The stunning Scottish wilderness you’ve probably never heard of
When I tell people I’m going to Ardnamurchan for a few days, I’m met with confused faces and furrowed brows, “Ardna-where?” is the usual response. No one seems to even know it’s in Scotland, much less that it’s where you can stand on the most westerly point of the British mainland.
Once home to some of the most remote settlements in Scotland, Ardnamurchan suffered harshly during the notorious Highland Clearances of the 18th and 19th centuries. The townships of Skinod, Buarblaig, Tornamona and Coire-mhuillin in the north were all cleared.
Today, access is a fair bit better, though it still (thankfully) has a very hidden-away feel to it. Its main artery, the single-track B8007, twists along the shores of Loch Sunart and around the crater of an old volcano before delivering you to the Atlantic coast. This winding drive into nature gives you a sense that you are reaching into the unknown, or at least the not-much-visited.
One of the biggest lies told about the Scottish Highlands is that it is a wild place, untouched by man, where nature casts her judgemental eye over things, ready to bestow rewards or dole out punishments. In reality, many of the thick forests of pines that cover the Highland mountains are non-native but rather the result of a complex and long history of deforestation.
In Ardnamurchan, however, one of the first things you notice as you turn onto the peninsula is large clusters of the ancient oak woods that would have once spread far and wide across Scotland – giving the region an instantly more natural, unkempt feel.
A long but slightly chubby peninsula stretching out into the Atlantic like a swollen foot, Ardnamurchan has long been missed off the tourist trail by travellers and weekenders who roar up the A830 between Fort William and Mallaig – stopping briefly at Glenfinnan – en route to Skye, failing to register that there is more to see beyond the Road to the Isles.
But there is certainly more. Along the shores of Loch Sunart, which separates Ardnamurchan from Morvern and Mull (you can take a ferry over from Kilchoan to Tobermory for lunch), lurk Precambrian Era mountains and peaks are capped with volcanic ash – a reminder that active volcanoes once erupted on the other side of the peninsula.
As you head towards the Atlantic, you’ll arrive at Britain’s most westerly mainland point. Technically, the title belongs to the headland of Corrachadh Mòr. However, the lighthouse at Ardnamurchan Point, a short drive away, loudly claims the prize. Hair-splitting aside, the lighthouse is a good place to get a sense of just how exposed the battered coastline is.
From April to October, you can climb the lighthouse (ardnamurchanlighthouse.com; adults £7.50) or take the free five-minute walk around its foot. On a clear day, you can just make out the silhouette of the Small Isles and may even spy Skye’s Cuillin range peering over them.
Roads are scarce in these parts and driving distances can be deceptive. While you can see Ardnamurchan Lighthouse quite clearly from Sanna Bay, it’s a 30-minute drive between the two. Framed with dunes and hardy machair that struggles against blustery Atlantic winds, Sanna Bay, with its soft white-shell sand, is arguably one of the country’s most beautiful beaches and is a great spot for a stroll at any time of year. Wrap up warm for a blustery autumnal walk and you may spot whales and dolphins off the coast.
Just getting to Ardnamurchan promises adventure. If you’re a fan of boats, hop on the Corran Ferry a few miles south of Fort William for a quick ten-minute crossing. Alternatively, you can leave the Fort William to Mallaig road at Lochailort and travel down the A861, past the eerie ruins of Tioram Castle. Be sure to stop off at the Loch Shiel Hotel in Acharacle where you can get a good meal and, if you’re lucky, an impromptu traditional music performance (lochshielhotel.com; mains from £10).
After turning at Salen, where you’ll be venturing into Ardnamurchan proper, you’ll pass through Laga Bay. Here, you can hire self-drive boats from Ardnamurchan Charters or book a boat tour with owner Andy Jackson to look for seals, eagles, and porpoises and possibly visit the nearby island of Carna (west-scotland-marine.com; self-drive from £120 per boat).
As the caretaker of the island (very few people have just one job in these parts), Andy is on a mission to restore Carna to its natural state, reversing centuries of extensive sheep-grazing and the over-zealous cutting down of native trees. Part of the approach of the Carna Conservation Initiative in which Andy is involved, has included placing ten Highland cows on the isle, who fulfil an important munching and trampling role to help native habitats heal.
In this rugged slice of landscape, red deer roam free and it’s rutting season, so you’re likely to hear their call even if you don’t see them. The elusive pine marten – one of Scotland’s rarest sighted species – is also a regular visitor to the area, as well as otters and eagles.
In autumn, the fading sunshine casts a honeyed glow on the fallen leaves and the night sky holds the potential of northern lights. With a slower approach to all things, Ardnamurchan is a destination worth making the journey for before the word gets around. Just don’t forget your binoculars.
How to do it
Sunart Adventures has two luxury lodges and offers adventure packages including whale watching, kayaking & canoeing, and wildlife-spotting (sunartadventures.com; from £590 per week).
