11 Ultra-Rare F. P. Journe Watches We Saw in Hong Kong
Amongst the twisting alleys and vertiginous landscape of steamy Hong Kong is an outpost of the 1916 Company, one of the world’s finest retailers of new and pre-owned timepieces. Located at 1 Duddell Street in the city’s Central district, the collector’s lounge was the perfect setting in which to experience a retrospective of F.P. Journe’s high-end output in the form of the Icons of Time World Tour. Brimming with obscure and limited-edition modern references as well as historical pieces, the exhibit proved a riveting experience and a tempting playground for the horologically inclined. Robb Report’s Digital Watch Editor Allen Farmelo and I made our way there following an intriguing second full day at the Dubai Watch Week Horology Forum.
Riding the elevator to the fourth floor, we were greeted with a veritable feast of haute horlogerie, replete with the types of timepiece that cause collector’s mouths to drop agape and their eyes to water. The cause of all this fervor, of course, is the creative output of François-Paul Journe, the mad genius of his eponymous maison and widely regarded as one of the world’s most gifted watchmakers. Born in Marseille in 1957, young Journe was attending technical college by the age of 14; by 16, he was crafting his first tourbillon-equipped pocket watch; by 22, he had been commissioned to design a planetarium mechanism for famed retailer Asprey in London. By the time he established his wristwatch brand in 1999, he had been making timepieces for over a quarter century.
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Today, an F.P. Journe watch is a coveted good on par with a Porsche 911 Turbo or a bespoke Savile Row suit. Owning one requires capital, patience, and knowledge—knowledge of each watch’s movement, its complications, and what makes it special. Having the opportunity to view entire rows of them in one location is a rare treat, as the brand produces less than 1,000 pieces annually, and made significantly less than that during its early years. From simple time-and-date models within the Classique collection to the mind-blowing technological innovation of the Élégante collection (from which the most expensive quartz watch ever sold derives), Journe’s inventions are idiosyncratic, beautiful, and museum-grade. In short, they’re everything one could hope for in a high-end watch—and much more, besides.
Wile there were dozens of Journe watches on display in Hong Kong, below are the 11 that my comrade-with-camera, Allen Farmelo, gravitated to as he basked in the rare privilege of going hands-on with this incredible gathering of timepieces.
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F.P. Journe Octa Zodiaque
The last series-produced Journe watch from the brand’s early era to feature a movement made of rhodium-plated brass, the Zodiaque features a unique complication: An outer dial ring displays the signs of the Zodiac as well as the months—rotating 1/365th of its diameter per day, it’s synched to the watch’s date display. Inspired by an 18th-century astronomical clock, it was produced in a limited run of just 150 pieces released in 2004.
Year of Production: 2003
Case Size: 40mm
Case Material: Platinum
Dial Material: Slate grey gold
F.P. Journe 30 Years Anniversary Tourbillon ref. T30
Modeled after a pocket watch completed in 1983, this limited edition of 99 pieces takes much influence from the work of Abraham-Louis Breguet: Stark in appearance, its relatively simple dial hides within it the magnificent Journe caliber 1412, which hearkens back to the firm’s early era by using gilded brass components. Cased in a combination of rose gold and sterling silver, its pièce de résistance—a handmade tourbillon—is hidden beneath a guillochéd caseback.
Year of Production: 2013
Case Size: 40mm
Case Material: Rose gold/silver
Dial Material: Grained silver
Chronomètre Holland & Holland
Using antique Damascus steel gun barrels from famed London gunsmith Holland & Holland, Journe produced a limited series of 66 watches unlike anything else in the brand’s production. Dating from the mid-19th century, the barrels consist of steel rods wound around a mandrel and welded together; these are then chemically “browned,” resulting in the unique pattern found on the dials. Due to the production method, each watch dial is slightly different.
Year of Production: 2018
Case Size: 39mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Dial Material: Damascus steel
F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance ‘Pre-Souscription’ ref. R
The Chronomètre à Résonance is the first wristwatch to take advantage of the phenomenon of resonance—one in which dual balances mounted close together will eventually oscillate together, stabilizing their rates. The ‘Pre-Souscription’ ref. R from 2000 predates models sold on the ‘soucription’ model and features shallower hand engraving on its caseback, though like the ‘soucription,’ it has a hand-finished lacquer dial and a rhodium-plated brass movement.
