This sneaky form of skin ageing is easy to identify and treat - if you know what to look for
Chances are, you’ve heard a lot about inflammation in the body lately. Social media is abuzz on the topic, and experts believe it's a precursor to many chronic diseases, affecting nearly every organ in your body, including your skin. And your outer layer is where you're likely to encounter inflammation's effects daily—from the angry pimple that popped up overnight to the swelling from a bug bite to the tenderness of a sunburn.
But what if we told you that itchiness and redness were just the tip of the iceberg—that inflammation can even impact how old you look? Enter: inflammaging.
The clever term was coined “to describe the low-grade, chronic inflammation that accumulates in our bodies as we age and leads to accelerated aging, particularly in the skin,” explains Tiffany Jow Libby, MD, director of Mohs micrographic and dermatologic surgery at Brown Dermatology in Rhode Island.
But what exactly is inflammaging, how do you know if you have it, and what can you do about it? We polled Dr. Libby and two other dermatologists for their answers. Get ready to glow.
What's Exactly Is Inflammaging?
Inflammation is essential for healing—think of the swelling that protects an injury—but it “becomes problematic when it’s sustained for long periods of time,” explains Dr. Libby. “Unlike acute and protective inflammation, the sustained kind, driven by a prolonged immune response, ultimately exhaust the body’s repair systems.”
How does this affect your complexion? “When assaulted by chronic inflammation, the skin's immune system goes haywire—its protective barrier is weakened and cells stop growing and performing their normal functions,” explains dermatologist, Ryan Turner, MD, co-founder of TRNR Skin. “This leads to a breakdown in collagen and a loss of hydration, which can appear as wrinkles, dryness, and uneven skin tone.”
And if left untreated, things will only get worse, says Dr. Libby, who compares it to slow-moving environmental erosion. “Eventually, inflammation will wear down the structural integrity of skin by producing molecules like free radicals, which damage cellular structures, including DNA, proteins, and lipids.”
How To Know If You're Experiencing Inflammaging
While many of the hallmarks of inflammaging can, in fact, be a sign of all forms of skin aging, this particular issue “is often accompanied by a simultaneous spike in skin sensitivity,” says Dr. Turner. So in addition to the more traditional signs, you may also experience “redness, irritation, dryness, and sensitivity to certain products since the skin barrier is compromised.” And if you have a history of skin sensitivity or suffer from chronic skin conditions like eczema or rosacea, you may be more predisposed to inflammaging, adds Los Angeles-based dermatologist James Y. Wang, MD, founder of Metropolis Dermatology.
But the truth is, there isn’t any real way to determine whether what you’re experiencing is caused by “regular” aging or inflammation if you’re not under the care of a dermatologist. “Although there is no specific clinical test for inflammaging, dermatologists can often recognize its signs by evaluating skin changes, such as increased redness, sensitivity, and fine lines that are linked to inflammation-related stress,” assures Dr. Wang.
Did you know: While there are certain pro-inflammatory markers that can be tested in the blood to assess general inflammation, they’re used for research purposes and not commercial testing, says Dr. Turner.
Another thing to note is that inflammaging can occur at pretty much any age, especially because it often goes undetected until signs finally begin to show in skin. “Inflammaging can begin as early as the late twenties to thirties, depending on individual factors such as skin type, environmental exposures, and lifestyle,” says Dr. Wang. “As we age, our immune system also declines—a process called immunosenescence—which compounds the effects of inflammaging.”
What Causes Inflammaging
There are plenty of things that contribute to chronic inflammation and, thus, inflammaging, that are within your control—a poor diet that's high in sugar and processed foods, too much stress—and others that, unfortunately, come down to the genetic hand you're dealt, says Dr. Libby. “Some people simply have a predisposition to an increased inflammatory response,” adds Dr. Turner, who says that these individuals have a more reactive immune system that results in more inflammation at baseline than others.
How to Treat Inflammaging
Again, it's important to consult with a board-certified dermatologist to asses your skin's individual needs, but many of the same things experts recommend as part of an overall anti-aging skincare routine apply here (with some important tweaks):
Try gentler active ingredients. While retinol is considered the gold standard in anti-aging, it can be deeply sensitizing, causing redness, irritation, and peeling. For that reason, Dr. Libby advises opting for softer-touch ingredients known for their anti-inflammatory and skin-strengthening benefits, such as niacinamide, centella asiatica, and a lesser-known ingredient called naringenin. “Naringenin directly inhibits inflammatory pathways in skin cells and helps reduce ongoing, low-level inflammation, preventing the breakdown of collagen and elastin–the proteins responsible for skin's structure and firmness.” Find it in Deinde Skin-Strengthening Serum which has been clinically proven to reduce inflammaging by 96%. “It also has niacinamide to fortify these effects and support a healthy skin barrier,” she says.
Bolster your barrier. As mentioned, inflammaging can compromise skin's protective barrier, leading to dehydration. So, Dr. Wang also recommends incorporating anti-inflammatory and barrier-repairing products rich in lipids into your routine. (Reminder: lipids are naturally occurring fats in the skin that aid in moisture retention, promote healing, and play an important role in maintaining a healthy skin barrier.) In particular, Dr. Wang recommends Epicutis Lipid Serum because it “has only 8 ingredients, including TSC, a molecule that supports the skin’s natural healing and resilience without irritation.”
Protect, protect, protect. Dr. Turner stresses how important it is to use antioxidants like vitamin c, green tea extracts, and resveratrol, along with skin barrier-supporting moisturizers that contain ceramides, squalane, and hyaluronic acid. A good moisturizer to try: DefenAge 24/7 Barrier Balance Anti-Aging Cream. Dr. Turner adds, “Sun protection above all is one of our strongest combatants against inflammaging.” His pick: Supergoop Daily Dose Vitamin C Serum Sunscreen SPF 40 because it offers sun protection with antioxidants.
Try these lifestyle tweaks. Adopting some key habits can make a big difference. “Signs of inflammaging can be battled with exercise, an avoidance of pro-inflammatory foods such as red meat and processed foods, stress management, and the cessation of alcohol and smoking,” says, Dr. Turner. In particular, “adopting a Mediterranean diet, which is rich in fruits, vegetables, whole grains, and healthy fats, may also be helpful and effective in reducing inflammaging,” Dr. Libby adds.
Go high tech. You can also enlist the help of at-home tools and in-office treatments. “Aesthetic treatments like gentle facials, red light therapy, HydraFacial treatments, and laser toning can also help manage inflammaging,” says Dr. Wang.
10% Niacinamide Booster
This serum booster, powered by niacinamide, also contains licorice root to fight discoloration and hyaluronic acid and glycerin to deeply moisturize. Use it alone or add a few drops to your moisturizer.
Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream
This barrier-strengthening cream, infused with a triple-lipid complex to restore skin's fatty acid and ceramide levels, seals in moisture and keeps irritants out.
Daily Dose Vitamin C + SPF 40 Serum
A beautiful-to-use daily sunscreen that includes a hefty dose of antioxidant vitamin C to fully protect skin from any environmental onslaught.
SpectraLite FaceWare Pro
Research shows that red light therapy can reduce inflammation in the skin, and this full-face mask is one of the best red light tools that money can buy.
The bottom line
Although we can’t entirely prevent or reverse inflammaging, understanding what it is and what causes it can help in establishing a more efficacious skincare routine. It’s also a good reminder that our environment and lifestyle habits play a major part in how we age. So, if you tend to have highly reactive sensitive skin and are about inflammaging, it may be time to implement some of these changes. And of course, consult your dermatologist should you be experiencing some of these signs.
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