The Saudi region bidding to become the new Maldives

The egret raised its gaze, leaned forward and eased its body up, up – taking off into the warm sea breeze. It circled lazily as though lifted by an invisible hand, over tiny sandbars as white as its feathers, dipping its wings a whisper from the turquoise shallows. For a moment, it seemed to survey the scene: to admire the arc of overwater villas, and how the sunlight danced on the sea. It wasn’t, of course – it was probably just scouting for lunch – but a vision of such perfection inspires a little poetry.

It could have been a view of the Maldives, such was the hue and softness of the sand. It could have been Zanzibar or Mauritius, such was the abundant November sunshine and clarity of the sea. It could have been the Philippines, Seychelles, or the Caribbean’s most photogenic islands – but it wasn’t, not even close. I might have stood on that spot for hours and never guessed my location, were it not for the new Saudi Arabia stamp in my passport. I was standing on Saudi’s Red Sea islands – almost exactly opposite Egypt’s seaside resorts, though some 200km away.

Few countries are as ensnared in mystery and controversy as Saudi Arabia, or are as rich in ambition, resources and untapped tourism potential. The nation only started issuing visas to holidaymakers in 2019, and has since announced new tourism developments so futuristic, so outlandish, that their renderings could have been lifted from a sci-fi film. By contrast, the paradise isles of its Red Sea Project are firmly within reach: the region’s new international airport is reportedly set for completion by mid-2025, but flights are already operating and hotels are opening up.

But first, I’m sure you have questions. Is Saudi safe to visit? Absolutely: the UK’s Foreign and Commonwealth Office only warns against visiting its border with Yemen, which is 1,200km from the Red Sea islands, roughly the same distance as London to Madrid. Everywhere else in the country is “green”. While cruise lines have pulled their Red Sea itineraries due to unrest around Yemen, this region is similarly distant from the troubles.

Can you wear bikinis in Saudi? Yes: I spent five days in cozzies and sundresses in the Red Sea’s resorts, and ladies needn’t cover our hair anywhere except religious sites. What about alcohol? Afraid not: the country is dry, so if you need the hard stuff on holiday, look elsewhere. But if you can cope, read on: it’s worth forgoing a few piña coladas.

Private butlers and booze-free Champagne

Unlike most of Saudi’s other tourism “gigaprojects”, the Red Sea draws on its existing natural assets, rather than creating a whole new district from scratch. Despite their soft white sands and ludicrously blue water, these islands aren’t artificial: some were formed by volcanic eruptions, others from coral, or simply the ebb and flow of the tide. There are 92 isles in total, though three quarters will remain untouched even when the development is completed in 2030, with nine preserved as conservation areas.

The region’s first coastal hotel opened last January, The St Regis Red Sea Resort, and just getting here is an adventure: a 30-minute speedboat ride or 10-minute seaplane flight, slack-jawed at the scenery all the way. I spotted a dolphin from the boat, and relished the sun at my back and the spritz on my face, before the islands’ palm trees emerged on the horizon.

The St Regis has taken its cues from the Maldives, with overwater villas and butler service throughout, and a gently adventurous twist. Snorkelling and scuba trips depart for thriving coral nearby – part of the world’s fourth-largest barrier reef system – where you can fin alongside mantas, dugongs and sea turtles.

One morning, I took a paddle board out to a deserted sandbank; another, I snorkelled from my overwater villa before breakfast. Days are spent horizontal at the beach, poolside or spa – and as in all St Regis hotels, sunset is welcomed with a Champagne sabring (albeit zero per cent alcohol). Every night, corks flew skywards with the swoosh of a sword.

It may be a fledgling tourism market, but Saudi loves its luxury – and the St Regis’s rates reflect that, topping more than £1,000 per night year-round. Private butlers, private pools, private dining: it’s all incredibly discreet, so little wonder that several very high-profile guests are rumoured to have stayed here already (though trust me, the staff won’t spill the beans).

Solar panels, sea turtles – and £20 million houses

A five-minute boat ride away, Nujuma, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, commands over £1,660 per night – and it’s even more luxurious than its neighbour. Designed by Foster+Partners, its villas rise from the sea like Bond-villain lairs, their vast living rooms and bedrooms hidden beneath seashell-inspired domes. From the Diptique toiletries to the stargazing telescopes, private pools and – in the Royal Nujuma Villa – separate quarters for one’s staff, it’s clear that no expense has been spared. Nujuma also has a handful of beachfront “houses”, which insiders say sell for US$25 million (£19.7 million).

It’s opulent, yes, but gloriously low-fi too. Sure, you can flit from breakfast to beach in a chauffeur-driven golf buggy, but most guests prefer to ride bikes. One morning, I waded to Nujuma’s mangrove nurseries with its resident naturalist to spot guitar fish in the shallows and turtle nests on the sand. Guests have almost the entire run of the 247-acre island, so you can cycle to your favourite beach – then text your butler to bring lunch.

Sustainability is key to the development: “they’re putting the environment far ahead of profits,” one senior staff member told me proudly. The resorts are solar-powered, with nary a plastic bottle in sight, and a water-treatment plant that turns seawater into freshwater. The region is also creating employment opportunities for Saudis, whose welcome is unfalteringly warm both on the islands and off. In the restaurants, I was also surprised by the abundance of local produce: from tomatoes, mangoes and cauliflower to grilled shrimp in Nujuma’s superb Tabrah restaurant.

It’s incredible to think that until a few years ago, these isles were only visited by a handful of local fishermen, yet now they’re the paragon of luxury. You may need a juicy pension lump-sum or generous windfall, but if you want to render your social circle green with envy, while exploring one of tourism’s final untapped frontiers, this is the place. Move over, Maldives and co: for beachy bliss, Saudi’s Red Sea just raised the bar.

Essentials

Hazel Plush was a guest of Marriott at St Regis Red Sea Resort (00966 14 504 0000; marriott.com), which has one-bedroom Dune Villas with private pool from £1,079 per night, including breakfast. Nujuma, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve (00966 14 504 4444; ritzcarlton.com) has a one-bedroom sunset-view Beach Villas with private pool from £1,660 per night, including breakfast.

Return airport transfers by car and speedboat from £203 per person. There are currently no direct flights from the UK to the Red Sea: you must transfer in Riyadh or Jeddah with Saudia (saudia.com) or fly from Dubai with flydubai (flydubai.com). Flights from Heathrow to Red Sea International with Saudia cost from around £700 return.