Celine’s Surprise SS25 Collection Film Drop Pays Hommage To French 'It-Girls' Of Film
Hedi Slimane designed Celine’s SS25 line back in May, while rereading Françoise Sagan’s 1965 novel ‘La Chamade’ (yes, the one adapted for the silver screen a few years later starring Catherine Deneuve) and listening to Nico and the Velvet Underground, Jane Birkin and Françoise Hardy.
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That kind of tells you all you need to know about the vibe of the collection, which dropped as a surprise digital show on Sunday. That, and the fact Slimane also revisited images he photographed of the early naughts youth scenes across London and Paris: ‘uptown indie Lolitas wearing babydoll dresses stormed the English concert scene’, the show notes read.
Slimane’s femmes all style their perfectly messy bobs with black silk jersey headbands and smatterings of black eyeliner (a tribute to Hardy, the 1960s French pop singer who died in June, aged 80), walking the hallowed corridors of former royal residence Château de Compiègne to Lou Reed’s sombre lullaby Femme Fatale, sung by Velvet Underground frontwoman Nico. They all look at once buttoned up and a little undone, capturing that je ne sais quoi French girl essence that Brits and Americans long to emulate. They're nonchalant, in a cool kind of way. I guess they're just chic.
By day, they wear skirtsuits — which come in houndstooth tweed, leather and patent-finished prince of wales check, neatly cropped jackets paired with pencil and pleated box skirts — and minidresses in 1960s style shift and babydoll silhouettes. For the evening, the same shapes are adorned with sequins, features and flowers lacquered with crystals, shown alongside more sculptural pieces, cut in black silk faille.
Slimane titled the collection Un Été Francais (also the name of the house’s new ‘haute’ fragrance, which is also plugged in the film). Here Celine comes, you better watch your step.
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