Year of Production: 2000
Case Size: 38mm
Case Material: Platinum
Dial Material: Yellow gold
F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Third Generation ref. T
The Tourbillon Souverain, produced in several generations, features a tourbillon with a remontoir d’égaltié, a mechanism that delivers consistent torque to the oscillator as the power reserve winds down. The chronometric precision offered by the hand-wound Caliber 1498 is matched by the beauty of its yellow gold dial, which is itself paired to a platinum case featuring a hand-engraved caseback. Rare and striking, it measures a perfect 38mm in diameter.
Year of Production: 1999
Case Size: 38mm
Case Material: Platinum
Dial Material: Yellow gold
F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance Special Edition for Sincere Fine Watches ref. RN
Part of a limited edition of just 10 pieces, this magnificent take on the Chronomètre à Résonance for Asian retailer Sincere Fine Watches features the hand-wound Caliber 1499.2 with 18K rose gold bridges and mainplate. Beautifully finished and cased in rose gold, it represents a niche within a niche: While numerous boutique editions are equipped with black dials, very few feature black mother of pearl.
Year of Production: 2006
Case Size: 40mm
Case Material: Rose gold
Dial Material: Black mother of pearl
F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance Ruthenium Collection
Part of a limited edition of just 10 pieces, this magnificent take on the Chronomètre à Résonance for Asian retailer Sincere Fine Watches features the hand-wound Caliber 1499.2 with 18K rose gold bridges and mainplate. Beautifully finished and cased in rose gold, it represents a niche within a niche: While numerous boutique editions are equipped with black dials, very few feature black mother of pearl.
Year of Production: Circa 2002
Case Size: 40mm
Case Material: Platinum
Dial Material: Ruthenium-coated 18K gold
F.P. Journe Octa Chronograph Ruthenium Collection
Introduced in 2001, the Octa Chronograph represented F.P. Journe’s first foray into chronograph production. This Ruthenium Collection version from circa 2005 is special for its ruthenium-plated dial offset with silver guilloché and ruthenium-plated brass movement. (Because the series took several years to produce, it doesn’t feature one of the gold movements introduced in 2004.)
Year of Production: Circa 2005
Case Size: 40mm
Case Material: Platinum
Dial Material: Ruthenium-coated 18K gold
F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain ref. CS
Relatively reserved compared to the Chronomètre à Résonance or Octa Chronograph, the Chronomètre Souverain is a handsome dress watch with sub-seconds and a power reserve indicator. Cased in platinum and fitted with a classically-inspired silver guilloché dial, it’s powered by the 18K rose gold Caliber 1304 with a 54-hour power reserve. Of all the Journe models at the retrospective, this one perhaps flies most under the radar.
Year of Production: 2012
Case Size: 38mm
Case Material: Platinum
Dial Material: Silver guilloché
F.P. Journe Vagabondge I ref. VBI
Part of a 68-piece limited edition, the tonneau-shaped Vagabondge I is a dressy piece that uses an unconventional readout to display the time: Within its 37.5mm rose gold case is a slate grey dial featuring a jump hour complication that points to the minutes along a black and white chemin de fer outer track. Powered by the hand-wound Caliber 1504.2 in 18K rose gold, it strikingly blends Art Deco and modern influences in a single watch.
Year of Production: 2022
Case Size: 37.5mm
Case Material: Rose gold
Dial Material: Sapphire
F.P. Journe Élégante ref. ELHT
Unlike the purely mechanically-powered watches constituting the majority of Journe’s collection, the brilliant Élégante uses an electro-mechanical movement that conserves energy, allowing for a power reserve of eight to 10 years in active use or 18 years in standby mode. One of the most innovative ladies’ watches produced thus far by any brand during the 21st century, this version features a titanium case fitted with 418 brilliant-cut diamonds.
Year of Production: 2018
Case Size: 40mm
Case Material: Titanium with diamonds
Dial Material: Sapphire
