Peptides Are The Collagen-Boosting Skincare Hero To Know For Winter
If you consider yourself somewhat fluent in the ever-growing skincare lexicon, chances are you'll have come across the term 'peptides'. Thrust into beauty marketing, taking over new launches and infiltrating almost every category from skincare to haircare and even lash serums, these amino acids are fast becoming the biggest buzzword in beauty. So much so, Google searches have risen by 5,000% in the last month.
But how exactly are they going to improve your own beauty line-up for the better? And, can you really justify adding another skincare ingredient to an already bulging routine? As the term becomes more popular, with new benefits splashed across your bottles and claims promising you the glowiest complexion yet – not to mention longer eyelashes and shinier hair – you might be left wondering if peptides really do live up to the hype.
To debunk the science, we've spoken to some of the best dermatologists and experts in the business about the benefits of peptides for skin health, hair and beyond.
Meet The Experts
Dr Alexis Granite, a leading board-certified dermatologists
Dr Meder, a cosmetic chemist and founder of Meder Beauty
Shu-Lan Cheung, technical educator for haircare brand, FFØR
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What are peptides?
'Peptides are short chains of amino acids,' says Dr Alexis Granite, one of the UK's leading board-certified dermatologists. 'They are the building blocks of essential proteins within our skin – think collagen, elastin and keratin – and help maintain healthy skin texture, strength and resilience,' she adds.
There are different types of peptides with unique functionality and effect, adds Dr Meder, a cosmetic chemist and founder of Meder Beauty. In fact, there are hundreds of them, from copper peptides to glutathione and, to make matters all the more confusing, they're usually split into four wider categories: carrier peptides, enzyme inhibitors, signal and neurotransmitter peptides.
What are the benefits of peptides?
Though peptides are naturally produced in the body, like all good things, they deplete with age - which is where peptides in skincare come in. 'When applied topically, peptides act as messengers, signalling skin and hair cells to perform essential functions,' Dr Granite explains. Communicating with different cells in the body makes these molecules vital for a number of different processes within the body, including skin quality and elasticity, but also hair growth and scalp health.
'Two of the main benefits of peptides are their ability to interact with cells very precisely and their unparalleled safety,' adds Dr Meder, who's been using peptides within her own brand for years. 'If used wisely, peptides can keep your skin healthy, slow ageing, help control pigmentation, reduce skin sensitivity and improve skin’s resilience,' she says.
Another major selling point is their teeny-tiny size. 'Amino acids are very small molecules and stay small even when forming a chain,' adds Dr Meder. This means that they can penetrate the skin more easily and effectively all without damaging the skin barrier.
How to use peptides in your skincare routine
Peptides for skin
Peptides have been cropping up in skincare more and more recently, with almost every new launch harnessing the power of these small but mighty molecules. From peptide serums to moisturisers, and even lip treatments (a la rhode), they've become the most coveted ingredient to supercharge your skincare routine. As to the reason why? 'Signal peptides', the most common among skincare formulations, really can work wonders for our dermis – from strengthening the skin barrier and helping reduce inflammation, to boosting collagen production.
Peptide moisturisers
And, in even better news, peptides are pretty easy to slot into your existing skincare routine. 'Amino acids are naturally used by the human body so peptides have a high level of bioavailability for skin cells,' says Dr Meder. (Translation: because our skin recognises these amino acids, they're easily tolerated by the majority of us, even those with sensitive or redness-prone skin.)
Renergie 300-Peptide Cream
Cream Skin Cerapeptide Toner & Moisturizer
Protini Powerpeptide Resurf Serum
Multi-peptide Moisturizer
Peptide glazing fluid
Soothing Oat and Peptide Cleanser
Peptide serums
As any derm worth their salt will tell you, a peptide serum is one of the easiest ways to integrate these hardworking amino acids into your existing routine. That's because, like peptide moisturisers, these formulas are left on the skin allowing for the ingredient to fully absorb and yield more effective results. From The Ordinary's HA
Multi-Peptide Advanced Serum
Multi-Peptide + HA Serum
Squalane and Copper Peptide Rapid Plumping Serum
Fresh Black Tea Firming Peptides Serum
Futurist Peptide-Power Serum Primer
Medik8 Liquid Peptides
Pro-Collagen Multi-Peptide Booster
Peptides for lips
Thank Hailey Bieber for turning peptides into a must-have ingredient for your lips too. The now viral rhode peptide lip treatment has been making waves to recreate the iconic glazed donut aesthetic as well as tend to perennially dry lips.
