Zankov Fall 2025: Factory Girls With ‘Feeling’
Whether it’s economic uncertainty, unease about the new presidential administration or simply boredom over “quiet luxury,” New York’s emerging talents are stoking a provocative attitude this season. But In the case of Henry Zankov, the word to use is “subversive.”
During his Hudson Yards presentation, the designer expressed it’s a trait he very much admires in others and something he wished to manifest through clothes. “That’s a form of resistance,” he explained. And it would be hard not to resist this lineup, the most confident yet after five years in business.
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Fall began as a continuation from spring. If then Zankov was listening to ‘90s grunge a la Kim Gordon, this time he plugged into the avant-garde rock stylings of Nico from the ‘60s. A former muse to Andy Warhol, she and others, like Candy Darling and Edie Sedgwick, pushed boundaries in their art (and wardrobes) during a time of unprecedented political and social change.
The first look, an enveloping green jacquard loden coat and miniskirt studded with iridescent paillettes worn over black stockings, was pure Sedgwick, while the creased trousers in gray and haphazardly tied neck scarves that followed captured Nico’s androgynous cool. That the models were sporting the signature bangs and doll-like lashes of both only helped bring these factory girls to life.
Still, Zankov said he never wants to be too literal when working with references. “For me, it’s more about the feeling of something.” And the feeling he captured here layered the swingy optimism of Mod with the satiric wink of Pop Art, like wearing Warhol.
Oversized sweaters were overly so, one with explosive polka-dots. Colors like violet, bubblegum and turquoise were brazenly thrown together. There was gold knitted tinsel on top of gold knitted tinsel. Argyles against stripes. Perforations. Car-wash hems. Sheer, shag and shine.
It’s the things that shouldn’t go together, but did. The feeling of craft woven through each piece that felt most subversive in this current fashion environment driven by mass manufacturing and TikTok “core” trends. Because, to borrow Zankov’s phrasing, what’s the point of getting dressed if not to feel something?
Launch Gallery: Zankov Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection
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