Shopping Time: 5 Incredible Rolex Air-Kings to Buy Right Now
We are always scouring the web for the most amazing watches currently available, and each Friday Shopping Time shares five standout timepieces with you.
Though prices for Rolex sports watches keep falling, the smaller Rolex Day-Date has shot up in value—a full 57 percent in Auguest, according to the watch market tracker Everywatch. You know we love our watch market data, so much so that we have a primer on how to use watch market data to inform your collecting. And while hearing about dropping prices on everything from the the Rolex GMT Master to the Submariner to a bevy of good deals on current Rolex references, and, yes, even the modern Daytona, is always good news, it’s also become abundantly clear that smaller watches are in vogue among collectors ever since the pandemic neophytes and crypto-bros got out of the game.
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The current market and sartorial context are, then, perfect for the Rolex Air-King, a watch we detailed the entire history of in our thoroughly researched Air-King Collector’s Guide recently. Vintage modes are almost all 34 mm, though there are a smattering of 36 mm models as well as the modern iterations at modern sizes. What’s so delightful about the Air-King is that they are full-on Rolex watches with a more discrete stance—almost ready for those seeking quiet luxury.
Below are the five best Air-Kings on the market right now.
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Rolex Air-King Reference 5501 | $9,900
In 1959, Rolex introduced a new Air-King reference in the 5501, and it brought a smidge of the Datejust’s personality with it thanks to the addition of a fluted bezel. This was a great move for Datejust buyers who didn’t want or need a date, preferring instead a simple and symmetrical dial unhindered by a magnifying cyclops. The case remained at 34 mm in diameter, though it was produced for a period alongside the 36 mm ref. 5504, and it also came in bi-metal configurations as seen here.
This 5501 comes to us from Wind Vintage and features a favorite configuration, pairing a black dial with a two-toned case and oyster bracelet. It feels like a proper precursor to the Explorer reference 274273 in steel and gold. It’s sporty and low-key, but has just enough distinction by way of the inclusion of gold to live in a sweet-spot between too plain and ostentatious. This 5501 dates to 1986 and boasts a beautifully preserved case and bezel, which retain their sharp lines. The black dial shows small signs of age, and it comes with its original papers but no box.
Rolex Air-King Reference 5504 | $4,350
The Air-King reference 5504 is peculiar to collectors and enthusiasts for a few reasons. This would be the first time an Air-King would get a larger 36 mm case, which is due to the fact that Rolex used the same case for the Explorer 1 during the same production years, making it a dual-reference case. Further, the 5504 was only produced for a short five-year window before giving way to the reference 5501. Given the slightly larger and sportier case, this is often a reference that collectors will look to as it has just as much versatility today as it did in the ‘50s and ‘60s. The handsome dial doesn’t hurt that situation, either.
This 5504 is being offered by Craft + Tailored and hails from 1959, making it early in its production run. This example features a beautiful case with well-preserved lines, but the real star of this watch is the dial. This dial has aged to a warm off-white color with signs of age under the hand stack in an even, appealing manner. Age also makes itself known at the perimeter of the dial, but without intruding too far into the dial’s center. This is exactly the level of aging that makes watches of this era so desirable and charming.
Rolex Air-King Reference 14010 | $3,750
The mid ‘90s brought us a plethora of incredible sport watches thanks to brands being more willing to take some risks when it comes to their designs. If you ask us, some of the all-time great sport watch designs of the neo-vintage era come from the ‘90s, and the Air-King reference 14010 is a perfect example of this, which took the preceding 14000 reference and added an engine-turned bezel. There were a variety of dial configurations to enjoy, and the 34 mm case (which features lovely brushed lugs) made it an exceptional day-to-day option. In fact, it’s a watch that remains just that.
This example from Tropical Watch features a black dial and bar hour markers, presenting a bit more timeless than Roman-numeral dials found in the same reference family. This allows the unique bezel to sing on its own while retaining a clean and approachable design elsewhere. This example uses a tritium dial and shows slight signs of age, while the case and bracelet are crisp with only superficial markings. The unique Air-King script on the dial stands out, making this a truly unique watch with a fun personality.
Rolex Air-King Refence 114210 | $6,795
Moving into the modern era, the Air-King reference 114210 represents something of a last swing at the original formula of the watch. The Air-King would go out of production in 2014 for a brief two-year hiatus before returning in a very different form (more on that later). This 114210 shows clear design inspiration from past references of the Air-King, such as the 14010 seen above with a machined bezel design. This dial is one of a handful that were offered, and each brings quite a bit of personality to the table. This one displays the 3-6-9 layout made famous by the Explorer 1, and it utilizes different colored lume at the hour markers. It’s a strange but fun experience of the watch.
This particular 114210 is available from Bob’s Watches and gets a silver dial with blue lume hour-markers. The turned bezel is a throwback touch, while the rest of the watch attempts to push ahead, making this something of an outlier when it comes to Rolex watches of this era. This watch uses the same caliber 3130 you’d find in other dateless watches from Rolex, such as the Explorer 1 and the Submariner. This is an unusual watch that we love for what it represents in Rolex’s transitional history.
Rolex Air-King Reference 126900 | $8,795
In 2016, Rolex brought the Air-King back in what could be its most unexpected form yet. The dial design was inspired by the gauges made for the Bloodhound SSC attempting to set a new land speed record. The dial would get Arabic numerals representing each five-minute segment, save for the 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions, which showed the hours. The use of green and yellow was also highly unusual to see from the brand. The reference 126900 was immediately polarizing thanks to its unconventional design, and for the fact that it was built within the rather chunky Milgauss case.
In what came as a surprise to some, in 2022, Rolex doubled down on this dial design, releasing an updated reference in an entirely new case. Further, this new case (which is excellent) is found only in this somewhat esoteric reference. This is the reference 126900, and it’s a surprisingly compelling watch if you view the dial design favorably. This example from Bob’s Watches is listed in excellent condition, and comes as a full kit. This reference also gets the updated 3230 movement, bringing the Chronergy escapement and the increased accuracy that comes with it.
Please note that we are not affiliated with the sellers of the watches we recommend. We may point out aspects of a listing that we feel are positive, but only you can vet a seller. We can recommend viewing our video “How to Collect It: Vintage Watches” to glean some best practices, however.
