Are scalp treatments the real secret to swishy, shiny hair?
I’m sitting in the basement of Gustav Fouche’s flagship Westbourne Grove salon, towel around my shoulders, steaming cup of tea in front of me, ready for an hour of pampering. Only rather than my hair itself being tended to this time, my scalp is instead the subject of attention during their Scalp Salon Detox.
It kicks off with an examination via a microscope. I find the close-up sight of my scalp beamed onto the screen before me a little confronting; waxy and pale, it’s hardly an area of outstanding beauty and I wonder what the benefit of being so closely acquainted with its appearance is. “The scalp is the cradle of good hair,” I’m told, “and knowing what’s happening here can help us to solve any hair issues.”
As the hairdresser parts my hair in different places to accommodate the microscope, I wait with bated breath for the verdict, then beam like an expectant parent being told there are 10 fingers and 10 toes when they confirm that all is in good condition, that nothing is obstructing hair growth or causing skin issues on the surface.
Use your head
That doesn’t signal the end of the treatment, mind. Sure, if I were suffering from inflammation, flakiness, or a build-up of product, the next steps and aftercare would be catered towards them, but a whole part of this scalp care shebang is about a comprehensive head massage to prompt circulation, after which hair is washed and dried on low heat (increasingly a trend I very much welcome that is being incorporated by hair health-conscious salons).
These scalp spa treatments are popping up all over London. Inspired by Japanese head spas, which can employ more than 20 steps to cleanse and care for the neglected scalp in the belief that doing so will foster an optimum environment for healthy hair growth, you can treat your scalp anywhere from Cloud Twelve in Notting Hill to Leonor Greyl at Michaeljohn Salon in Chelsea to Maison Sisley and Philip Kingsley Trichological Clinic in Mayfair.
It’s not just in salons that the scalp is big news; thanks to the “skinification” of haircare, alongside the pandemic, where wellbeing and self-care came to the fore , scalp products have become prevalent. According to the NPD Group, in 2020, scalp products saw a 27 per cent increase in sales, with a quarter of hair care launches citing scalp care on packaging.
Hidden hero
Is it all marketing, a clever way to make us invest in yet another step, to add yet another focus? Award-winning salon owner Michael Van Clarke thinks, if anything, the scalp taking centre stage is overdue. “It’s easy to forget the scalp because it’s hidden, but it really affects hair quality. If the scalp is inflamed or aggravated, or if the pores are compacted with plastics and silicones which can build up and almost suffocate the hair follicle, the quality of your hair will suffer, and it’ll be weaker.”
Scandinavian Bbiolabs co-founder Anders Reckendorff agrees, adding that “healthy scalps are crucial for healthy hair. It’s where everything starts. Our scalp provides not only the necessary nutrients but also acts as an incubatory environment that fosters new hair regrowth. Like plants need good soil, your hair needs a healthy scalp.”
Top tips
How precisely should fastidious scalp students go about caring for theirs, I ask him. “There are four steps,” he tells me. “Start with moisturising and using a sulphate-free shampoo, as sulphates can strip the hair and scalp of moisture causing further dryness and irritation. Next, avoid hot water while cleansing hair as it causes further dehydration of the scalp, so lukewarm is better. Scalp massage is important as it means the scalp is getting blood flow and therefore the oxygen and nutrient delivery it needs for hair follicles to thrive — try incorporating it after applying shampoo using light pressure in circular motions for five minutes. Finally, use targeted treatments if needed to help nurture hair follicles and stimulate blood flow to encourage hair growth and reduce hair shedding, while strengthening the hair.”
