Everything You Need to Know About Oil- vs. Water-Based Skin Care

The difference between oil- and water-based skin-care products and how they affect your skin has become a popular topic in online beauty forums—and for good reason.

“Both water and oil serve to deliver ingredients to the skin, the difference being the former results in skin-care products being lightweight, the latter more emollient,” says Ron Robinson, a cosmetic chemist and founder of Beauty Stat. If not applied correctly, the mix can lead to beading and patchiness on the skin or to ingredients that have not been properly absorbed. “Water-based products tend to hydrate and penetrate rapidly, while oil-based products lock in moisture and nourish the skin,” notes Krupa Koestline, a clean cosmetic chemist and founder of KKT Labs. “By knowing the difference, you’ll be guided on how to properly layer skin-care products, which is pretty straightforward—water-based products should always go on first, followed by oils, so the oils don’t create a barrier that blocks absorption and clog pores.”

“It’s possible these two different formulas might have a higher chance of separating when improperly layered on the skin, but keep in mind there can be additional factors involved as well, including the amount of oil produced by your skin and the other ingredients found in the products,” says Michelle Wong, PhD, a cosmetic chemist and author of The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare.

Below, find a breakdown of everything you need to know about oil- vs. water-based skin care.

Meet Our Expert

·     Krupa Koestline is a clean cosmetic chemist and founder of KKT Labs.

·     Ron Robinson is a cosmetic chemist and founder of Beauty Stat.

·     Michelle Wong, PhD, is a cosmetic chemist and author of The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare.

·     Jeannette Graf, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mt. Sinai School of Medicine.

Understanding Product Bases

A product “base” is essentially the main ingredient or ingredients that make up the bulk of the product. “It would be the sauce or broth in a food dish,” says Koestline. “In skin care, it’s water, oils, or other solvents that help deliver the active ingredients effectively.”

“In water-based products, water or an ingredient like aloe are often the most concentrated ingredients in the product,” says Jeannette Graf, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mt. Sinai School of Medicine. “With oil-based products, it’s usually an oil like coconut or jojoba.”

Identifying Oil-Based Products

“If the product feels thick or greasy on the skin, leaves an oily residue after application, or contains jojoba, argan, or coconut oils as the first ingredient, it’s most likely oil-based,” says Koestline. “The texture will also be heavier and sit on the skin longer. Keep in mind there are products that are oil-based that do contain water as the second or third ingredient.”

“An oil-based product would be recommended for someone with dry or dehydrated skin who needs extra TLC to meet their skin needs,” adds Dr. Graf.

Identifying Water-Based Products

Water-based products typically list water as the first ingredient and contain other water-based components, including glycerin and humectants like hyaluronic acid. “These products are usually lightweight and absorb easily into the skin without leaving a greasy feel,” says Dr. Graf. “They can contain some oils which would be listed at the lower end of the label, yet the vast majority of ingredients are water derived. Water-based products are appropriate for someone with oily, combination, and acne-prone skin.”

“An easy way to test whether a product is oil or water-based is by putting a dollop of the product in a cup full of water. If it floats, it’s an oil-based product. If it settles, it is a water-based product,” says Koestline.

Why Products Are Formulated as Oil- or Water-Based

Whether a product is oil or water-based determines how the product will work on the skin. “Each has its own benefits,” says Koestline. “Water-based formulas are great for hydration and quick absorption, while oil-based formulas provide long-lasting moisture and can nourish the skin deeply. The formulation type depends on the desired effect—hydration versus nourishment—or a combination of both.”

Choosing the Right Product for Your Skin Type

“If you have oily or acne-prone skin, water-based products are usually a better option since they’re lightweight and won’t clog pores,” says Koestline. “For dry or mature skin, oil-based products work better because they provide deep hydration and lock in moisture. Combination skin may benefit from using both types, just at different times or through layering.”

“Consumers should use the manufacturer’s claim on the packaging as their guideline when shopping to direct them to the right product—for example, a label will specify if it’s for dry or oily skin,” says Robinson. So, too, agrees Dr. Wong, “The label is the best place to start when looking for the right formula for your skin type.”

How to Decode Ingredient Lists

For both oil- and water-based products, pay attention to the first few ingredients, as these make up most of the formula.

On a water-based product: The first ingredient should be water (aqua) followed by other hydrating ingredients like glycerin, aloe, or hyaluronic acid.

On an oil-based product: The first ingredients will likely be argan, olive, or squalane oils, along with butters like shea and cocoa, as well as skin-smoothing emollients or silicones.

Conclusion

If you’re looking for hydration and a lighter texture, water-based products are the way to go. If your skin needs extra nourishment or moisture, then oil-based products are a better choice. A balanced skin-care routine might include both—just be mindful of how and when you layer them. “If you're worried about skin or liquid makeup products separating on your skin, grab some skin-care samples and try them out before purchasing,” says Dr. Wong, who also suggests reading reviews to narrow down which products are more likely to separate.

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