Experimental Chalet Val d'Isère: This chic new ski hotel is a foodie haven
Ah, skiing, that exorbitantly expensive and wholly addictive winter sport. When you’re soaring down a freshly powdered piste under a bluebird sky, it’s an unbeatable high.
But it comes with a lot of distinctly unglamorous moments: clomping around in silly boots; schlepping and sweating into your thermals; freezing your face off on a windy lift; and watching tiny French children in ski schools zoom down the runs with more grace than you’ll ever achieve, while you partake in what is essentially a controlled fall down a mountain with two sticks clipped to your feet.
By the end of a day on the slopes, the thought of finding a hip après spot can be too much to countenance. Thank the winter gods for Experimental Chalet Val d'Isère, the glamorous new four-star ski hotel that truly has it all. From the coolest cocktail bar in town staffed by dishy expert bartenders, to the cosiest raclette restaurant where you can eat your bodyweight in cheese, all the glamour of mountain living will be restored to you, no matter how sore your calves are.
The 11th addition to the Experimental Group, it began as a cocktail club in Paris set up by school pals Olivier Bon, Pierre-Charles Cros, and Romée de Goriainoff in 2007. While Xavier Padovani was bought on board as the fourth partner in 2010. Padovani, a proud Corsican who lives in east London, truly walks the hospitality walk — he literally has WINE and DINE tattooed on his knuckles.
Today there are Experimental outposts in New York, London, Ibiza, Menorca, Venice and Verbier, plus Cowley Manor in the Cotswolds. Here’s what to expect at the brilliant new outpost in the French Alps.
Where?
Val d'Isère, a cute traditional mountain village in the Savoie region of the French Alps that has a reputation for combining great skiing and lively après ski. It’s just under a three hour drive from Geneva in Switzerland, the most convenient airport to fly in to.
The Style
The perfect balance of Alpine charm via American ski lodge, in a winking retro-chic manner. Interior designer Dorothée Meilichzon has leant hard into the existing aesthetic of the chunky stone fireplace, with lots of wood and vintage-feeling textiles. It’s all the Seventies charm without the sweaty polyester.
Look out for sweet touches such as the fox-shaped door knockers and the themed pin badges, something particular to the Experimental Group brand — each location has a unique local fauna as a mascot. Staff also wear very stylish sheepskin gilets, and the boutique by reception offers a nifty array of warm clothes and cool sunglasses if you get a case of the shoppies.
Which Room?
Experimental Chalet Val d'Isère has been sensitively converted, and the 113 rooms retain the compact dimensions of its previous incarnation as L'Aigle des Neiges. This only adds to the nostalgic charm, with a dinky galley-style minibar and kettle set-up in the corridor leading to a plump king size bed with a wooden headboard that evokes snowboards.
There are options for rooms with balconies, which look out over the snowy slopes and lifts, as well as suite and penthouse options — if you’re looking for something with a bit more floor space.
Bathrooms are surprisingly spacious affairs with lovely details such as the accent tiles and handles designed to look like the antlers of the majestic elk. It’s like a hunting lodge and an old world hotel had a baby.
Toiletries from Swedish spa brand L:a Bruket allude to the wellness aspect that is de regour in hospitality these days, and there are fluffy white dressing gowns and Experimental branded slippers waiting so you can shuffle on down to the spa if the bath tub and rain shower isn’t quite cutting it for your relaxation needs.
Food & Drink
With two restaurants and a bar, there’s really never any need to leave the hotel at all, except for skiing. Don’t miss booking a dinner at L'Aiglon, the smaller in-house restaurant, with it’s centre piece wood-burning oven to get all the Savoyard specialties (i.e. cheese) nice and gooey. It’s very hard to choose between raclette and fondue, and safest to opt for both just to be sure. If you’re dairy-free, my condolences.
L’Aigle d’or, where a tasty continental breakfast is also served, is in the style of a glitzy Parisian brasserie with its marble tables featuring brushed metal scalloping. There are still nods to the natural surroundings, with mushroom-shaped lamps, plus almost Japanese-style papery curtains creating a textured cloud around the central bar.
Given the Experimental Group’s roots in cocktail culture, it almost goes without saying that the bars are its crown jewels. Staff train at the company’s various locations including Ibiza, and bring their own flair to making delicious concoctions.
The dedicated Experimental Cocktail Club has groovy Seventies hideaway vibes, with plush burnt orange floor-to-ceiling carpets and low seating. It’s not quite a conversation pit, but getting there. They can definitely make you any drink you can dream of, but I can heartily recommend the one with mezcal and white wine (sounds weird, but just you wait).
Facilities
Don’t neglect to check out the bijoux spa facilities, which include a pint-sized Art Deco style swimming pool, a steam room, sauna and that all-important cold plunge in a big old barrel. Cycle your way through for maximum muscle restoration while sipping on plentiful fruity ice water.
Calming subterranean treatment rooms can be booked for facials and massages. I can heartily recommend the Les Laboratoires Mansard facial with a delicious scalp massage straight after an early morning flight and three-hour transfer from Geneva. It takes you from half-dead to de-puffed and glowing in no time.
One of the best parts of staying at Experimental Chalet Val d'Isère is having your equipment hire right on hand. Friendly and knowledgeable staff will have you kitted out in the exact gear you need (no upselling you on faster skis if it’s been a while) and you can store them on racks with numbers that correspond to your room’s.
The heated boot section is particularly delightful — something I wished I could implement at home after this awful soggy grey winter we’ve had in London.
Extracurricular
Skiing, of course! You have the whole of the Le Solaise area at your disposal, plus you can head over towards Tignes side and the entire Espace Killy via gondola. The Experimental Chalet Val d'Isère enjoying prime position just a stomp away from the main lifts.
There are 300km of pistes, with plenty of long blue runs for chill skiers (c’est moi) as well as more challenging blacks and reds. I am reliably informed the local ski patrol provides an excellent door-to-door (or rather, blood wagon to ambulance) service, but please, please remember to get mountain-specific insurance.
If you’re not a skier or snowboarder there are also fun outdoor activities such as the traditional snowshoeing or a newer offering: electric fat bikes. Thanks to their big grippy tires and battery assist, you can zoom along the snow and take in the gorgeous mountain scenery.
Best For
A great time on the mountain, followed by guaranteed great eating and the hottest watering hole in town, without ever having to stray far from a roaring fire and the comforts of your hotel.
Details
One night stay at Experimental Chalet Val d'Isère starts from £350 inclusive of bed and breakfast and spa access. experimentalchaletvaldisere.com
