From Louis Vuitton to TAG Heuer: Every Watch From LVMH Watch Week
LVMH Watch Week has officially kicked off in New York City (and Paris) today after a quick-switch change of venues. The annual event—showcasing the latest watchmaking releases from everyone from Louis Vuitton, TAG Heuer, Daniel Roth, Gérald Genta, and Bulgari to Tiffany & Co, Hublot, and Zenith—was originally set to take place in Los Angeles, but due to the devastating wildfires, the luxury conglomerate wisely decided to switch gears at the last minute to host its big event in the Big Apple. It couldn’t have been an easy pivot, but it was the right thing to do. Unfortunately, New York City is experiencing a dump of snow and frigid temperatures, but the show must go on. The good news it there are plenty of noteworthy new timepieces to talk about.
Some of the trends that emerged from the releases included: a focus on gem setting, chronographs galore, and sophisticated tweaks to timeless icons. That meant everything from a TAG Heuer chronograph outfitted in diamonds to Bulgari Serpentis equipped with a serious new movement to a sophisticated new look for Louis Vuitton’s Spin Time. Speaking of Louis Vuitton, the company has typically been known for some rather bombastically-styled watches, but this time around there appeared to be a more subdued approach with a vibe that felt like it was meant to catch the savvy collector’s eye and it was a welcome surprise. From the toned-down vibe of the Spin Time to two ultra-cool versions of a guichet watch (a guichet is a ticket office window in French and the watch thus has openings for the hour and minutes that resemble the small window openings of a ticket office). They are elegant and resemble the kind of thing that collectors are swiping up on the secondary market. And, wisely, the Louis Vuitton logo was kept small on this timepiece offering a simple and sophisticated new look for Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking—a new direction refreshingly spearheaded by Jean Arnault, the 26-year-old director of watches at Louis Vuitton and the son of LVMH scion, Bernard Arnault.
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Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time
An update to a Louis Vuitton watchmaking icon, the Tambour Taiko Spin Time uses an in-house movement developed by La Fabriques du Temps, a manufacture owned entirely by L.V. since 2011. The crux of the Spin Time’s system is a series of 12 rotating jump hour displays based upon the flap-type departure boards at airports and railway stations. On the new Spin Time models, dolphin grey-colored hours are shown by default—when the appropriate hour comes around, the index flips 90 degrees to display a light-grey version of the appropriate number. Available in 39.5 and 42.5 mm sizes, the six references are housed in 18-karat white gold Tambour Taiko cases, the smaller of which feature solid casebacks and the larger of which feature sapphire display casebacks. Depending upon the execution, the dials might be finished in either sunburst or hawk’s eye patterns, while grey-blue “hawk’s eye” quartz dial color is common amongst all references. The new Taiko case, meanwhile—named for the Japanese drum—is the maison‘s most complex case shape yet and includes integrated lugs and a slimmed-down profile. Available in diamond-studded versions; “Air” versions with suspended, floating displays; tourbillon-equipped versions; and a stunning travel version called Tambour Taiko Spin Time Air Antipode, the Taiko Spin Time is easily one of the most exciting watch releases of 2025 thus far.
Price: N/A
Case Material: White gold
Size: 39.5-42.5 mm
Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription
Hot on the heels of the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription, the new Extra Plat Souscription introduces a two-hand dress watch with a particularly thin case in the brand’s typically elegant double-ellipse silhouette. A faithful recreation of a model developed by Daniel Roth himself in the early 1990s, the watch features 18-karat yellow gold construction with a matching yellow gold dial with clous de Paris decoration. While its dimensions mirror those of the Tourbillon model at 35.5 mm wide by 38.6 mm in length, its case depth is just 7.70 mm tall owing to a movement thickness of only 3.1 mm. The dial, meanwhile, requires more than 10 hours of work for the guillochage alone, which is done by hand on a series of antique lathes and then printed in a deep blue color with Roman numerals and the brand’s signature. Inside, the DR002 automatic movement—the second caliber developed by La Fabriques du Temps for Daniel Roth—boasts incredible finishing and a 65-hour power reserve. A limited edition of 20 pieces, the Extra Plat Souscription will soon be joined by a new Extra Plat model within the standard Daniel Roth catalog.
