Perimenopause wreaked havoc on my hair – here’s how I got my shine back

My hair and I have been through a lot together. To say it has defined my appearance over the years is no exaggeration. In my teens it was my calling card, the first thing people would notice about me. Long, wildly curly and dark. In my twenties I learnt how to do it ‘properly’, having started my career as a beauty journalist and absorbing all the expert knowledge I was able to share with my readers and apply to my own styling regime.

And then, just as I entered my thirties, I lost all of it. An aggressive course of chemotherapy to treat a shock breast cancer diagnosis. I shaved it to save myself the agony of watching it fall out, and for the next six months I struggled to look in the mirror – it is incredible how losing your hair equals losing your identity. My appearance was generic cancer victim and I longed to get back to looking like the me that I felt like. Hair really is that impactful.

Out the other side I learned to appreciate mine in a different way, and we have been on great terms ever since. Except, over the last six or so months, we’ve fallen out a bit. Suddenly, unexpectedly I cannot control it. The shine has gone, and my usual repertoire of products cannot get it back.

The texture has changed, it’s kind of coarse even after styling, and then the style just drops out. As an ‘expert’ it’s driving me crazy. There are so many variables, products, causes, hormones and conflicting advice floating around but underlying all of it is a ringing in my ears of the mid-forties self-diagnosis buzzword right now: perimenopause.

So is that it? Am I done with having nice hair? Or can I do some investigative anti-ageing and regain some trust? (And some shine would be nice too.)

First stop is to test my hypothesis with my hairdresser Larry King. I am lucky enough to have been his client since we met through work ten years ago. I sit in his chair. “Larry, I think my hair is perimenopausal”.

He tells me he is getting a lot more clients coming in with the same concerns recently – it seems the knowledge-blasting about the perimenopause is heightening our awareness of the impact it can have on our physiology – hair health included.

Hormonal shifts

But how do we know if these changes are down to the gradual decline in oestrogen and progesterone production that happens when our ovaries start to, well, stop? Yes, according to leading aesthetic doctor Dr. David Jack. “The scalp and hair follicles are particularly sensitive to hormonal change, since oestrogen has an important role in promoting hair density and strength,” he says.

“As its levels drop in the lead up to the menopause, hair growth can slow, the individual strands may become finer, and the scalp can feel drier due to reducing sebum levels. The gradual reduction of keratin, the protein that gives hair its structure, also results in a rougher texture. Greying is largely due to oxidative stress on the scalp, which accelerates as oestrogen wanes.”

I am experiencing all of these things, so Larry and I tackle the symptoms. First, the dryness. He tells me it’s not as bad as I think, but I’ve been handling it all wrong.

“Stay away from protein and bonding products. They can make it worse.” I had been using keratin masks that claim to rebuild or strengthen my hair, but it’s not actually damaged or chemically processed, it’s just really thirsty. “Protein overload makes it more dry and brittle.” Essentially a build up of too much protein can form a barrier to stop moisture getting into the hair shaft. And just like my skin ageing calls for a different, more extensive repertoire of products (usually richer ones) my hair needs the same.

Larry recommends a really hydrating conditioner and hair oil after every wash. I’d never thought I could be a hair oil devotee – it feels counter intuitive – but seeing and feeling the marked difference in using Larry’s Spoilt For Choice Oil (a blend of rosemary, jojoba, argan oil and squalene) from root to tips before letting my hair air dry (he told me to keep heat styling down to a minimum too) I’m sold. It’s a tiny addition, a small improvement in softness and shine, but an encouraging start. We also discuss going shorter because literally lighter hair will stop it dragging the roots down – an optical illusion to counteract the loss of volume. I’m still thinking about it.

How to handle menopausal hair

For the purposes of research and a fully qualified diagnosis I book in to see renowned trichologist Hannah Gaboardi at her Nobu residency. I downplay my concerns while she scans my scalp and quickly tells me what the real issue is. “Androgenetic alopecia.”

Otherwise known as Female Pattern Hair Loss (FPHL). Um, what? “Yours is genetic,” she said. “Is there any history of hair loss in your family?” My dad lost all his hair in his early twenties, and Hannah tells me that you can inherit these genes from either parent. However, it’s not quite as terrifying as it sounds. “It’s a common form of hair loss in women, and by being aware of FPHL at an early stage, going on the correct plan in terms of medication and treatment, you can restore hair growth by 60 per cent.”

She puts me onto an over the counter topical medication, Minoxidil, which widens blood vessels to stimulate and prolong the hair growth stage, and I should start to see results in three to four months. Aside from the unexpected hair loss, Hannah concurs with my perimenopausal symptoms.

“As we age, hair tends to become drier, finer, and more prone to breakage, so it often requires extra hydration, strengthening, and gentle handling. Red light laser therapy also helps stimulate hair growth and scalp health.”

Dr. Jack uses the CurrentBody hair LED mask, £650: “It’s non-invasive, and the laser cap stimulates blood flow to the scalp, which can help reactivate the follicles and encourage new growth.”

CurrentBody hair LED mask, £650, CurrentBody

Turn your texture around

Whilst it’s not possible to reverse the hair ageing process, there are some incredibly positive changes that can be made to improve the visible effects of it, particularly when it comes to texture and strength.

“The most important positive change is to have a nourishing and protective hair shaft product routine, to help maintain hair health, alongside regular trims,” Hannah tells me. “It is also important to maintain your iron and vitamin levels to reduce any hair loss. I recommend UKHAIR vitamins, £20, packed with a string of antioxidants, biotin, Vitamin C+E, and folic acid which can contribute towards achieving longer and healthier hair.”

UKHAIR vitamins, £20, UKlash

Around 60 per cent of us in the UK live in a hard water area. Hard water can lead to a build up of mineral deposits on the hair, which can block follicles leading to thinning, and coat the hair shaft forming a barrier to moisture, resulting in dullness and more frizz. I installed the Hello Klean Hard Water Filter Shower Head 2.0, £65 and it made the quickest difference to my hair texture, I cannot recommend it enough.

Hello Klean Hard Water Filter Shower Head 2.0, £65, Hello Klean

Finally, a microfibre towel can make a big difference to your washing routine. Not only does it absorb moisture very quickly, speeding up drying time, it also offers a reduction in static and breakage. Try the Noughty Little Saviour Microfibre Hair Towel, £13.99.

Noughty Little Saviour Microfibre Hair Towel, £13.99, Noughty

Top Hair Routine Products

Wash with:

Nioxin No.2 Scalp & Hair Thickening System, £42.75, Boots

With niacinamide and biotin to minimise the risk of breakage, clear build up and add volume.

Hydrate with:

Shu Uemura Art Of Hair Ultimate Reset Mask, £55, Paul Edmonds

A superior mask for intense nourishing, manageability, core repair and a sleeker finish.

Boost with:

UKHAIR Growth Serum, £29, UKlash

Creates the perfect environment for growth and healthier-looking hair, from the science behind the renowned number one lash serum.

Protect with:

Color Wow Extra Strength Dream Coat Ultra Moisturizing Anti Frizz Treatment, £32, Colour Wow

Great for dry hair, heat activated, anti-humidity and with full heat protection benefits.

Finish with:

Larry King Spoilt For Choice Hair Oil, £28, Cult Beauty

A truly nourishing multi-tasker, apply from mid lengths to ends for intense smoothness and hydration (and a beautiful scent).