Are your cortisol levels too high? We asked experts what to look for
The relationship between beauty, wellness and TikTok can be a double-edged sword at the best of times. Misinformation is rife, wellness influencers feign proper medical credentials, and a new 'health trend' seems to rear its head every two minutes.
Recently, the app has been aflame with content around one topic in particular: cortisol. The conversations range from self-diagnosing high cortisol levels to recommending cortisol "glow ups" and not forgetting the skincare-associated 'cortisol face'. Searches for 'how to lower cortisol in women' are up 279 per cent on its app, with videos targeting 'cortisol symptoms' sitting at just over 239,000. While conversations around health and wellbeing are important, with so much noise, it's hard to separate the wheat from the chaff and decipher what's really true.
To set the record straight on cortisol, we spoke to two experts in the skincare and healthcare industries, and their insights and practical advice thankfully put our nerves at rest.
What is cortisol?
Wellness influencers might have you thinking that cortisol is the enemy, but that's just not true. Its role in our body is complex and varied, and like many things, it's all about maintaining the right balance.
"Cortisol, often referred to as the 'stress hormone' plays a vital role in our body’s response to stress," explains BACP registered CBT and psychotherapist Lorraine Collins. "Think of cortisol as your body’s natural alarm system, activated in times of perceived danger or stress, enabling you to respond effectively to challenges."
"It is produced by the adrenal glands and is essential for various bodily functions, including regulating metabolism, supporting immune response, and managing blood sugar levels. While it may have a somewhat intimidating reputation, cortisol is actually a crucial player in our overall health, helping to keep our internal systems balanced and functioning smoothly."
What are the signs of imbalanced cortisol levels?
Think of our cortisol levels like a tide; they rise and fall throughout the day. According to Collins, our levels start off high in the morning before declining gradually throughout the day.
But external lifestyle factors, such as personal relationships and workplace stress can cause our cortisol levels to spike. It's these sustained high levels of cortisol through ongoing stressors which can manifest in unwanted ways, both in our body and in our mental health.
"Recognising the signs of imbalanced cortisol levels can be a game-changer for your mental health," says Collins. "High cortisol levels might manifest as persistent fatigue, heightened anxiety, frequent headaches, or even a constant feeling of being on edge. You may also notice changes in appetite, with cravings for sugary or fatty foods as your body seeks quick energy."
"Low cortisol levels may present as unrelenting exhaustion, difficulty concentrating, and a lack of enthusiasm for activities you once enjoyed. Paying attention to your body’s signals can help you identify when it’s time to take a step back and reassess your stressors," she adds.
How does cortisol affect our skin?
By now we know that our mental health and skin are inextricably linked, with stress often being a hugely disruptive influence to our skin's health and appearance. Cortisol has been pinned as one of the main contributors, with before and after videos of 'cortisol face' proliferating across social media platforms. But what effect does cortisol really have on our skin?
"When cortisol levels remain elevated for prolonged periods, it can have a negative impact on the skin. The skin serves as both a receptor for cortisol and a responder to the body’s stress, accelerating collagen breakdown, reducing hyaluronic acid production and impairing fibroblast activity," explains dermatologist Dr Ellie Rashid.
"This can lead to sagging, wrinkles and reduced hydration. It disrupts the skin barrier by decreasing ceramides and fatty acids, causing dryness and sensitivity. Chronic cortisol elevation also dysregulates inflammatory pathways, exacerbating conditions such as acne, psoriasis, and eczema, while stimulating sebum production and promoting oxidative stress, which accelerates ageing."
What is cortisol face?
Even if we are familiar with how cortisol works, it's a bit trickier to figure out what to look out for when it comes to its physical manifestations. 'Cortisol face' is the breakout term associated with the hormone's negative effects on our skin, and as Dr Rashid explains, "refers to the dullness, sagging and breakouts as a consequence of elevated cortisol levels and stress."