Price: N/A
Case Material: Yellow gold
Size: 35.5 mm
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph & Chronograph Tourbillon
Certain watches are so well designed that virtually any dial color or aesthetic tweak is bound to look good, and the Carrera Chronograph Glassbox is one such watch. This year, TAG Heuer is borrowing the purple gradient dial from the 2022 Heuer Monaco Chronograph and applying it to the Glassbox model, creating a racing chronograph in a unique and compelling colorway. The watch’s dimensions—39 mm wide by 13.86 mm tall—will no doubt already be familiar to most fans of the brand, as will the TH20-00 automatic movement with 33 jewels and an 80-power reserve that’s visible from a sapphire caseback.
But the dial is really the star of the show here: Executed in a smoky gradient effect, it changes from inky black at the edges to deep purple at the center, while a sunray finish reflects light in a dynamic and eye-catching visual dance. Black azuré subdial scales feature silver accents for legibility, while a black outer flange with silver indices features a tachymeter scale as well as an inner 1/5th-seconds track. Paired to a perforated black rallye-style strap with purple calfskin lining on the reverse, it’s sure to be a hit within the Carrera Chronograph lineup.
NOTE: If you love the idea of a purple Carrera Chronograph but fancy something with a bit more horological heft, you might consider the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Purple. Measuring 42 mm by 14.3 mm in stainless steel, it switches out the 6 o’clock running seconds sundial on the regular Chronograph for a one-minute tourbillon powered by the brand’s Heuer 02 TH20-09 automatic movement with 65 hours of power reserve. Boasting 100m of water resistance, it carries a price of CHF 34,000.
Price: 6,500 CHF
Case Material: Stainless steel
Size: 36 mm
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye
One of the more natural-feeling automotive partnerships in the horological world is that between TAG Heuer and Porsche, which celebrates its fifth anniversary this year. (The flagship products of each brand, dubbed “Carrera,” share an inspiration in the form of the Carrera Panamericana, the historic, dangerous race that took place in Mexico in the 1950s.) The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph X Porsche Rallye, available in both stainless steel and yellow gold iterations, takes inspiration from the 1965 Monte Carlo Rally, the competitive debut of the then-new Porsche 911 — which, of course, featured dashboard timing instruments manufactured by Heuer. Fitted in a Carrera Glassbox case, the new watch features a special Porsche-signed black dial flange with the first 8.4 seconds demarcated in red—a reference to the 0-100 km/h time achieved by the Porsche 911 car #147 in competition at Monte Carlo in 1965. The TH20-08 automatic movement, meanwhile, packs a special feature in which the first 15 seconds of the 6 o’clock totalizer are completed at an accelerated rate before slowing to complete a one-minute interval in perfect time.
Price: 10,000 CHF (steel); 24,000 CHF (gold)
Case Material: Stainless steel; 18K 3N yellow gold
Size: 42 mm
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph
Back in 1986, the Formula 1 collection introduced a new generation of young watch collectors to the then-new TAG Heuer name. (Techniques d’Avant Garde acquired Heuer in 1985.) For many years, its quartz-powered movements provided a more affordable entry point into the Heuer universe — indeed, they still do. In 2025, however, the brand is expanding its Formula 1 offering in time with its renewed sponsorship of Formula 1 racing with a brand-new set of mechanical chronographs. A freshly designed 44 mm titanium case features various automotive cues, from a micro-beaded bezel inspired by brake discs to applied indices shaped to mimic the front of F1 cars. (Ergonomics have also been duly considered, with a lug-to-lug length that promises on-wrist comfort when paired to each watch’s rubber strap.) Available in four standard iterations as well as a special Red Bull Racing variant, the Formula 1 Chronograph has an aluminum tachymeter bezel, shaped pushers, a lacquered crown ring, and an inner dial flange inscribed with a 1/5th-seconds scale in white. Powered by the brand’s automatic Caliber 16 movement, it boasts a triple-register chronograph with a date window at 3 o’clock. Simultaneously avant-garde yet familiar, this new model—priced right around the $5,000 mark—should do for the Formula 1 collection what the Glassbox did for the Carrera collection.
