Linda Evangelista’s 1990s Chanel jacket could be yours for a fraction of the price
Didier Ludot is sitting in Bonhams Cornette de Saint Cyr, an auction house in Paris. Behind him, mannequins are resplendent in haute couture from his imminent auction “Le Dernier Passage” (The Last Passage). It’s the end of an era for this storied collector, whose vintage boutique, nestled under the shadowy arcades of the gardens of the Royal Palace, is closing doors after 50 years. As he says farewell to Paris, fashion fans and collectors get to bid on January 30th at an auction representing the quintessence of luxury fashion, signed by Christian Dior, Pierre Balmain, Pierre Cardin, Cristóbal Balenciaga and Yves Saint Laurent (over 350 lots in all).
As decisive as Ludot was in letting only the most exceptional museum-quality pieces into his shop, he’s equally fastidious in his decision to let it all go. Sans nostalgia. A minimalist retirement in Provence beckons. “I loved my vocation,” he shrugs, comme ci, comme ca, and a shake of a Tom Conti-esque mane.
Starting out in 1974, Ludot has been central to the Paris fashion ecosystem, and his edit has attracted designers (including Marc Jacobs and Pier Paolo Piccioli), curators, collectors, Hollywood stylists and the stars themselves. “It was July, but an unusually freezing day,” he recalls. “Julia Roberts appeared,” he recounts. The incognito actress slipped in shivering and left with a check 1960’s Balenciaga coat. “I like it when people leave wearing their purchase.”
He’ll miss the chance encounters, and location – a pedestrianised haven away from the Rue de Rivoli chaos. But with a world at odds, letting go seems comfortable. Perhaps like the litany of ladies who have appeared in store with unassuming bags or suitcases filled with once prized, highly personal pieces it’s time to release – be it to debt, death or divorce.
Didier has been in covenant of many an exceptional lady. “I have met the most elegant women to walk. There’s less culture now. Less people know the difference between true and lasting,” he says protectively, a true garde nationale of French couture’s craftsmanship and heritage.
There is a lot from Yves Saint Laurent’s final couture collection of 2002 in the auction (a moment ingrained in Parisian fashion history – 2,000 were in attendance in the Centre Pompidou, with thousands more watching on a big screen outside). There are a further 80 impeccable Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture pieces from the wardrobes of Ludot’s elegant clients.
Yves Saint Laurent Winter-Fall 1995 robe, estimate: £1,700 - £2,500, Bonhams
Jean-Louis Scherrer Fall-Winter 1995 evening dress, estimate: £1,700 - £2,500, Bonhams
A few years ago people said that couture was an anachronism, but new couture customers have appeared, and sales have gone up. And, behind the scenes, vintage couture has been chicly biding time, building kudos stealthily over the last couple of decades, increasingly on the red carpet.
Take the recent Golden Globes. The archival tribe included Ariana Grande in a butter-yellow Givenchy from 1966, Anya Taylor-Joy in a blush pink slip by Dior (1998), and a heartwarming Demi Moore celebrating her first career accolade in a red 1979 Givenchy Haute Couture gown – for the after-party no less – proving that couture has real legs (and dance floor potential). Breaking the internet was Kylie Jenner in archival Versace chainmail, and coincidently, her mother Kris Jenner is a Didier Ludot client. As is (another Golden Globes nominee) Nicole Kidman.
“Nicole Kidman feels at ease with couture garments, and she knows how to live with them,” he says of his beloved client. “Today people don’t always choose what they wear. They lend some fashionable stuff from fashion houses, they don’t have taste,” he sighs. He bestows praise on Helen Mirren and Catherine Deneuve. “There will be four lots, belonging to a very important French actress, but we cannot say the name,” he says, with a knowing nod. Whilst the mere suggestion of owning a little Deneuve verve is very appealing, I move on. What should I look to, if I wanted to invest, I dare to ask? “Valentino from the 1960s is always a good choice. Those were modern dresses with a minimal sensibility,” he says.
“The most magical element of the store was being able to discuss the clothes with Didier, who is so knowledgeable, truly passionate – it is a gift in itself,” says couture collector Sabine Getty, who always buys to wear. “We had such fun talking about great fashion tales as I tried on gowns.”
Intimacy was key – as he zipped up Reese Witherspoon in a 1950 Christian Dior duchess satin gown, embroidered with roses (that she would wear to the Oscars), he exclaimed: “Perfect size. It was the perfect size,” as if still in shock. “She had the same measurements as the lady who ordered it.” And lucky it was, as she won Best Actress of 2006 that night (and she had picked up some Yves Saint Laurent dresses for more off-duty occasions before leaving her fitting). A more ooh la la moment featured Nicki Minaj, who arrived in a fur coat and wanted to try on more carcass, then unveiled to Ludot, revealing she was only wearing underwear underneath. She left with three more coats that day. No dresses.
