The Witchery hotel review: A decedent gothic romance in Edinburgh

If The Witchery’s walls could talk, they would sing a song of the ages. It offers an all-encompassing experience in the heart of Edinburgh’s Old Town for those who dream with their eyes wide open, appreciate rich cultural history, and exquisite attention to detail.

This slice of 16th-century architecture was built in 1595 for merchant Thomas Lowthian and has just celebrated its 45th-anniversary under the ownership of Scotland’s best-known hotelier-restauranteur, James Thompson OBE. He is a man whose exuberant and creative spirit can be felt throughout every corner of The Witchery.

Nestled just a sweep away from the world-famous 11th-century Edinburgh Castle, the beautifully lit outer stone walls give only a glimpse into the magic that awaits behind them.

We are greeted by towering arched gothic windows and gloriously autumnal outer décor consisting of pumpkins, low lights and candles. The entrance itself is a hot spot for curious tourists passing by.

The often-lost art of fine hospitality is anything but at The Witchery. Once inside, we are met by one of the many impeccably trained members of staff, who ensured that our luggage was placed into our suite for us while we were given a tour of the buildings and handed our room key. I must highlight the room key, since key cards don’t exist at The Witchery – our old-fashioned key was a stunning piece of bronze that looked plucked straight out of a fairytale.

Of the nine unique suites available, we had the delight of residing in the Heriot Suite. A set of rooms so sumptuous that 24 hours wasn’t enough to explore every fine detail. It gains its name from its view of the famous George Heriot’s School, of which it faces. Many members of the team attended the school as children, and it is thought to be the place that inspired Hogwarts. Many little nods to that are subtly dotted around The Witchery such as the restaurant menus – more of that in a moment…

The Heriot Suite exudes opulence, from multiple cast iron chandeliers to solid oak panels taken from St Giles’ Cathedral, gothic fixtures and a mirrored chapel-like bathroom walls, topped off with a roll top bath fit for a queen or king…or both. She’s liberal and has plenty of room for all.

It is almost impossible to do the Heriot Suite justice with words. The room could not be replicated – it is a complete one off and totally stole my heart.

After a delightful tour of the hotel, our guide answers my many questions, such as “Which spirits dwell in our suite?” and “What’s the Gaelic festival Samhain like here?” while serving us a glass of champagne. I am humoured, surprisingly. Then we are left to get ready for our evening meal.

We are treated to a three-course dining experience in ‘The Secret Garden’, one of The Witchery’s two dining rooms that opened in the early 1990s, allowing both alfresco and indoor dining options. Cam, our server for the evening, graciously takes my hand and guides me down the stairs to our table.

Fresh flowers and flickering candles set the scene as we read our menus with delight. The menu is the creation of Chef Douglas Roberts, who is quoted as “embracing the richness of Scotland’s natural larder” and that he does beautifully paying homage to the country’s rich tapestry. The physical menu itself is beautifully designed by the illustrator of the Harry Potter series, a stunning attention to detail that adds further sparkle.

The food at The Witchery is best described as indulgence – a perfect mixture of flavour and texture. I was concerned about my partner as they are vegan, and we always say when travelling to classic and historic places that not every chef caters for vegans. Douglas Roberts, however, does. And he doesn’t take the easy way out. While there was only one choice from each course for my partner, they were utterly blown away with the effort put into the dish. No cop-out classics made by simply removing meat from a standard dish. All options were beautifully balanced, in season and presented with excellence.

I am not a vegan but opted for the vegan starter of fresh tomatoes, as it sounded delicious (and was). For my main course I had beef with wild mushrooms, and for dessert, I had a pistachio delight – a dessert that will live long in my memory.

After dinner, we enjoy a glorious bottle of champagne sent up to our room to enjoy as a night cap. Between sips we browse the pages of the guest book, which has the names of world-famous actors, musicians and creatives. Lifetimes have graced the pages: great loves spanning decades, engagements kept, promises of returns, and a whirlwind of romances danced throughout. The pages are full of passion, artists’ doodles and poets’ ditties from across the world. I’d buy a copy if it were ethical. One review which stood out to me was written in runes. If magic doesn’t exist inside those walls, I’m unsure where it does.

Waking up relaxed, happy and admiring the sunshine breaking through the heavy curtains, we make coffee (my partner’s dietary requirements are met above and beyond with vegan cookies and oat milk) and we sit in bed admiring the space which has now become a core memory in our relationship.

We then pulled ourselves away from our suite and walked down the otherworldly spiral staircase to breakfast. We were led into the original dining room to which, unless you’ve sat in it yourself, I can’t fully do justice with words. The hand-carved rich wooden panels featuring leaves, animals and patterns span the entirety of the room. A candlelit table filled with fresh pastry, tea accompaniments, and flowers was awaiting our arrival.

We had the pleasure of meeting Blair, a wonderfully dressed, charming soft-spoken person who was bursting with tales and knowledge, clearly priding himself on providing impeccable service and it shows. He’s a credit to Mr. Thompson.

I opt for a full Scottish cooked breakfast; my partner struggled as there was no vegan option, but the kitchen was kind enough to get something together for them. For the non-vegans among us, exquisite. No notes! First time trying haggis too.

In the original dining room lies a giant bronze devil head. I couldn’t stop staring at him. We had to ask Blair about it and knew from the few moments we had already shared together that he would know all. He tells us the masterpiece originally came from Paris and if you look closely, you may see a French word or two. We then finished breakfast, checked out and visited the delightful Witchery gift shop across the road. A must see.

My partner summed up The Witchery best for me: The service is silent like the deity’s in Spirited Away, working behind the scenes always to make sure your stay is nothing short of perfect yet always there to help if needed. Never invasive but always more than happy to answer questions and tell storybook worthy tales of the city.

We will remember our stay forever and hope to return. We want to collect all nine suites and have our sights set on The Vestry next.

A personal message to James Thompson OBE: You have created one of the most stand out teams in the world. Thank you for keeping history and classic hospitality alive at The Witchery for those who dare to wonder and wander. You have enabled a sense of childlike curiosity and romance to exist hand in hand for all guests who step through any door. A true visionary.

Stays are available to book directly on The Witchery‘s website.

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