Feeling Keen? Here's Why The Uneek Sandals Are The Ugly Shoe Of The Summer
What defines an ugly shoe? Is it a tall, chunky sole? A foam composition (think: Crocs) that reminds you of your nan’s gardening shoe? Or is it not about what it looks like, and just that it creates a divide in public opinion that rivals the great blue/black or white/gold dress internet debate of 2015.
That’s the case for the Keen Uneek, a sandal that’s gained prominence with middle-aged outdoor enthusiasts to city-dwelling gorpcore kids.
Keen’s fashion credibility can partly be attributed to the latter group, but a succession of collaborations with IYKYK brands has also added kudos. Saul Nash dressed his models in them for his spring/summer ’24 collection, while partnerships with Gramicci and END Clothing has upped its streetwear clout.
“We've stocked Keen for years. It's a great silhouette, unique yet versatile, and at an accessible price point,” says Dean Walker, END’s buyer and energy director.
“We’ve seen a trend in low-profile silhouettes in general, and sales in similar styles which we stock seem to get picked up all year-round. Keen have been having their moment as an in-the-know go to for a city-friendly and travel-lite sandal, so we’re very pleased to have been able to collaborate with them on two colourways of the Uneek.”
If you’re unsure as to whether you’ve seen these shoes out and about, then you haven’t: you’d remember if you’d had. With a braided upper made from bungee cords, microfibre footbeds and a rubber sole, they’re a bit like a pair of Tevas if they had a crochet makeover.
Surprisingly, it isn’t a new design; the Uneek line launched in 2014 and the brand has been around since 2003. Martin Keen founded the business when he noticed the need for a boat-appropriate shoe with a toe cap that would protect his feet whilst sailing – these are the Newport sandals, which are still available and popular today – a shared hobby with his father who was an artist and shoe designer for Clarks.
A chance encounter with one of Apple’s marketing team at San Francisco International Airport (he was working on a Macbook when the conversation struck) eventually led to the late Steve Jobs favouring the brand. Keen would send him shoes and Jobs would wear them, a smart marketing tactic that gave them appeal outside of outdoor endeavours.
The Washington Post reported that in Keen’s first year, the brand grossed $1.5 million. That rose to $15 million in year two, and by the time the founder sold his share in 2011, the brand was making $50 million in operating profit.
“The braided leather upper is a very distinct look that makes a lot of people question if it’s a shoe or sandal,” says Walker. “In menswear, they’re a firm favourite with wide trousers and a great pair of socks, while in womenswear, we’ve seen a lot of END customers styling their Uneeks with technical outerwear and parachute skirts.”
Daniel Holmes, an accountant who lives in London, came across the brand on Instagram two years ago, sharing posts back and forth of the weird silhouettes with his friend.
“A year of constant pressure between the two of us eventually cracked us both, and the trigger was finally pulled,” he says about buying his first pair of Keen Uneeks. “Other than obviously feeling like a Roman Emperor, a crippling fear of sea urchins ahead of a trip to Croatia was a big motivation for buying. They are somehow even comfier than they look.”
Billy Tempest-Radford is a fashion stylist and art consultant who has seen them worn within fashion circles for the past few years.
“I actually started chatting to a guy at Notting Hill carnival because I saw he was wearing them, and we got into conversation about the brand,” she explains. “They do get noticed a lot, I was returning clothes for a shoot in central London and three people of different ages and genders stopped me and said they liked them.”
For Holmes,“comments range from, ‘They are the most disgusting shoe I’ve ever seen’ from my loving girlfriend to involuntary laughter. Though I can see their attitudes changing towards them as their eyes adjust.”
A more positive observation made by Holmes and Tempest-Radford is how comfortable the they are, a running theme with the ‘ugly shoe’ genre.
Before Birkenstocks made their way into the mainstream, their orthopaedics footbeds were a favourite amongst the deeply untrendy flat-footed community. When Dad trainers were at their peak, the bouncy, chunky soles of Asics and New Balance designs suddenly were en vogue. The only way for an ‘ugly shoe’ to be covetable when its traditionally not aesthetically pleasing is to offer comfort first.
Of course, an ugly shoe may not always live its life defined as an ugly shoe. Those who spewed hatred to the cork-soled sandals will likely have joined the rest of the population and brought themselves a pair; its ubiquity being an indication that it’s not all that bad looking after all.
“I think the idea that [the Keen Uneeks] were ugly was what caught my eye the first time I saw them,” says Holmes. “But the shift from ugly to actually quite handsome happened relatively quickly.”
“I wouldn’t say they are quite an ugly shoe, but they are in the same neighbourhood as Crocs for their comfort level and recognisably strong design identity,” counters Tempest-Radford. “I like the ugly shoe trend and think adding some level of humour to footwear design is always encouraged. It shows you can laugh at yourself to some degree and be confident enough to wear something fun.”
Keen by name, keen by nature.
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