Price: 4,600-5,300 CHF
Case Material: Titanium
Size: 44 mm
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph
This scaled-down, punched-up version of the Carrera Chronograph is an example of how the “shrink it and pink it” philosophy can be a good thing when done correctly. These pink and blue versions of TAG’s classic chrono offer a few upscale features that remind us the Carrera is a luxury watch, in addition to being a sporty timekeeper. These dressed-up versions offer versatility for all ocassions.
The circular brushed finish is one detail that drives this home, as is the movement, the TH20-00, an evolution of the Heuer 02 movement with an 80-hour power reserve. It is also elevated by the presence and placement of diamonds on the flange and indexes, which are notably set into the curve on either side of a deep flange, originally angled that way in 1963 to enhance readability of the seconds index. Here, it emphasizes the angularity of the flange and showcases the diamonds. The straps—matching in either blue or pink—are also given an elevated, somewhat dressy finish that creates a pearlescent effect. There are two additional strap options: white or gray alligator, for those that like to mix it up. The 39 mm size (compared to the usual 42 mm) makes it wearable not just for women but also for men. With the gents increasingly wearing smaller sized watches with a touch of flare, this size can democratically work across the board for most.
Price: $8,600
Case Material: Steel
Case Size: 39 mm wide x 13.86 mm thick
Tiffany & Co. Eternity by Tiffany Wisteria
Tiffany’s Eternity timepieces have been seeing a bit of the spotlight recently—most notably on Dwayne Wade’s sizeable wrist when he attended the Academy Museum Gala last Fall in a 28 mm all-black version of the model accented with diamonds. Given the company’s success in outfitting male A-listers in its jewels and watches that were previously thought of as ladies’ pieces, we expect the Eternity model to continue to rise. The latest version is something special: taking after Tiffany’s stained glass lamps, in particular its Wisteria lamp, the dial of this timepiece replicates the motif of the household design item in droplets of enamel in shades of green and blue.
Executed in plique-à-jour enamel—a particular version of the craft where metal apertures are filled with transparent enamel to allow light to reflect through the dial plate. Each dial of this very limited timepiece is made by hand and then topped off the diamond hour markers in various cuts from Ascher-cut to heart-shaped and Tiffany True-cut. Consider it the ultimate ice-breaker for any party.
Price: Upon Request
Case Material: 18-karat white gold
Case Size: 38 mm
Tiffany & Co. Carat 128 Aquamarine
Taking after Tiffany & Co.’s endless marketing machine, the Tiffany diamond (the 128.54-carat cushion shaped fancy yellow diamond once worn by Beyonce and others), the faceted shape of the Tiffany blue cushion-cut 35.23-carat Aquamarine is reminiscent of the house’s premiere stone. But here, the Aquamarine sits atop a dial executed in 382 diamonds in five sizes arranged in a snow setting. They appear to almost blend into the five-row diamond-set bracelet which takes its inspiration from another big-time Tiffany hallmark—the trademarked Tiffany Setting diamond engagement ring. The 251 brilliant diamonds totaling 28 carats is set with diamonds of three different diameters, the 60 largest of which weigh 20 carats and come with their own serial numbers. Even the crown is set with not one but nine round brilliant diamonds.
This piece, of course, has little to do with horology and is, instead, a successful showstopper piece meant to show off Tiffany’s jewelry-making prowess.
Price: Upon Request
Case Material: 18-karat white gold
Size: 27 mm
Jean Schlumberger by Tiffany Twenty Four Stone
Taking after Jean Schlumberger’s Sixteen Stone collection from 1959, this sizeable jewelry watch features the mid-century designer’s recognizable cross-stitch motif in 18-karat yellow gold around a rotating ring. Other than the 18-karat yellow gold hands they are the sole dash of contrast in a watch otherwise dripping in diamonds over every surface save for its Tiffany blue alligator leather strap. It’s set with 707 diamonds totaling over 6.7 carats.
