Alainpaul Fall 2025: On Pointe
For fall 2025, Alainpaul returned to what has become his home venue over four seasons — and his second on the official calendar — at Théâtre du Chatelet.
Trained in ballet, designer Alain Paul filled his collection with movement, captured in grand swooshes of fabric filled with airy lightness.
More from WWD
Naomi Campbell Favors Robed Silhouette and Sultry Slipdress for Louvre's Grand Fashion Dinner
How a Hotel Collaboration Turned Into a Furniture Collection for Pierre-Yves Rochon and Giorgetti
Gigi Hadid Wears Three Moschino Dresses in One at at the Louvre's Grand Fashion Dinner
His knitwear was a standout for both inventive cuts and styling, solo-sleeved and wrapped around the neck as a scarf, or enveloping the arms for a cocooning effect. Off-kilter outerwear proposed shawl collars, asymmetrical at the hem and offering up additional pockets on coats.
All of it was based on a dancers-off-duty look, with waistbands askew on skirts or folded down over trousers, cashmere knit leggings, leotard tops, exposed tights and stirrups tucked under kitten heels. Ruffles and ruching gave the pieces texture, and super chunky knits were knotted up with stockings as bow elements.
Through waves of tonal dressing and bold use of bright colors including peony pink, cherry red and royal blue, he offered a tailored take on roomy dance trousers and structured coats while the slight discombobulation of tossed-on knitwear added an element of play. It all went to the beat of feet hitting the boards.
Dance is in the details, too, including ballet slipper kitten heels and pointe shoe-inspired square-toed boots.
The LVMH Prize semifinalist launched his own line with a decade of experience at Vetements and Louis Vuitton under his belt. But that’s not to say that the designer lives in a fashion bubble. He’s keenly aware of the vibe shift swirling all about.
“There’s many aspects in this collection that are about today’s society and today’s comments on gender,” he said. “Fashion is the mirror of what happens, and it does influence me creatively.”
He wanted the models to feel androgynous, to keep the audience guessing during this coed collection.
The brand is now in about 30 retailers worldwide and growing. With this collection he further demonstrated his skill at blending tailoring with whimsy. The loose but structured silhouettes still felt sharp and on point.
Launch Gallery: Alainpaul Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Best of WWD
Sign up for WWD's Newsletter. For the latest news, follow us on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.
