Why India’s Golden Triangle is the one trip I would book this year

guide to india's golden triangle
A guide to India’s unmissable Golden Triangle Adrian Pope - Getty Images

There’s so much to see and do in India – it is the seventh-largest country in the world after all. It’s certainly somewhere you’ll want to return to if you can, as I did, and once you’ve visited the main tourist hotspots, you'll want to search a little deeper. Rajasthan is one of the most popular states to visit, closely followed by the westerly coastal regions of Kerala and Goa, famous for their beautiful beaches and laid-back culture. But that doesn’t even begin to scratch the surface of this vast and diverse nation.

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For that one big holiday this year, instead of multiple short breaks, a longer trip to India promises the ultimate adventure. For many first-time visitors to the country, Rajasthan is top of their list and it isn’t hard to see why. This desert region in the north is home to temples, palaces, impressive relics of the Mughal empire and vibrant, populous cities. The Golden Triangle is the perfect beginner’s itinerary to give you a glimpse of the many wonders of India, spanning the capital, Delhi, Agra, which is the essential stop for anyone hoping to visit the Taj Mahal, and the Pink City of Jaipur, heady, hectic but intoxicating in the best possible way.

It’s easy to add on extra stops should you have a little longer to spare – Country Living Holidays has a tour of the Golden Triangle, with an extra couple of nights on the trail of tigers in Ranthambore National Park. Or you can join a tour combining the Golden Triangle with the Ganges, featuring a stop in Kolkata and a cruise down the sacred river in a luxurious 28-suite boat. For a once-in-a-lifetime holiday you won’t forget in a hurry, a trip to the Golden Triangle is hard to beat, offering a well-trodden way to ease yourself into India. Here’s my guide to this must-visit part of the country, which you can easily travel around overland instead of by air….

Delhi

guide to the golden triangle
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The capital of India is a huge, densely populated city with two parts, old and new. Sites of note include the magnificent Red Fort, commissioned by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan (of Taj Mahal fame) in 1639. Old Delhi is where to head to see the bustle of daily life in India, with rickshaws, cows, cars and mopeds carrying entire families all sharing the streets. In New Delhi, more imposing Mughal architecture can be discovered at Humayun’s Tomb. Another site of note nearby is the Sikh temple Gurdwara Bangla Sahib, home to a community kitchen that dispenses thousands of meals a day (and in India, even the mass-catering tastes good).

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The capital city is also home to grand residences, high-gloss five-star hotels and the diplomatic enclave of Chanakyapuri, which was established in the Fifties. It’s the perfect starting point for a trip to India, immersing you instantly in the colourful, glorious chaos.

Agra

guide to the golden triangle
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Agra is now an unmissable stop on any India itinerary, due to a certain landmark. It has become a booming city in the wake of the tourism the Taj Mahal receives. The world’s most famous mausoleum welcomes a staggering 20,000 visitors a day, with a steady stream of people filing past the replica tombs of Shah Jahan and his beloved wife Mumtaz, who bore him 14 children (the real ones are in the basement, a measure to protect the many jewels that adorn them from thievery).

His other spouses are also buried within the grounds, in slightly less monumental tombs. Sunrise has become a popular time to visit, so don’t expect to beat the crowds by rising early, as many others will have done the same. The light is beautiful at this time of day, though. You’ll be back at your hotel by around 9am, feeling a real sense of achievement for the day already, especially because of the exhilaration that comes with beholding such a famous sight with your own eyes. For many, it’s the Taj Mahal that brings them to India in the first place.

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Most people tend to pass through Agra swiftly, stopping here only to see the Taj Mahal – but if you have the time to spare, it can be worth spending a little longer here, to make the pace of your tour a little more leisurely and relaxing. The most luxurious hotel in the city is undoubtedly the Oberoi Amarvilas, where every guestroom has a view of the Taj Mahal, and you can also glimpse it in the distance from the terrace. Yoga is offered in the afternoon and there’s a spa – it’s the perfect place to unwind after rising early for your bucket-list excursion.

Jaipur

guide to the golden triangle
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The essence of India can be discovered in the Pink City of Jaipur, a hectic, heady place, famed for its block-printed textiles, dusky terracotta buildings (painted that hospitable shade ahead of the visit of the Prince of Wales in 1876), chaotic streets, beautifully decorated temples and palaces, and busy bazaars.

Set on a hilltop a short drive out of the city is the Amber (or Amer) Fort, a golden complex that dates back to 1592, with various additions and modifications over the centuries. The pioneering irrigation systems in place have been harnessing the monsoon rains for centuries, making life possible in this arid region against all odds.

In the Pink City itself, ride a rickshaw for a hair-raising experience amid the noisy traffic – some, run by the Pink City Rickshaw Co, are painted an appropriate shade of bright pink, with an all-female team of drivers. Don’t miss a stop at the City Palace, home to the Maharajas of Jaipur for hundreds of years. If you’re hoping to shop for some souvenirs, visit a textile factory and admire the art of block-printing. Lots of hotels, such as the opulent Oberoi Rajvilas, have housekeeping teams that are well versed in the art of flower displays, offering garlands to guests, showering them with petals as they arrive and decorating their rooms with floral arrangements – and you can see where the colourful blooms likely come from at Jaipur’s lively flower market.

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