The ring of cross-stitch Xs spins as the wearer moves the wrist while the central disc featuring the hands and Tiffany & Co. logo remained fixed. It may seem like a straightforward and fun expression of a jewelry watch, but the rotating ring alone took 25 hours of work just to cast and mount the gold crosses and the diamonds. The dimensions of the mold for the gold crosses alone must be accurate to within a fraction of a milimeter. In total, each iteration of this very limited timepiece takes Tiffany’s goldsmiths and stone setters 80 hours of work, so you can expect to see very few out in the wild anytime soon.
Price: Upon Request
Case Material: 18-karat white gold
Case Size: 39 mm
Jean Schlumberger by Tiffany Bird on a Rock
Few designs once relegated to old society’s grand dame’s jewelry boxes have made such an astounding comeback as Tiffany’s Bird on a Rock. The brooches have been worn on red carpets, mostly by men, from everyone such as Michael B. Jordan to Jeremy Allen White and Justin Theroux have rocked the bird on their lapel. And Tiffany is keen on keeping it’s feathered friend in the spotlight. Most recently a giant art installation version was revealed during the holidays at the house’s Fifth Avenue boutique in New York City.
Now its mascot is swooping in for LVMH watch week on a diamond and tsavorite-set jewelry watch. Like the Twenty Four Stone watch, it also features a rotating ring, but this time it’s set with 36 baguette-cut tasvorites totaling 5.4 carats. It spins beneath the diamond and yellow-gold set bird at 6 o’clock. It is otherwise snow-set with 413 round brilliant diamonds totaling 4 carats. The case alone requires 55 hours of gem-setting.
The caseback is equally decorated: It is engraved with a sunburst pattern inspired by Schlumberger’s other iconic design, Floral Arrows. It is powered by the self-winding Swiss Calibre LTM 2100, which has 38 hours of power reserve. Another version will be available in a fully diamond pavé version (the picture was not available as of press time).
This year, Schlumberger’s Bird on a Rock design is celebrating its 60th anniversary, so you can expect to see more birds take flight in Tiffany collections throughtout the year.
Price: Upon Request
Case Material: 18-karat white gold
Case Size: 39 mm
Bulgari Seduttori Automatic
The BVS100 Solotempo is a new automatic movement that Bulgari says was three years in development and will be rolled out across a range of LVMH watch brands. Its main feature is its slim profile, and in that sense it reflects Bulgari’s mastery of micro-scale watchmaking as the holder of several world records for small movements. The BVS100 takes the concept and puts it into practical use with an automatic movement designed specifically to accommodate ladies-sized watches. It follows in the footsteps of other ultra-slim movements for women including Jaeger-LeCoultre’s famous caliber 101, which has served as a go-to tiny manual-wind caliber for ladies’ cocktail and jeweled watches since 1929, except that the BVS100 is automatic. Bulgari says it created the BVS100 because “no other movement on the market meets the size and volume criteria required to fit perfectly within the shape of the Serpenti head motif case.” It measures 19 mm in diameter and 3.90 mm thick (the manual-wound JLC 101 measures 14 mm x 4.8 mm).
Although the movement was developed at Bulgari’s Le Sentier workshop, it is being manufactured by Zenith at its movement manufacture in Le Locle, and Bulgari says it will be included in the future catalog of in-house movements available to other LVMH group brands.
Since this is the Chinese year of the snake, Bulgari has chosen to debut the BVL100 in the Serpenti collection, in Seduttori and Tubogas models.
Price: TBC
Case Material: Red gold, yellow gold, white gold, two-tone gold and steel or steel
Case Size: 34 mm; Tubogas 35 mm
Bulgari Seduttori Automatic
The Seduttori featuring the BSV100 Solotempo movement is available in rose or yellow gold, two-tone gold and steel or steel, all with diamond bezels.
Price: TBC
Case Material: Red gold, yellow gold, white gold, two-tone gold and steel or steel
Case Size: 35 mm
Bulgari Seduttori Automatic
The Bulgari Seduttori with the new BSV100 Solotempo automatic movement will also come in two fully gem-set iterations in white or yellow gold, fully set with diamonds on the case, dial, and bracelet.
Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas
The Tubogas models featuring the new BVS100 Solotempo automatic movement are rose gold, with either a single or double-tour bracelet. The new movement can be seen through the open caseback, with a rotor decorated in a serpent-scale pattern.
Price: TBC
Case Size: 35 mm
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Rainbow
The rainbow-themed horological party continues well into 2025 with the debut of the Chronomaster Sport Rainbow in white gold. What could be construed as the brand’s answer to the “Rainbow” Daytona, the new ref. 45.3104.3600/21.M3100 is a triple-register chronograph housed in a 41 mm white gold case with alternating brushed and polished surfaces, a matching white gold multi-link bracelet with a double-folding clasp, and 100m of water resistance. But you don’t really want to hear about all that— what you need to know is that this beauty’s bezel is fitted with 50 baguette-cut gemstones: While a rainbow array of 40 colored sapphires surround the dial, 10 white diamonds punctuate the bezel in accordance with 1/10th-second intervals, cleverly echoing the El Primero cal. 3600’s hi-beat capabilities. Roughly five carats of stones are joined by color-matched sapphire hour markers that stand out against a deep-black dial. Completed with a triple-register chronograph display in greys and blue as well as a lume-filled handset, the new Chronomaster Sport Rainbow in white gold joins an ever-growing array of riotously colorful rainbow-themed watches.
Price: $112,100
Case Material: White gold
Size: 41 mm
Zenith Defy Skeleton
Inspired by Defy models from the 1960s, the modern Defy Skyline expands upon the idea of the multi-sided case and bezel by pairing its unconventional shape with a hi-beat movement capable of measuring 1/10th of a second. Housed within a brushed and polished 42 mm case with a dodecagonal bezel is an openworked dial displaying a skeletonized version of the El Primero cal. 3600 automatic movement. Rendered in either black or blue, the movement’s main plate, bridges, and star-shaped oscillating weight are color-matched to the dial’s outer 1/10th-second track. Zoom out for a moment, and you’ll notice that the geometric bridges are arranged in a “double-Z” form in an echo of Zenith’s vintage logo. Despite all the skeletonization, however, the dial remains plenty legible thanks to large grey azuré totalizers; faceted, applied hour indices; and Super-LumiNova-coated sword hands. Paired to a stainless steel H-link bracelet, the Defy Skyline Skeleton also comes with a matching blue or black rubber strap with a stainless steel folding clasp.
Price: $15,500
Case Material: Stainless steel
Size: 42 mm
Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Green Saxem
Hublot’s neon green machine is back, and it’s packing a tourbillon movement. The transparent green SAXEM-cased watch was introduced last year with an automatic movement. Hublot launched the proprietary material in yellow in 2023. SAXEM stands for Sapphire Aluminum oXide and rare Earth Mineral, a sapphire crystal-like substance that Hublot infuses with a combination of minerals to create a fluorescent color that glows like neon.
Technically speaking, the difference between sapphire and SAXEM is that sapphire has a trigonal (three-sided) structure, while SAXEM has a cubic (four-sided) form. Hence the more intense color, like a gemstone with facets, SAXEM creates the illusion of emitting light. The new version contains Hublot’s MHUB6035 automatic tourbillon movement with a 22-karat gold micro-rotor and 72-hour power reserve. The green strap (not pictured) is made of a transparent rubber to resemble the transparent SAXEM—Hublot is good, but the talented technicians in its metallurgy and materials laboratory haven’t yet cracked the code on how to make sapphire flexible like rubber.
Price: $231,000, 18 pieces
Case Material: SAXEM
Case Size: 44 mm x 14.40 mm
Hublot Big Bang Meca-10
It’s no secret that Hublot makes big watches—the 45 mm version of the Meca-10, introduced in 2016, puts the “Big” in Big Bang. Now there’s a new version for people looking for a (slightly) scaled-down statement piece. It has the same 10-day power reserve and double-barreled movement as the original, but it measures a full 3 mm smaller in diameter.
