Fforme Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear: A Little Undone Is All Right

Frances Howie proved Fforme is a New York fashion upstart worth watching. Again.

Taking the helm from designer Paul Helbers, who exited the brand following a two-year tenure, Howie channeled her experience working for Alber Elbaz at Lanvin and Stella McCartney into a compelling lineup of modern, sophisticated clothing with artisanal touches at a good price.

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In tailoring, for example, a gorgeous Italian-made black mohair suit blazer was gently contoured to the curves, and the outer seam lines of pants hand-frayed, creating an interesting fringey side-stripe.

Playing the masculine-feminine tug o’ war, a lightweight wool trench with a sun-pleated back transforms into a dress by slipping off the jacket, while a cropped men’s blazer with a tiny interior wire creates a nipped-in waist with whirls of fabric at either side, worn over a linear trouser skirt.

“What I learned from [Alber] was this lightness of touch, which is about the poetry of something remaining a little bit undone,” she said, explaining unfinished edges on a lovely ivory spaghetti strap column dress, and 60 meters of hand-frayed ribbons on a navy blue trophy coat.

She relishes in talking about craft and textiles, explaining how a blood-red silk dress was cut on the bias, then changed direction to a straight grain at the waist to create a ripple effect, or how silk viscose that comes off the loom with fringed selvedge can make a simple ivory short-sleeve top and skirt into luxury items.

“Fabric development and this unique level of textile is going to be an ongoing thing for us,” said Howie of her vision. At the same time, Fforme has been able to get its prices down, so pieces will start at $695, and those fringey pants are $995. “We don’t want to offer an idea that’s inaccessible,” she said.

Launch Gallery: Fforme Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection

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