At Loewe, Jonathan Anderson Tunes Out the Noise

“What happens when one takes all the noise away?” Jonathan Anderson asked himself for spring 2025. In a world of endless distractions, it can be liberating to strip things away and simplify, a process he described in his show notes as “radical reduction.” As the designer said in our interview last year, “there is nothing more exciting than the low profile-ness of something.”

But radical reduction didn’t mean a dopamine detox, at least in this context. In a spare space anchored by a tiny Tracey Emin bird sculpture, with Ayo Edebiri and Meg Ryan in the front row, Anderson presented an adventurous collection that focused on the lines of clothing, unencumbered by added associations. With the assistance of boning and wiring, skirts swooped and dipped or extended to exaggerated widths. Swingy leather mini-capes, slick wet-pavement sequins, dresses strewn with Impressionist florals, and sculptural trousers rounded out the lineup.

His printed-feather T-shirts were a standout, featuring classical-music or Impressionist art motifs that felt like a new take on the well-worn graphic tee trope.

And the accessories were thrillingly practical. The models wore flats, including boat shoes, oxfords, and high-top sneakers called Ballet Runners. Anderson showed fresh iterations of his beloved Puzzle bag and debuted a new trapezoidal style, the Madrid. Sometimes a little simplicity is just what the doctor ordered.

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