Four ways to improve the appearance of ‘hooded eyes’ – without resorting to surgery

You can delay droopy eyelids by using a firming eye cream
You can delay droopy eyelids by using a firming eye cream - Getty

Whoever came up with the term “hooded eyes” needs a lesson in diplomacy. If you’re unfamiliar with the phrase, the “hood” refers to the fold of skin that hangs over the crease of the eye – it’s more apparent in some people than others and, of course, becomes more pronounced with age. Loose eyelid skin, though not an affliction to be obsessed over, can be a pain, especially when applying makeup.

You don’t have to have vintage skin to have hooded eyes (it can be genetic) but if you’ve started to notice that your eyeshadow isn’t going on as seamlessly as it once did or your eyelid folds are butting up against your lashes leaving freshly applied mascara sticking to them, then there are things you can do – without surgery or injectables.

These are the four best solutions to explore:

Eye creams

Eye creams are often targeted at under eyes, tempering puffiness with caffeine, or dark circles with niacinamide and vitamins C and K. Yet droopy eyelids happen when fragile upper eye skin becomes less taut over time, which can be slowed with a firming eye cream.

Nothing in a pot or a tube is going to reverse an eyelid that’s already formed a fold but it will help to make the skin less crepey. If you choose one with instant benefits, you can get a good lift that lasts a few hours if not all day, depending on how much strain your eyes are subject to. Tired eyes look heavier than rested ones.

There are two that come to mind: Prai’s Ageless Eye Tight Uplift, £33, which contains a “secret” patented ingredient complex called Idealift that claims to “freeze” eye skin. It also contains glycerin and silk extracts that firm and smooth over the long term. Whereas Peter Thomas Roth’s Instant FIRMx Temporary Eye Tightener, £32, works a similar magic on the brow bone if you apply it with a brush and wait five minutes for the lift to kick in.

Eye tapes

It sounds rather makeshift, but eye tapes – clear half moon shaped stickers you apply to the fold of skin that’s hanging – are an instant way to lift hooded skin and open up your peepers a treat. You don’t want to do this compulsively, but for days which call for a heavier makeup look, they come in handy as you’ll have more surface area to work with.

With a close-up mirror, identify the fold of skin you want to lift then raise your eyebrows to stretch and flatten the skin. With tweezers, place the sticker over the area where the fold was apparent at rest. It takes a few times to get the knack but once you have, the results are addictive. Lids by Design, one of the brands selling eyelid correcting strips, refer to them as a “push-up bra for eyelids”, and they’re not wrong.

Makeup

Great eyeshadow can hide a multitude of sins. Particularly if it’s dark. If you master a smoky eye by packing on layers of brown eyeshadow beginning with a neutral base and then blend with a clean fluffy brush, just above the socket line (applying the colour higher on the crease draws your eyes upwards) you’ll get an instant eye lift. Be wary of sparkle – a little is ok but when it’s applied liberally it can illuminate those lines and folds.

For something less sultry, try winged eyeliner. It won’t alter hooded eyelids but it does help to counterbalance things. One of the easiest ways to do this is with a liquid eyeliner. I pull the skin taut with one hand while I draw a line close to the lashes with the other, extending it upwards at the outer corners. Brown liquid eyeliner can be a softer option and is more forgiving when you start out.

Lashes

A few false lashes can do a lot of the heavy lifting. For ones that require zero skill to apply, bonded press-on lashes are remarkably discreet and blend invisibly with your own.

I like The Natural Lash variant which includes 6 wears per tray. They adhere via a clear bonding strip that comes off effortlessly. If you’re deft with false eyelashes, then you’ll be looking for something more professional, in which case I’d recommend Lashify, a natural method that works by applying the lashes underneath and not on top of your own. As you will need glue and a steady hand, it is more of an effort, though you will get better results that last longer. I often stick to one or two at the outer corners, which yields a decent lift with less faffing about.

Otherwise a good mascara helps. Merit’s Clean Lash mascara wand and tubing formulation has been designed specifically for hooded eyelids, meaning the mascara itself won’t transfer onto the lids. Curling eyelashes upright beforehand acts as a shield for eyelid folds. I don’t bother – but I’m sure I’m in the minority.

The seven best products for hooded eyes...

Peter Thomas Roth Instant FIRMx Temporary Eye Tightener, £32, Sephora 

Prai Ageless Eye Tight Uplift, £33, Prai 

Lids By Design Cosmetic Eyelid Correcting Strips £24, Contours RX

Merit Clean Lash £28, Merit 

Kiss Impress Falsies Press-on-lash Kit, £20, Superdrug

Victoria Beckham Smoky Eye Brick in 01, £40, Victoria Beckham 

Lisa Eldridge Kitten Flick Liquid Eyeliner, £25, Lisa Elridge