The Best Mary Janes Shoes And How They Became Fashion's Everyday Favourite
A pattern has emerged in the way we choose to dress our adult selves, with many of us sartorially regressing to styles and silhouettes that defined our childhood wardrobes. Back in our teens we couldn't wait to move on out of smock dresses and pointelle underwear, and yet here we are wearing just those 20-plus years on. One piece we're surprised to be coveting right now is the classic Mary Jane show. The familiar one-strap style might have been the first shoe we ever wore (anyone remember school shoe shopping at Clarks?) but the appeal endures as the street style set are turning to them time and time again and wearing them in countless different outfit equations. They're as good with knee-length Bermuda shorts as they are a slip dress.
The way to wear Mary Janes now is in ballerina-adjacent styles with voluminous silhouettes and brilliant white cotton socks pulled up over the ankle. The simple styles have come to compete against our ubiquitous trainers for an everyday shoe that is as neat as it is comfortable, as polished as it is accessible. It feels a little more special and jaunty than its fellow flat-soled sisters, while their closed toes work well for the office. A cacophony of options in this bracket abound whether you're going for Alaïa's all-out studs, Dear Frances' woven leather option or John Lewis' viral pair.
Once, Mary Janes were synonymous with Carrie Bradshaw declaring Manolo Blahnik's Campari style an 'urban shoe myth' in season four of Sex and The City, but it's the flatter, wear-everywhere styles that have become a wardrobe's MVP in 2024.
And so, Mary Janes have become big business for brands with styles a must-have option amongst their catalogues. 'Every shoe brand makes a version of a Mary Jane and it requires a lot of thought to make yours really stand out', Sandra Choi, Jimmy Choo's creative director tells ELLE. 'Our Bing silhouette forms the basis and inspiration behind our Mary Jane styles –they’re inherently glamorous and hand-finished with a crystal strap. I love to play with proportions, and I was inspired by the rebellious Beatnik fashion of the 1950s that focused on edgy, refined and minimalist silhouettes.'
Could Choi possibly pick a favourite Choo Mary Jane? She can! 'The Didi 45 are my go-to shoe as they incorporate three trends in one: the kitten heel, Mary Jane and sling back.' I also own these shoes and have found them to be a versatile investment; as great in the office with a pleated skirt as they are cargo pants on the weekend, or a full-skirted dress for an evening event.
The appeal of a Mary Jane is easy. They're quiet in femininity and, ultimately, practical. Even more so than the simple ballet flat as that characteristic strap ensures that it remains put on the foot. But, while practicality leads the charge, Choi encourages to go forth with a bolder, confident approach. 'We’re in an age where anything goes, and I think it’s important to embrace the power of shoes to express yourself,' she advises.
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