Are blue orchids real? What to know about the vibrant flower
Low-maintenance, elegant and available in a variety of colours, it's easy to see why orchids are such a popular houseplant.
But, as a colour we don't associate with the natural world, it's normal for electric blue orchids to catch your attention the most – and for admirers to even question their authenticity.
While there's no denying the plant is certainly alive and kicking, most blue orchids you'll find in shops and florists are man-made.
Below, we break down everything you need to know about blue orchids, from how they're grown to how to keep yours blooming.
The origin of blue orchids
True blue flowers are rare, making up less than 10% of the naturally occurring bloom colour. While natural blue orchids do exist, such as the Blue Vanda and the Blue Lady orchid, they are not easily found outside of their native habitat. So more than likely the blue orchid you see at your local florist or supermarket is dyed.
The first dyed blue orchid, produced by the orchid grower Silver Vase, debuted in 2011. Called the Blue Mystique orchid, it is created using a natural proprietary dye formula that is injected into the stem (also known as the stake) of the white flowered orchid after the flowers have opened. Interestingly after the first year, any subsequent blooms will be white.
Since 2011 many orchid growers have become involved in the game, so there is now a variety of blue hued orchids on the market.
The vibrancy of the blue is directly related to when the dye is injected into the spike. If the dye is injected after the blooms have opened the flowers will turn an almost electric blue colour. If it’s injected while the flowers are in their bud stage, the blooms will be a lighter hue.
How to care for blue orchids
Typically, dyed blue orchids are part of the Phalaenopsis amabilis genus, commonly named the Moth orchid due to the shape of the blooms. In nature they come in a variety of colours, including white, lilac, light pink, orange, red, and yellow. These orchids are often called “beginner orchids” because they are easy to take care of and get to bloom in subsequent years.
Whether you have a dyed or natural orchid you will want to care for it in the same way.
Sunlight
Place your orchid in an area that gets plenty of bright, yet indirect sunlight for most of the day. Avoid direct sunlight as it can scorch the leaves.
Water and fertiliser
Less is more when it comes to watering orchids as their roots prefer to be dry and will rot if they sit in water. Only water the plant when the planting medium is dried out, typically every 10 to 14 days. When watering let the water run through over the roots and out the drainage holes for a couple of minutes. Avoid watering the leaves or flowers.
Feed your orchid with a slow-release, water-soluble, orchid-specific fertiliser every two weeks in the summer and every three to four weeks in the winter.
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Humidity
Being tropical plants, orchids prefer humid environments, ideally between 50 and 70%. Since no one wants the humidity in their house to be anywhere close to 70%, there are a few tricks you can do to increase the humidity directly surrounding your orchid.
The easiest way is to place a humidifier next to the plant. You can also make a humidity tray, also called a pebble tray. To make a humidity tray, simply place pebbles (beads or small rocks will also work) on a rimmed plate. Add water so that it comes to just below the top of the pebbles; place the orchid on top of the stones. It’s important that the roots do not come into contact with the water as it will cause them to rot.
Temperature
Orchids enjoy temperatures between 18 - 22ºC during the day and between 15 -18ºC at night. Luckily, this is the temperature range where most people keep their houses.
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How to get your orchid to rebloom
Moth orchids can be coaxed into reblooming every three to six months. To help this happen you want to first make sure you are following all the care instructions listed above. Next, once the current blooms are spent cut the spike/stem to no more than three inches tall. Reduce watering and feedings to give the plant a chance to rest.
Once a new leaf has emerged resume the regular water and fertiliser routine. When the new leaf is fully grown, it’s important that the orchid is exposed to a dip in temperatures (between 12°C and 18°C) at night. Do this by putting the plant close to the window in winter months or outside in the spring and fall. A new spike should appear in a month or two. Once the new spike appears move the flower back to its original, warmer location.
Once the new spike starts growing you are going to need to stake it. You will need a bamboo flower stake and some flower clips or twist ties. Be sure to add your stake when the spike is between 6 to 12 inches long, but before buds have developed. To get started, insert the flower stake close to where the spike is coming out of the plant, avoiding any roots and making sure it is secure in the growing medium. Next, secure the spike to the stake just below the first node with a flower clip or twist tie. As the spike continues to grow keep securing it to the stake. To achieve a nice, arching flower display place the topmost clip about an inch or two below the first bud that begins to grow along the spike.
FAQs
Can blue orchids stain? Dyes are typically water-based — they're not fixed and can leak out of the orchid, staining surfaces and hands. So don’t get the blooms wet and be mindful of where you place it.
Are blue orchids toxic? Dye formulas are proprietary and patented, which makes it impossible to know exactly what is in them, so to be on the safe side, keep them out of reach of kids and pets.
Should a blue orchid face the light? Don’t change the orientation of the orchid toward the light once the buds have started forming. This will cause the blooms to open up at different angles and you won’t have a showy flower display.
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