The return of Jude Law, aged 51
Amidst the tumbling bouquets and acres of herbaceous borders on the gowns – the theme at this year’s Met Gala being ‘Garden of Time’ – it’s easy for the men to get lost in the theatrics. No matter how sharp a sleek black tuxedo may be, it’s almost impossible to hold its own against a Widow Twankey ballgown sprouting gardenias halfway down Fifth Avenue.
So hats off to Jude Law for flying the flag for men over 50 and looking absolutely the part while doing so at 51; no bells and whistles, no garlands or boughs, just presence and downplayed polish in a pristine Atelier Versace black tie ensemble.
It was his first appearance at the Met Gala in 14 years; he clearly decided to leave the silly sartorial merry-go-rounds (melting ice cube bags, dresses made of sand, anyone?) to the kids. He’s got a busy year ahead, starring in the new Star Wars TV franchise Skeleton Crew and the new Sherlock Holmes movie, so expect him back in the spotlight after letting his acting and modelling prodigy children take centre stage for a while.
There’s been an entirely commendable push in recent years for men to up the ante on the red carpet, and there was plenty of that in evidence on the night; Dan Levy in an ombre-effect Loewe suit that drizzled from corporate to joyously abundant with florals, Jonathan Bailey in a slick Loewe tuxedo with oversized corsage and Barry Keoghan turning up as the Willy Wonka of the Emerald Isle.
All rather fun, but you can forgive a man of a certain age who doesn’t want to dress like a cross between a Victorian industrialist and the Childcatcher. Law’s ensemble evokes a sense of Old Hollywood glamour – substance and immaculate form over razzamatazz, bar his patent leather shoes and sheen on the lapel – but it stands out more for what it’s not doing; no glitz, no embroidery, no flowers and less about costume and more about the man.
Versace might have a reputation for opulent, OTT style flourishes – those Elton John Medusa patterned shirts – but its style of tailoring is always solidly masculine in the classic Italian mould; strong shoulders, narrow waist, all sprezzatura machismo. So the average guy with a four- (or five-) figure budget for his tailoring will always find something immaculate and elegant courtesy of the formidable Donatella.
Of course, it helps that this particular man in question is Jude Law; he could wear one of Rishi Sunak’s shrunken suits and still look pretty phenomenal. He’s never been one to shout with his clothes: he’s steadfastly subtle, and working with the world-renowned stylist William Gilchrist he tends to favour raffish tailoring – sharp jackets with perhaps a trailing scarf, for a bohemian touch. But generally, he keeps a low-key approach. He was attending the Met Gala with his 23-year-old daughter Iris, who came wearing a high-key embroidered Versace gown, so understandably the pater familias didn’t want to overshadow his daughter’s glitzy moment.
That said, Gen Z is beginning to discover Law anew. Thanks to the success of Ripley – a new version of the Patricia Highsmith novel The Talented Mr Ripley – on Netflix, social media has been awash with the younger generation stumbling upon the mesmerising 1999 Anthony Mingella film starring Law alongside Gwyneth Paltrow and Matt Damon in the kind of clothes that should act as eternal reference points for men in summer. A few years back, he caused a stir by starring in a promo for his TV show The Young Pope striding across the Venice Lido in his teeny, tiny white trunks, looking pretty well put together in doing so.
Back on the mottled green carpet in Manhattan in 2024, it was encouraging to see men of a certain vintage having presence on the red carpet and holding their own. Law was joined by Jeff Goldblum, 71, Hugh Jackman, 55, and Tom Ford, 62, at the event, all of them in immaculate black tie. Goldblum was particularly striking; a sweeping opera coat with bow tie, gloves and evening scarf courtesy of Prada, alongside a sprinkling of gems on his lapel. What a model of septuagenarian suave. Tom Ford also referenced his own career history by wearing a plush, cherry-red velvet dinner jacket from Saint Laurent, the label he steered during the early 00s.
Fashion’s started to reclaim the older man – a demographic wildly overlooked despite them having the spending power – with Loewe enlisting Brian Cox and Anthony Hopkins and Prada enlisting Goldblum to star in campaigns and shows. Who needs comedy costumes when your wisdom and sense of self speaks volumes?
