No place like Holm: a first look at Somerset’s new restaurant with rooms
Somerset has long been a favourite for the London weekend crowd – drawn, no doubt, by the prospect of engaging in a bit of rural cosplay by day, before retiring to chic, contemporary lodgings for a good evening feed and an expertly made Negroni or three. You can thank Babington House for popularising this more modern, more urbanised take on the country escape when it launched in 1998, and in its wake numerous similar properties have followed suit, in the process putting the county on the map as a cooler alternative to the Cotswolds.
Holm is the latest reason to make that lengthy pilgrimage down the M3. Having first established itself as one of the South-West’s finest places to eat, courtesy of chef and owner Nicholas Balfe, it now offers diners the chance to sleep off that hangover in very smart fashion indeed thanks to seven newly opened bedrooms upstairs.
Where is it?
You can be forgiven for not knowing South Petherton. While Frome and Bruton in the north of the county are well established on the DFL circuit, this picturesque rural community in deepest south Somerset is yet to be overrun by the Chelsea tractor brigade – which is no bad thing. You’ll find Holm in the middle of the golden-hued sandstone village, occupying a former Merchant's house within easy trot of a local pub, artisan florist, café and a rather lovely wine bar cum deli, which is just across the road.
Style
Dreamt up by interior architects Gundry and Ducker and executed to a tee, the hygge-meets-hipster aesthetic of the restaurant – still the beating heart of Holm - combines rural homeliness (think Hebridean hogget sheepskins, plush drapes and wood-burning stoves) with the kind of industrial-chic accents you’d expect in an east-London gastro-warehouse, including polished concrete flooring and exposed brickwork. The artwork is particularly well curated: eye-catching abstract pastels that further enhance the country-contemporary feel; while in the bedrooms, the focus is on design-led comfort, with mid-century furniture and layered textiles and prints creating an earthy toned cocoon.
Food and drink
When Holm first opened its dining room in 2021, it caused quite a stir. The first rural outpost from the trio of restaurateurs behind Brixton’s Salon and Levan in Peckham, south Somerset was treated to a version of the same refined-yet-laid-back modern-European playbook that Londoners have come to know and love from those previous ventures. Since launch, the three business partners have separated, leaving Nicholas Balfe in sole charge, but if fans of the former band’s greatest hits are worried, they needn’t be. The cooking at Holm compares favourably indeed to its predecessors – with a focus on top-notch and sustainable, local ingredients lending an additional layer of authenticity and deliciousness. Creedy Carver duck from over the border in Devon married with spiced quince and carrot is a delight, while Westcombe cheddar fries –an ever-present in a regularly changing selection – are close to culinary crack. And if there’s a better-value tasting menu to be found anywhere at £59, we’re yet to discover it.
The drinks offering is perfectly curated for down-from-London hipsters too, with its small batch wine-list, including a section of orange numbers, naturally, and expertly concocted cocktails; while honourable mention must go to breakfast. Granola, pear compote and Dorset yoghurt are followed by a soft-boiled egg, hash brown, seasonal greens, tangy, homemade ketchup and a choice of either cured pork belly (yum), smoked trout or tamari glazed mushrooms. It’s quite possibly the best British hotel breakfast this reviewer has enjoyed since Le Manoir, and proof that less is most certainly more when it comes to breaking the fast.
Extracurricular
South Petherton is well positioned for a tour of Somerset’s must-sees, with Bruton’s array of boutiques, antique shops and art galleries, hi there Hauser & Wirth, just half an hour’s drive north. The beaches of Lyme Regis on the coast are only a little further in the other direction. Closer to base, the surrounding countryside provides a fantastic backdrop for a muddy stroll. The Burrow Hill Cider Distillery, rightly considered a local institution, is about an hour’s walk, as is the Barrington Boar, a charming country pub with a super menu. Both options offer ample incentive to navigate those country lanes.
Which room?
Of the seven bedrooms – each named after a British tree – Elm is the largest, and also dog friendly. Your furry pal will love the Scandi-inflected modern-rustic aesthetic, with four poster bed and free-standing bath, natural woods and local stone, sheepskins and hand-knitted rugs, all combining in stylish, yet homely fashion. A well-curated mini-bar of local treats and surprisingly well-proportioned bathroom, which includes a double shower and Haeckels products, complete the package.
Holm identifies as a restaurant with rooms, which is, we’d say, a little bit of an undersell. Frankly, you’d be delighted to find such luxuriously-appointed and smartly designed sleeping spaces in any country hotel.
Best for
A refined, yet laid-back weekend gastro-pilgrimage to Somerset.
Details
Stays start from £140 per night B&B, 28 St James's St, South Petherton; holmsomerset.co.uk
