Why your hydrating serum should feature more than just hyaluronic acid
Beauty editors unanimously agree that a face serum is the one skincare category worth splurging on. A good one will contain actives proven to help maintain the health of your complexion while targeting specific issues from hyperpigmentation to fine lines and of course, hydration.
Considering the ever-changing seasons in our UK climate, moisture loss is a common concern – which is why many skincare formulas now contain some form of hydrating ingredient (hyaluronic acid being the most popular). But do we really need a separate hydrating serum?
What does a hydrating serum do?
"Hydrating serums can help restore balance and replenish moisture without adding extra oil, which can sometimes be required if the skin is too over-exfoliated and stripped of its natural sebum," says Dr Jinah Yoo, consultant dermatologist at Maylin x Jinah Yoo Dermatology. However, all skin types can benefit from a hydrating serum; it can help to plump mature complexions and replenish loss of moisture in dry skin types.
What ingredients to look for in hydrating serums
Hyaluronic acid is often the star in hydrating serums, but there are plenty of clinically proven ingredients that help to improve hydration levels, all while strengthening the skin barrier, encouraging collagen production and plumping up fine lines.
Dr Yoo is a fan of ceramides, squalane (on dry types) and aloe vera as these ingredients "can work in tandem to provide deep and lasting hydration, improve skin texture, and support the skin barrier by reducing trans-epidermal water loss". Peptides are also key for keeping skin bouncy and smooth.
Can oily skin types use a hydrating serum?
Oily or combination skin can reap its advantages too, as they can still be prone to dehydration – which is a lack of water, rather than oil.
"The key is to choose ingredients that hydrate well without being greasy or clogging pores," says Dr Yoo. "Ingredients such as hyaluronic acid (also known as HA) attracts and retains moisture, glycerin is non-comedogenic and draws in moisture, niacinamide (vitamin B3) assists in regulating sebum production and supports the skin barrier, while sodium PCA and panthenol (vitamin B5) work well for maintaining hydration levels without clogging the skin."
But do you really need a hydrating serum?
In recent years, the internet has debated the necessity of a hyaluronic acid serum, considering how widely used the ingredient is in other skincare products. While you may not need one if your skin feels comfortably hydrated after cleansing, they do help if your complexion has even the remotest tightness afterwards – especially if the serum features any of the ingredients mentioned above.
"Dedicated HA serums often have a higher concentration of hyaluronic acid, which provides more potent hydration when compared to other products that include it as one ingredient in a wider list," explains Dr. Yoo. "If your skin is extremely dry, flaky or dehydrated, an additional HA serum can provide the extra boost of hydration needed, and it can be layered with other skincare products to support the effectiveness of your routine."
The best hydrating serums for every skin type:
Youthbomb 360 Radiance Concentrate
Aside from delivering intense hydration, this do-it-all serum also contains peptides and proteins to brighten and boost elasticity. Meanwhile, willow bark and witch hazel help maintain skin's clarity. It's perfect for anyone who wants their hydrating treatment to work even harder.
Hydr8 B5 Intense
When in doubt, make Medik8 the first port of call for your skincare needs as the no-frills formulas are efficacious and loaded with proven ingredients. This hydrating serum is supercharged with NMF (natural moisturising factors made up of ingredients such as lactic acid and glycerin) to attract and hold moisture, multi-weight hyaluronic acid to penetrate deeper into the skin, and panthenol (or vitamin B5) to maintain lasting plumpness.
HA Intensifier Multi Glycan
Going above and beyond simply delivering hyaluronic acid to the dermis, this new serum contains the patented ingredient Proxylane, which supports the skin's own hyaluronic acid levels so it stays hydrated and plump for much longer. This also means fine lines appear smoother, and elasticity is restored.
£104.99 at facethefuture.co.uk
Skinesis Intense Hydrating Booster
Beyond offering intense hydration – as the name suggests – Sarah Chapman's formula also protects against environmental damage and stresses thanks to patented Bioecolia (it reinforces the skin's barrier functions) and Plerasan, which stimulates skin repair processes.
Calming Rescue Serum
Oculoplastic surgeon and facial aesthetics doctor Maryam Zamani developed this soothing serum to fortify a weakened skin barrier. It uses a combination of prebiotics, cica and pro-vitamin D3 to take care of redness while shielding against environmental damage.
Double Serum
Dry complexions will drink up this nourishing serum instantly. Every pump combines oil and water formulas to form a silky texture that mimics the skin's natural hydrolipidic film, resulting in a radiant (not greasy) finish. It harnesses the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits of turmeric, while marsh samphire and avocado extracts keep skin feeling extra soft to the touch. It smells just like a pampering spa, too.
Regenerist Ultra Firming Serum
Niacinamide, glycerin, and peptides work together to simultaneously perk up fine lines while boosting moisture and encouraging elasticity. The cream-serum texture feels especially comforting on thirsty skin types.
Moisture Boost Plumping Serum
For oily skin types that are prone to dehydration, this lightweight, oil-free serum will replenish loss moisture without clogging pores. Simply layer underneath your SPF or moisturiser.
Oh La Plump Quenching Serum
Like a tall glass of water for your face, this silky serum plumps the skin instantly, enveloping it in a lightweight cloak of vitamin E and three weights of hyaluronic acid. The best part? It provides a refreshed, hydrated canvas for make-up. This innovative brand also uses vertical farming to produce its natural ingredients with minimal environmental impact.
Pro-Collagen Banking Serum
The experts at Dermalogica understand that incorporating actual collagen into topical skincare is tricky; often, collagen molecules aren't small enough to penetrate the skin. In comes this 'collagen banking' serum, which essentially has all the ingredients – think amino acids, antioxidants, and carnosine dipeptides – to preserve your complexion's natural collagen. Meanwhile, jojoba esters promise to replenish moisture levels for happier-looking skin.
Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex Serum
There is a reason why Advanced Night Repair is now a modern icon: It truly works. The combination of probiotics, squalane and hyaluronic acid means that not only do you wake up with velvety skin, it's also looks significantly calmer and brighter.
Power Infusing Eye Concentrate
For an under-eye area prone to a crepe-y feel or dehydration, treat it to Ultimune. The lightweight texture means no risk of milia (tiny white spots caused by clogged pores) forming, and it wears well underneath make-up. Expect to see brighter, plumper, and fresher-looking eyes in no time.
Anti-Wrinkle Hydrating Serum
Japanese and Korean skincare brands excel when it comes to formulating hydrating products. This one by Curél will satisfy both dry and oily complexions (and in every season) as it replenishes moisture without feeling heavy. Despite its name, the straightforward ingredients list (which is also free from fragrance and drying alcohols) will work on younger complexions too.
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