For this version the boldness can also be turned up or down, according to which of the three case materials you choose: bold King gold (Hublot’s proprietary red gold); more subdued, lighter titanium; or frosted carbon, which, unlike layered carbon fiber sheets, has no fixed pattern, making each piece slightly different. The 42 mm proportions are more ergonomic, but the Big Bang MECA-10 retains the familiar bold silhouette. The dial proclaims the movement’s 10-day power reserve with a large power reserve indicator in its own subdial at 3 o’clock, with a big red pointer, balanced by the large balance wheel on display at 8 o’clock. The openworked architecures was inspired by Meccano-type construction systems, and the movement is galvanically colored to match each case material.
Price: $42,700 in gold; 23,000 in titanium; 27,400 in frosted carbon
Case Material: King gold, titanium or frosted carbon
Case Size: 42 mm x 13.9 mm
Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Year of the Snake
How about a high-speed snake for the wrist to celebrate Chinese New Year? As Chinese animal-themed zodiac watches go, this one is surprising subtle, in a black and gold color combination that has become a modern classic in watch design. The snake head is manifested as the arrow tip on the center seconds hand, with its 3D body woven around the subdials, culminating in a tail trailing off to the right of the subdial at 6 o’clock. The black ceramic bezel (matching the black ceramic case) is engraved in a snake-skin pattern to match the slithery grain embossed strap in rubber. The watch contains a high-frequency movement—a variation of sister-brand Zenith’s famous El Primero—oscillating at 36,000 vph, the chronograph caliber HUB4700.
Price: $35,100, 88 pieces
Case Material: Microblasted, polished black ceramic
Case Size: 42 mm x 13.9 mm
Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Chronograph
New color variations in limited editions of long time fave models are shaping up to be a trend so far this year, creating an opportunity for collectors to sport new versions of existing pieces in limited series. The chronograph version of the Spirit of Big Bang (now in its tenth year as a collection) is debuting in three new ceramic colors: sand beige, dark green and sky blue. The hour markers, chronograph counters, hands and rubber straps match the color of each case, and the hands and markers light up with Super-LumiNova. It’s powered by the high-frequency chronograph caliber HUB4700, a variation of sister-brand Zenith’s famous El Primero, oscillating at 36,000 vph.
Price: $27,400, 200 pieces in each color
Case Material: Microblasted, polished ceramic
Case Size: 42 mm x 14.1 mm
Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal
Inspired by a sea urchin he saw while on vacation in the mid-1990s, Gérald Genta sketched what would become the first Oursin (“sea urchin”) watch. Its unique aesthetic — a round case covered in small beads that mimic the sea urchin’s natural form — served as the basis for a new series of Oursin that launched in white gold, rose gold, and yellow gold models. This year, Louis Vuitton — owner of the Gérald Genta brand — is adding a further reference to the collection in the form of the Oursin Fire Opal, which features a 36mm 3N yellow gold case in a bead-blasted finish as the base to which 137 fire opal stones are individually affixed in mimicry of the sea urchin. A carnelian dial further references this rare volcanic stone — long a symbol of creativity and vitality — while a modified automatic Zenith Elite movement provides the timepiece with 50 hours of power reserve. Sitting somewhere between traditional timepiece and avant-garde jewelry, the Genitissima Oursin Fire Opal is proof of Genta’s lasting, unparalleled creative legacy.
Price: N/A
Case Material: Yellow gold
Size: 36 mm
L’Epée 1839 Watchbox
Swiss clockmaker, L’Epée, was purchased by LVMH in late June of last year. It is, perhaps, suggestive that the luxury conglomerate plans to do more objets for its brands down the road. Given how recent the acquisition went through, the company started the year with a relatively tame offering compared to what it is capable of creating (check out this Tiffany & Co. desk clock in the form of a plane, for example). A translucent watchbox—meant to offer a full view of your precious timekeeper—operates with a mechanical devide that raises the watch in a grandiose presentation to meet the viewer upon opening. Its mechanical lift system, acitvated via a push button, opens the top door and simultaneously raises the watch out of its cocoon for its big reveal. Closing the cover automatically rewinds its internal lift system. It’s a nice little showpiece for the collector who already has everything.
Price: N/A
Case Material: Inox, acrylique glass, Microfiber
Dimensions: 215 mm x 150 mm x 140 mm
