How to avoid an underwear faux pas this party season

Satin looks (from left to right): Juno Temple, Daisy Ridley and Victoria Beckham
Satin looks (from left to right): Juno Temple, Daisy Ridley and Victoria Beckham - Getty

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It’s a perennially popular wardrobe staple: the slinky satin dress is a party season saviour and right now every brand is in agreement. You can find dozens of iterations of satin dresses at every price point, from the high street to high end and it’s a style that Victoria Beckham appreciates, too.

The Spice Girl turned fashion designer has created a wildly successful version in softly draped satin with ruching across the tummy, gently split cap sleeves that drape over the shoulders and an elegant flared hemline. It’s set to become an It style of 2024’s festive season and beyond. Queen Letizia of Spain, Kendall Jenner, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Gugu Mbutha-Raw have all been spotted in the frock, which is fast becoming a modern classic.

Queen Letizia of Spain wearing Victoria Beckham's cleverly rouched satin dress
Queen Letizia of Spain wearing Victoria Beckham’s cleverly rouched satin dress - Getty

“The satin slip dress has an enduring appeal,” says Karen Peacock, the co-founder and creative officer of Albaray. “The bias cut skims the body and creates a feminine silhouette that embraces the female form, resulting in a garment that is tactile and luxurious to wear.”

Laura Dern in a halter-neck dress at Netflix's Lonely Planet New York screening at The Whitby Hotel on October 1 2024
Laura Dern in a halter-neck dress at Netflix’s Lonely Planet New York screening at The Whitby Hotel on October 1 2024 - Getty

So as well as the way the dress looks, there’s extra attraction to the fabric and the way in which it makes women feel, which are all key to its allure. Gently swishing satin feels cool and comfortable against the skin while the styling and material is also extravagant enough to add glamour to every outfit. Combined with the very feminine nature of the cut, satin dresses are an instant win if you’re looking for a one-and-done party dress.

However, the very beauty of that slinky satin can become overshadowed by the sleek nature of the material. Satin’s light reflecting properties and fine weave means that every lump and bump under your dress may end up on show.

Dakota Johnson in a body-skimming chocolate brown dress
Dakota Johnson in a body-skimming chocolate brown dress - Getty

Compared to a wafty smock dress or tulip shape that stands away from the body, the fitted silhouette of a satin sheath leaves nowhere to hide. Likewise, satin can sometimes cling across your body in an uncompromising way. The ruching on Beckham’s dress goes some way to creating an optical illusion and diverting attention onto the detail and not what lies beneath. Similarly, a print, rather than a plain dress, will make the viewer’s eyes dart across the pattern and not rest on any one area of your body. These dresses, or indeed any garment, should make the wearer feel fabulous – however, you may feel more assured with some extra forward planning.

If you feel you need a little support, or smoothing, prepare your party outfit from the inside out and choose appropriate underwear that lets you become your most confident self. “When wearing materials like silk or satin, I would recommend choosing smooth and sleek underwear with minimal seaming and elastics,” explains Soozie Jenkinson, the head of lingerie design at Marks & Spencer. A lumpy seam will be just as noticeable as any perceived body hang-ups. M&S’s Magicwear™ shaping shorts are Jenkinson’s choice and have a myriad of features, including zonal control technology, added stretch and Cool Comfort™ technology for all day wear and easy movement. “The lightweight, supportive fabric creates a smooth finish while lifting and shaping your silhouette, creating an hourglass shape… with no VPL,” she adds.

Ghost is a classic go-to for sinuous dresses and its Palm and Winnie styles are seasonal best-sellers. Sameera Azeem is the brand’s creative director and suggests choosing a bias-cut fabric (where the fabric is cut at a diagonal angle against the weave) will give the most complimentary results. “At Ghost, we believe it is a misconception that bias-cut styles are revealing and clingy,” she says. “Styles that are cut right, in quality fabric, are extremely flattering as they should only skim your body without being overly fitted and clingy.” It’s worth double checking the fit when you try on any potential satin pieces to make sure you’re wearing the right size. As always, spending a little more for a plusher fabric will pay dividends. “Satin can be unforgiving as a fabric base so it is crucial for us that more fabric is put into the garment, so that there is movement in the garment when worn,” says Azeem.

Ghost
Ghost

Ruby satin slip dress, £95, Ghost

The right material composition is always a consideration, too. Azeem suggests “choosing a silk or a viscose base. Polyester-based fabrics are man-made fibres and tend to cling instead of drape. They are very static and not flattering.” As well as a compromised aesthetic, if sustainability is high on your list of concerns, be aware that polyester fibres are derived from oil while silk or viscose (which is made from wood-pulp) are more natural fibres.

Another extra precaution to take against clinging? “The Rosie ContourWear All In One has been a customer favourite,” Jenkinson notes. “The luxurious, high-shine fabric is developed so that clothes simply glide over… and is finished with a sleek-to-the-touch anti-static technology which will stop the fabric from clinging.”

Beyond the party season, how can you make a special dress purchase have longevity? While Beckham styled the parrot-green version of her dress with long, black latex gloves and similarly encasing black patent boots on the catwalk, a silky shift dress could become the most hardwearing item in your autumn/winter wardrobe. You just need to know a few styling tricks. Think beyond the obvious festive accompaniments of strappy sandals and a clutch to get more wear from your purchase.

Bella Hadid walking the runway for Victoria Beckham's Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2023 show
Bella Hadid walking the runway for Victoria Beckham’s Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2023 show - Getty

Peacock is a fan of the outfit options you can create from a satin dress. “When styled, this dress shape can offer lots of versatility. Dress it down for everyday appeal by adding a longline jumper. The proportion play and fabric mix offer a high-end look.” Choose a chunky knit in a similar shade to your dress to create a coherent outfit. Peacock also suggests adding a tuxedo jacket. “It has a masculine vibe and the two pieces compliment each other to create a modern going-out look.” Come summer, bring your dress out again and team it with sandals and a basket for year-round wear.

The slinky dresses to try – and the perfect underwear to go with each one

Chocolate Satin Scoop Neck Dress, £99, Albaray; Rosie ContourWear Firm Control All In One, £40, Marks & Spencer

Iridescent Midaxi Shift Dress, £69, Marks & Spencer; Skims Sculpt fitted stretch-woven shorts, £36, Selfridges

Victoria Beckham Piped paneled gathered satin midi dress, £890, Net-a-Porter; Spanx Suit Your Fancy bodysuit, £132, Net-a-Porter

Rixo Zadie satin-jacquard midi dress, £255, Net-a-Porter; Commando Luxe Control stretch mesh-trimmed tech-jersey thong, £92, Net-a-Porter

Max Mara Elogio paneled crinkled-satin midi dress, £320, Net-a-Porter; Cool Comfort™ Flexifit™ Full Slip 14”-35”, £20, Marks & Spencer

Iris Lace Detail Wrap Dress, £229, Whistles; Skims Sculpt ruched stretch-woven body, £72, Selfridges

Open-Back Satin Maxi Dress, £145, & Other Stories; Smoothing Square Neck Slip Dress, Chocolate, £32, John Lewis