Product toxicity apps – the beauty industry’s most confusing trend?
I’ve always sworn by chemicals to fix my skin. Spot? I drench that sucker in salicylic acid. Dry lips? I reach for the petroleum jelly. But, when a friend who regularly asks me for beauty advice said she was swearing off ‘toxic’ skincare after scanning the barcodes of her daily routine on Yuka, an app that claims to rank products based on the toxicity of their ingredients, I couldn’t believe what I was hearing.
It's no secret that beauty has seen a huge ‘clean’ movement in the last few years. Brands slap labels like ‘paraben-free’ and ‘non-toxic’ on everything, tapping into our desire for products that won’t harm our skin or the planet. With so many buzzwords flying around, it’s no wonder apps like Yuka, Think Dirty and INCI Beauty have found a fanbase. A quick scan, a green (safe) or red (hazardous) rating, and boom—you know whether your go-to moisturiser is a saint or a sinner. Simple, right? But, here’s the kicker: beauty isn’t that black and white.
Oversimplified science
“[Toxicity apps] can reduce complex science into simplistic labels and overlook the intricacies of cosmetic safety,” explains Rani Ghosh, a registered toxicologist. Common skincare ingredients like parabens are often flagged as unsafe, but why? “Parabens are the most misunderstood chemicals of all time,” says Rani. “While they can mimic oestrogen in lab studies, the concentrations used in cosmetics are extremely low and have been deemed safe by regulatory bodies including the EU’s SCCS. Initial concerns about parabens arose from a 2004 study, which has since been discredited, but the public's perception remains influenced by this outdated research.”
My friend is adamant these apps and their claims are backed by credible scientific studies and at a glance that rings true but, dig a little deeper and it feels a bit hazy. “These sources are misinterpreted and misunderstood,” says Sam Farmer, cosmetic chemist and creator of Sam Farmer Professional Personal Care. “It takes years of experience to extrapolate data, understand methodology, subjectively review the information and then interpret the conclusions.”
Many experts will argue that singling out an ingredient, like parabens, as potentially harmful is over-simplifying the science. “Parabens are a preservative added to skincare but they’re also present in nature,” says Farmer. “They are in fruit, vegetables and green tea. We ingest them every day. Eating parabens but believing they present a danger to our bodies is illogical.” So, remove preservatives and what are you left with? “Without preservatives, products can spoil quickly, leading to skin infections or health issues,” explains Ghosh.
Down to dosage
Quizzing my friend on why she believed natural to be better, she couldn’t really give a straight answer. Enter the ‘appeal to nature’ idea, a concept where people assume natural is good and therefore unnatural is bad. But one of the most basic principles in toxicology is ‘the dose makes the poison’ something pretty applicable to many things in life. Take basic hydration – drinking water is great, but excessive hydration can give rise to serious health risks. The same could be said for skincare ingredients including phthalates, another preservative toxicity apps don’t approve of.
“Phthalates are often criticised as endocrine-disruptors (EDCs) and have stirred public concern due to their association with hormonal disruptions in animal studies,” says Ghosh. “However, the levels of phthalates used in cosmetics are strictly regulated. Diethyl phthalate (DEP) is used in many product formulations and isn’t considered harmful at low concentrations, but major cosmetic brands have removed phthalates from their products altogether to avoid negative perceptions. This is despite regulatory approvals, highlighting the influence of public opinion.”
But does applying a cream containing phthalates daily for months or years have an accumulative effect? “When assessing the safety of ingredients, we consider how much you’re using the product and toxicologists use a risk assessment process to ensure safety limits are met with real-life habits, whether you’re applying something daily, weekly or monthly,” says Ghosh. “We also take into account the fact you might be using other products with the same ingredient present and this ensures their safety long term.”
An important area to discuss potentially harmful skincare ingredients is during cancer diagnosis, something I have first-hand experience of when someone close to me was diagnosed with breast cancer. Reputable charities offer incredible resources for those undergoing treatment but with some highlighting the dangers of ingredients like EDCs in cosmetics, it’s easy to feel confused. “Charities often take a ‘better safe than sorry’ approach, especially when advising vulnerable groups like cancer patients,” explains Ghosh. “While scientific consensus may deem certain EDCs safe at the levels found in cosmetics, charities prioritise minimising any potential risks, even if there’s no conclusive evidence of harm in humans."
“As toxicologists, we focus on evidence-based evaluations, but we also understand that emotional peace of mind plays a role in how individuals choose products, particularly when facing significant health concerns,” she adds.
Where product toxicity apps can be useful is for users looking to avoid specific ingredients that are problematic for their skin, whether that’s allergies or blocked pores. “I have seen patients who have used apps to choose skincare for acne-prone skin,” says consultant dermatologist Dr Derrick Phillips. “They can help you avoid comedogenic ingredients and prevent breakouts. On the other hand, I’ve also seen heightened ingredient anxiety where the apps have encouraged patients to use products that were not suitable for their skin type.”
In 2024, consumers are hyper-aware of marketing spiel and some users argue the apps are more reliable than brands or brand-owners peddling sales. “While apps are appealing for their perceived objectivity and easy access, they still reflect the values and risk tolerances of their developers, therefore it is difficult to say that they are truly objective,” says Dr Phillips.
When was spoke to Yuka app founder about this feature, she said; “Yuka is a mission-driven company. Our primary goal is to raise consumer awareness about the composition of products in order to help them make better choices for their health and the planet, while also serving as a lever to encourage companies to improve the transparency and quality of their products. We select only the most reliable independent studies, and our analysis is based on the latest scientific research on each of the ingredients."
“There is often confusion between brands, toxicologists and research and development teams,” said Jean-Cristophe Janicot, Founder of INCI Beauty when we contacted him. “At INCI Beauty we use up-to-date research to analyse ingredients used in a product’s formula to determine whether they are environmentally-friendly and safe for use.”
Lily Tse, Founder and CEO of Think Dirty said, “Think Dirty was founded to make ingredient information in personal care products easier to access and understand. Our mission is to empower consumers with transparency, offering them tools to make choices that align with their values and concerns. We rate products according to the strictest standards, including EU cosmetic regulations. While our app isn’t a substitute for professional advice, it’s designed to help consumers make informed choices by providing greater visibility into ingredient data.”
With so many beauty lovers using these apps, I wanted to see the other side of the debate. So, I also reached out to clean beauty advocate Chantelle Thompson, who stirred up controversy when a video of her claiming that certain SPFs were toxic, went viral. “I don't believe that scientific studies should be our only source of information,” says Thompson. “Many studies within the beauty and pharmaceutical industries can be biased, often funded by large corporations with vested interests. I believe apps like Yuka empower and educate users to make informed choices about their health and beauty products. I, along with many other conscious consumers, choose not to apply synthetic chemicals to our skin that could potentially affect our health, whether the risk is small or large.”
While I’m more inclined to trust toxicologists and doctors, my friend remains sceptical, proving this debate ultimately comes down to who you believe and where your trusted information comes from. As someone who’s always advocated for science-backed skincare, I’ll continue to do so, but whether my friends change their own opinions on these apps is another matter entirely. I’ll keep you posted.
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