The formula works as a gloss, a lip balm and lip mask, harnessing the power of peptides to help strengthen the skin barrier, plumpen the lips and lock in moisture all while improving the look of fine lines, too.
peptide lip treatment
How to use peptides in your haircare routine
Peptides for hair
You might have also seen peptides making their way onto your shampoo bottles and hair masks, too. 'When used in hair formulations, peptides can help promote hair growth by boosting local microcirculation, increasing oxygen within follicles and improving hair strength,' shares Granite.
'Peptides also form the all-important bonds that help to hold hair proteins together, keeping hair strong and durable,' says Shu-Lan Cheung, Technical Educator for haircare brand, FFØR. 'While modern day stressors such as hormones, pregnancy and stress can all contribute to hair loss, peptides can easily penetrate the molecule to help to prevent breakage, resulting in a thicker, stronger head of hair.'
K18 Peptide Prep Ph-Maintenance Shampoo 250ml
Peptide Prep pH maintenance shampoo
Multi-Peptide Serum for Hair Density
Peptide Volumizing Hair Treatment | The INKEY List
Caffeine + Biotin Peptide Density Serum
Re Bond Mask
Peptide Prep detox shampoo
Hair Rituel Revitalising Fortifying Serum
Scalp Supplement
Peptides could improve scalp health, too. (Because, as we know healthy hair starts at the scalp.) 'Peptides can also prevent oxidative stress from permeating the cells of the scalp which in turn can help to promote cell renewal and encourage healthy hair growth,' says Cheung.
Peptides for lashes
Spotted all those lash serums doing the rounds? Those impossibly long, fluttery lashes are enough to lure most of us in, but the latest lash serum innovations can also add density, volume, strength and encourage the growth of new hairs.
'Peptide lash serums can help regrow and maintain lash volume the same way scalp formulations work: by increasing circulation within the lash follicle, strengthening hairs and lengthening time spent in the growth phase of the hair cycle,' says Dr Granite.
Lash Fuel Advanced Peptide Lash Serum
Multi-Peptide Lash and Brow Serum
Grow Potion
Lash & Brow Serum
Can every skin type use peptides?
Unlike some of the harsh and often potent ingredients sitting on your skincare shelfie (hello retinol), peptides are unlikely to cause skin reactions. You can even use them while pregnant or breastfeeding, says Meder.
There is one catch, though - not all peptide formulations are created equal. 'The function of the product depends on the quality of peptide used in the formulation,' says Meder. 'As peptides are created in laboratories using biotechnology, there are scientific bases behind each of them including recommended concentration to achieve expected effects. Unfortunately, not all brands are following scientific recommendations as peptides are quite expensive and some peptide-based products on the market are less efficient than others,' she warns.
Which skincare ingredients work best with peptides?
The good news is that peptides get along with most other ingredients, too. 'Peptides can be used with vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, retinol and niacinamide,' says Dr Granite. However, there are a few actives you don't want to be mixing with your peptide formulas.
The first form part of the acid family: AHAs and BHAs. '[Peptides] should not be used with salicylic acid and alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid as the acids may cause a breakdown of peptide bonds (in a process called hydrolysis), rendering the peptides less effective,' says Dr Meder. Though experts don't advise against retinol and peptides together entirely, it could potentially render the latter less effective; your best bet instead is to use a peptide serum in the morning and retinol at night to yield the best results.
What are collagen peptides?
Thanks to the array of collagen drinks and supplements readily available in your local health food shop, collagen is probably already part of your beauty vocabulary. 'Collagen peptides', on the other hand - another term trending in wellness circles lately - are likely something new. Touted to have benefits for skin health, they help break down whole collagen proteins to enable faster or more efficient absorption. Though the data is still in its infancy, it's thought that collagen peptides are more accessible for the body to absorb.
Of course, the key to adding peptides into your beauty routine is to avoid chopping and changing your routine with every shiny-new peptide launch under the sun. Instead arm yourself with the right information, look for complementary ingredients specific to your skin type as well as the right science-backed formulas for long-term benefits.
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