What skincare can help with cortisol face?
The best way to combat the effects of cortisol on your skin is to incorporate lifestyle changes which in turn, will keep your levels on an even keel (more on that below). But, as Dr Rashid tells us, there are some things you can do in addition for a skin-deep fix.
"Combining relaxation techniques with hydrating and reparative skincare can improve skin texture and elasticity. In skincare, products that repair and reinforce the skin barrier are key. Ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and niacinamide can help with dryness and sensitivity, while antioxidants like vitamin C and E protect against free radicals and oxidative stress."
Medik8 Liquid Peptides
Dr. Jart Ceramidin Infused Ectoin Cream
SkinCeuticals H.A. Intensifier Serum for All Skin Types
Elemis Pro-Collagen Night Cream
Paula's Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster
Youth to the People Retinal + Niacinamide Youth Serum
"SPF application to protect the skin from UV radiation is important," she continues. "Vitamin A derivatives such as retinol, retinal and tretinoin (on prescription) stimulates collagen production, maintaining skin elasticity and firmness. As collagen levels increase, the skin's texture improves and fine lines are reduced."
How can we balance our cortisol levels?
While trying to balance our cortisol levels might seem like an extra addition to a jam-packed lifestyle that threatens to topple over, Collins frames it as "gifting yourself ways to resource and maintain emotional balance".
Introducing lifestyle changes that prioritise wellness and a slower, kinder approach to your daily life will consequentially aid in lowering your cortisol levels. "It’s about being intentional and that requires a level of discipline," she adds. For some guidance on where to start in your day-to-day routine, Collins and Dr Rashid share their tips for a more balanced life below.
Increased movement
It might feel like exercise is the answer to everything, but in this case Collins recommends a slower approach. "Movement is a wonderful way to lower cortisol levels and a word I often use in my practice instead of exercise," she says.
"Instead of a traditional workout, consider activities that blend movement with mindfulness, such as dance, tai chi, or even a gentle stroll in nature. This approach not only gets your body moving but also grounds you in the present moment.
Spend time in nature
It's something we're all guilty of neglecting, but getting out of our four walls, whether they be our home or the office, and spending more time in natural surroundings has incredibly positive effects on the body and mind. "Wellness spaces are often closer than we realise," says Collins.
"Whether it’s gardening, hiking, or simply sitting under a tree. Nature has a remarkable way of soothing our minds and reminding us of life’s simple joys. Allow yourself to be gently mothered by nature if feeling a little overwhelmed when cortisol levels rise."
Prioritise sleep
We've yet to meet a person who wouldn't like to get more sleep and wake up feeling more rested. We know that a bad night won't hesitate to leave us feeling fatigued and sluggish the next day, but it can also have a damaging effect on our cortisol.
"Poor sleep elevates cortisol levels, increasing inflammation and breaking down skin’s collagen and hyaluronic acid," explains Dr Rashid. "While we can’t bank it, having a good restful night of sleep can help with the reparative processes in the skin, although it doesn’t make up for chronic impaired sleep."
Breathwork
Breathing exercises and techniques have had marked results when used in the treatment of various mental health issues such as anxiety, but its benefits are far-reaching. Collins recommends trying box breathing or the 4-7-8 method, but stresses that it's most important to find a technique that resonates with you.
Engage in more social and creative activities
Humans are community-based creatures, and the shift to a more individualistic society has had a knock on effect on our stress levels and mental health. Couple that with a lack of creative outlets which tend to wane into adulthood, and its no wonder that we struggle to release our daily tension, resulting in a monumental build-up. To combat this, Collins recommends embracing creative endeavours, which can be as simple as junk journalling and painting, and increasing social activities.
"These forms of self-expression can serve as powerful outlets for stress, allowing you to process emotions in a tangible way," she explains. "There is the added benefit of soulful connection when done in community, such as a choir, a sing-a-long movie or theatre night."
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