturally live on top and inside of it) and ensuring that there’s the right balance of good and bad bacteria is crucial. ‘The microbiome is not just about your gut – the same is true for your skin, including your scalp. Your scalp is made up of many different microorganisms.
'When opportunistic (or bad) scalp microorganisms start to outnumber the beneficial (or good) ones, it can lead to flaking, itching and irritation,’ explains Judy Nguyen, a product development chemist at hair brand Living Proof. 'Rebalancing the population and better supporting the beneficial set of microorganisms is the key to lasting relief.'
If you suspect that your scalp is unhappy and isn’t responding to the treatments or methods you’re trying, it’s best to seek out professional help. A trichologist will be able to look at your scalp using a magnifying camera and help identify what’s going on up there. Alternatively, your GP is never a bad port of call.
Is a dry scalp the same as having dandruff?
'While both dry scalp and dandruff can make your scalp itchy and irritated and can cause visible flaking, it's important to note that they are very different conditions,' explains Nguyen. 'Dandruff is a result of excess oil build-up and contracting a fungal infection, which triggers dead skin cells to build up and shed. It can also leave your hair looking greasy. A key symptom is oily, large flakes that are yellow or white. Dandruff is caused by overacting fungus, hormones, and stress.’ Nguyen recommends seeing a doctor if you suspect you might have dandruff.
'If you have dry, small flakes that are white, then it’s likely a dry scalp (a lack of moisture on your scalp). It can be triggered by cold, dry air, excessive washing and dehydration and can often make your scalp feel tight.
Other than using a targeted scalp product, what else can I do to support my scalp health?
We know we sound like a broken record but stress management is key to everything, from your blood pressure and mental health to how happy (or unhappy) your skin and scalp are. It’s not the entire story, that’s a given, but it’s an important piece of the puzzle.
‘Stress can affect hormone levels which can disrupt the scalp’s microbiome,’ says Nguyen. ‘Diet can also have an effect, so try to include adequate amounts of protein, vitamin B, zinc and iron in your diet,’ she recommends. Hard water, something many of us are subject to, can also dry out the scalp and lead to tightness and dryness. Fortunately, there are brands like Hello Klean and Act + Acre that are creating products specifically designed to solve this issue. Keep scrolling for our top scalp care picks.
Shop our healthy scalp essentials
Living Proof Scalp Care Dry Scalp Treatment
Designed to be left on the scalp, this treatment helps to stop the tight, dry irritation that happens when your scalp’s microbiome gets out of whack. It has hyaluronic acid for a burst of hydration (HA draws moisture towards it) and vitamin B3 for long-lasting relief.
Act + Acre Microbiome Cooling Scalp Serum
When the itch is too much to ignore, this serum (with a handy dropper) uses a blend of grape, ginger and frankincense to reduce inflammation and irritation and regulate the fungal growth that can cause flakes and other issues.
Briogeo Scalp Revival Charcoal and Tea Tree Buildup Detox Spray
Over time, shampoo, conditioner, styling products and general dirt and oil can build up on the scalp. This can cause clogged hair follicles and, in extreme cases, hair loss. This spray contains three types of acids – BHAs, AHAs and PHAs – to exfoliate the top layer of skin and slough off dead skin cells.
Ceremonia Papaya Scalp Scrub
Once a week or once every other week, swap your shampoo for a scalp scrub. This one is whipped and luxurious but works hard at ridding your scalp of build-up. If you double-shampoo, use the scrub as your first cleanse.
Hello Klean Clarifying Scalp Soak
Apple cider vinegar and phytic acid combine in this clever clarifying scalp treatment, efficiently breaking down the gunk (oils, dirt, etc) that covers the scalp. But, don't think it's just taking away – fermented rice water and tamanu oil work at putting moisture back into the scalp, leaving you perfectly balanced up top.
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