Happily, this auction will prove you don’t have to be a celebrity to dress like one, with many lots set at 1,500 – 2,000 euros (£1,300 – £1,700). While not exactly cheap, these price points are thousands of euros cheaper than today’s actual couture. There is an elegant Madame Grès dress from 1946, unbelievably rescued from a rubbish bin on Rue Royale in 1984. An irresistible 1959 little black dress from Christian Dior when Yves Saint Laurent artistic director, playfully named the “naughty dress”, after jovial house model Victoire Doutreleau (estimate: €4,000 – €6,000). A further three LBDs, a classic he associates with his mother, who always dressed in jet for soirees.
Christian Dior Autumn-Winter 1959 cocktail dress, estimate: £4,200 - £6,700, Bonhams
Some of the more affordable lots are accessories, like the red satin Roger Vivier “rose” pumps he holds close to the zoom lens: “They will stay fashionable forever. Timeless.” He anticipates they will go for €600 – €1,200. And with the 1990s nostalgia holding strong, there are supermodel-worthy Chanel suits by Karl Lagerfeld, one in turquoise, red and green from 1993 (worn by Linda on the catwalk) and another in cream boucle 1994 (on Claudia!) pictured below.
Such emblematic suits are estimated at €1,500 – €3,000 each, a fraction of a new ready-to-wear one (approximately £10,000). One of the last appointments he took in store was with Peter Brant, Stephanie Seymour’s husband. “He has purchased many items for her,” says Ludot. “Pieces from the 1950’s to 1970’s. The whole family are loyal customers.” As a famed modern art collecting family, it seems natural they collect the finest couture from Ludot.
Chanel Spring-Summer 1971 ivory wool tweed suit, estimate: £1,300 - £1,700, Bonhams
Kim Hersov, founder and creative director of the beautifully curated vintage platform The Quaintrelle, will be sourcing for her clients, and potentially herself. “Didier closing feels like an end of an era, but I like to think there’s a girl out there that still actually wears these clothes, and appreciates not only the art, but also the provenance,” she says. “Purchasing from Didier you are assured the piece will be immaculately restored, drycleaned and beautifully protected.”
Her eyes are on “wearable treasures” like the cropped Yves Saint Laurent 1983 brown embroidered velvet evening jacket – “I can imagine with a baggy jean,” but also the Chanel tweed suits. “I would consider buying just for the jacket – that you will have for life. You are getting couture standards at a good price.” She’s attracted to the tailoring as an investment, but also spotted a lightweight midnight blue gown from 1975 that’s the perfect Gres.
Christian Dior dinner dress circa 1950, estimate: £1,700 - £2,500, Bonhams
On January 30th, Didier plans to watch proceedings discreetly behind the scenes in Bonhams, as his former darlings go to new homes, museums or airtight archives. You could be bidding against Johnny Depp, Kate Moss, Sharon Stone, Sarah Paulson, Joanna Lumley or Demi Moore to name but a few of his cited, and “[my] loyal, interesting clients. I have been lucky.” If a quick jaunt on the Eurostar seems improbable in the next two weeks, the auction will continue online until February 3rd. Remember, buying at auction is a refined but competitive sport. Bon chance!
More from the collection
Jean Dessès Fall-Winter 1952 grand evening dress, estimate: £1,000 - £1,700, Bonhams
Marcelle Alix circa 1940/1945 evening dress, estimate: £1,300 - £1,700, Bonhams
Fendi Prêt-à-Porter Autumn-Winter 2005 Astrakhan coat, estimate: £680 - £1,000, Bonhams
What to look for when buying and wearing vintage
Ludot advises: “Look carefully. It should be in the perfect state, and representative of the talent of the fashion designer.”
Ask for a condition report before the sale. If you can, visit the exhibition and see the piece. And most important is to look inside the piece, not only the outside, but of course how it’s made inside.
Good vintage is its own trademark. “At a certain point it is less about the brand and more about being vintage. Be it vintage Prada or Gucci,” says Ludot.
If buying to wear, don’t treat it like a museum piece, and wear it with modern accessories.
“Bid on one hero piece, rather than multiple lots. I only follow my hero lot to get one piece I have dreamed of (instead of multiple others that I could sleep at night without!)”, says Getty.
If not archiving, try to buy something that would not need alteration. This maintains value. “I did alter a pink Saint Laurent Couture dress which belonged to Catherine Deneuve because I had to wear it! But the truth is, the process is somewhat heartbreaking.”
If you are buying to wear, make sure you seek advice from the auction house on who to approach for alterations.
Hersov advises to look to accessories, particularly bags from heralded houses, as they were often better made than their counterparts today, and current pricing on new skyrocketing needlessly.
Bid on The Didier Ludot Collection at Bonhams website
