You’re wrong about ‘boring’ Brussels

You might be unsurprised to read that I discovered Brussels on a work trip. The Belgian capital, arguably best known for its EU credentials, had never really crossed my mind as a holiday destination. I’d fallen into the trap of thinking of it as a “boring”, stuffy city, but was delighted to be proved wrong. Over the years I’ve been drawn back again and again, accompanied by a significant increase in tourists in recent years that, while at an all-time high, remains significantly lower than most European city-break favourites.

The buzz of this city, full of awe-inspiring architecture, art and world-class gastronomy, had me enchanted all over again as soon as I arrived on my most recent visit. As I ambled down vibrant streets from Bruxelles Midi station to my hotel, I passed art exhibitions and an impressive range of very cool vintage clothing stores, as well as the expected abundance of chocolatiers.

I was staying at Hotel Amigo. I could talk all day about the view from my bedroom’s balcony, which overlooked the Grand Place and quaint cobbled streets, but inside this elegant red brick building is equally spectacular. In homage to some of Brussel’s most famous artists, original Magritte lithographs, prints of Herge’s enduring classic Tintin (there’s even a whole Tintin suite!) and pieces by Goossens, Moulinsart and Broodthaers adorn the walls. Downstairs, the new Bar Magritte offers cocktails inspired by some of the artist’s most famous works (including one served in a bowler hat).

The city has plenty of options for continuing your night beyond aperitifs. Try Bonnefooi, a super-cool all-night café that opens from 8pm until 8am, hosting the best live music acts in Brussels. Or for something lively but a little tamer, head to Roskam for jazz and Belgian beer.

Days can be dedicated to art. The Royal Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium is currently housing the IMAGINE! Exhibition, celebrating 100 years of international surrealism. But you don’t need to enter a gallery to take in local art and art history. On top of the Magritte Museum I spotted a giant green apple in tribute to the artist. After grabbing a cone of frites with mayonnaise, I wandered the streets following the 80 mural-strong comic strip trail and street art trail. Towering modern art structures and paintings cover whole sides of elegant buildings featuring beloved cartoon characters such as Tintin, the Smurfs and Asterix. I explored on my own by foot, but you can also do it by bike. If you’d rather be accompanied, you can book a tour with an art expert (from €150).

By following the comic trail you’ll eventually find yourself in the mediaeval Marollen neighbourhood, which encapsulates the essence of the city with its plethora of antique and second-hand shops, and historic bars.

At the edge of this area, I stayed in the Hotel Brussels. The most impressive of its views might be the adjacent Palais De Justice, one of the largest buildings in Europe, which you can visit for free.

Another area worth checking out is the trendy, high-end shopping zone of Ixelles, where Audrey Hepburn was born. Here you’ll find restaurants such as the plant-based Humus x Hortense, which offers changing tasting menus to match the 24 “micro seasons” of the year. Although there’s something to be said for a traditional carbonnade stew, Brussels is full of delectable surprises that veer away from typically rich fare. Another place to try is contemporary seafood restaurant Aster, which opened its doors a year ago and offers a divine seven-course tasting menu.

You’ll also find one of the city’s best kept secrets in Ixelles: La Cambre Abbey. This ancient complex and tranquil garden dating back to 1201 makes for a real haven, and like the closely situated Bois de la Cambre is ideal for a peaceful picnic or stroll. For a little late afternoon fun in the city centre, don’t miss the all-you-can-eat Waffle Workshop, hidden away down an unsuspecting backstreet, or the beer tasting at Brasserie de la Senne, one of few working craft breweries open to visitors.

There’s a lot to love about the better-known areas of Brussels, but it’s well worth travelling further afield to experience a totally different side to the city. On the outskirts you’ll find Mix hotel, which offers panoramic views of the surrounding forest. Try to book a room at the tip of the cross-shaped design for four floor-to-ceiling windows instead of two.

There’s so much more to Brussels than most people realise. In fact, those who live there say it has “Belgitude”: wholly unique, inspiring and far, far from boring.

Ruby Deevoy was a guest of Hotel Amigo (00 32 2 547 4747), which offers doubles from €380, and the Hotel Brussels (00 32 2 504 1111; thehotel-brussels.be), which offers doubles from €173.