Inside the fascinating history of bouclé (and why it’s revival isn’t over yet)
Florence Knoll was a woman who knew what she wanted. Orphaned aged 12, she developed a steely core, later studying with 20th-century design legends including Mies van der Rohe and Walter Gropius, before becoming co-owner of Knoll Associates, responsible for some of the most iconic furniture of the century.
‘No compromise ever’, was a favourite personal motto; she also liked to say that it was not her practice to merely decorate a space, but to create it. So perhaps it’s odd to think that we have her to thank for the rise in status of bouclé, a delightfully tactile, even playful, textured fabric that has been enjoying a welcome return to prominence in the past few years.
The word comes from the French for ‘curl’ or ‘loop’, and bouclé originally referred to the yarn – usually wool – from which cloth was made, that has small loops along its length. When woven, these loops add texture, softness and bulk to the finished cloth.
The connection with Knoll came in the mid-1940s, when Florence spoke to Eero Saarinen, her childhood friend and frequent collaborator, and asked him to design a chair deeper than ‘a basket full of pillows’, something to ‘curl up in’. The comfortingly reclining design Saarinen produced, the ‘Womb’ chair, was upholstered in Knoll’s ‘Classic Bouclé’.
Perhaps it was the word association of ‘curl up’ that made this fabric the perfect fit. Or perhaps it was its soft texture combined with its hard-wearing practicality. Either way, the ‘Womb’ and its fabric became instant hits.
From interiors, it soon caught the attention of fashion designers, most notably Gabrielle Chanel, who had been experimenting with textured woollen fabrics like tweed from the 1930s, and 20 years later would also use bouclé to make boxy jackets and suits that became (and remain) the epitome of chic.
Given how popular mid-century design has been for a number of years, it’s not surprising that bouclé has had a resurgence. In the past five years, Dedar, the luxury Italian textile firm, brought out a collection dedicated to this tactile textile and it has featured in new furniture ranges by Levi Christiansen, Royal Stranger and Raf Simons for Kvadrat.
Still better, it adds texture, visual interest and comfort to interiors, all of which have given it staying power. It can be an accent – a cushion enrobed in ‘Kosi’ or snow-flecked ‘Lama’ by Parisian textile maker Lelièvre would be a dreamy addition to any room – but looks brilliant on chairs and sofas too.
B&B Italia’s playful, stuffed-pasta inspired ‘Tortello’ chair by Barber Osgerby is definitely my favourite take on the trend. Now, with the words of Florence Knoll ringing in my ear – ‘No compromise ever’ – I might even take the plunge myself!
