Zambia's eco-friendly safari lodges are a total game-changer
Have you ever wanted to wake up to the sound of warthogs outside your window? A packed safari trip across Zambia provided this novel experience. But it was far from the most awe-inducing moment on a tour that saw me hurtling through a gorge via helicopter, paddling on a sheer drop over Victoria Falls and coming face-to-face with elephants, lions and endangered white rhinos.
Aside from the amazing wildlife encounters, however, I was also amazed at the wellbeing benefits a safari can provide - from better sleep to less screen time, fresh, seasonal cuisine and being immersed in nature, it's like the ultimate retreat (with the occasional predator thrown in).
Like popular safari destinations Kenya and Tanzania, Zambia's home to an abundance of wild animals which scattered across its untamed landscape. However Zambia’s smaller visitor numbers makes for better, closer encounters with wildlife, often without a competing jeep in sight. This makes for a more authentic safari experience, even if you're staying somewhere that’s out-of-this-world luxurious.
Sounds epic. So where did you stay?
Three lodges across Zambia: Lilayi Lodge, based on an expanse of farmland just outside of Lusaka; Ila Safari Lodge, perched on the edge of the Kafue river and Tongabezi, another riverside stay nestled on the banks of the Zambezi River.
Ila and Tongabezi are properties by Green Safaris, a company that pairs five-star service with eco-friendly initiatives, such as silent safaris and running its lodges on solar energy. While long-haul flights always carry a carbon cost, selecting safari stays that prioritise sustainability can help to promote long-lasting benefits for surrounding wildlife and local communities.
Lilayi Lodge
At our first stop in Zambia I was on high alert for wild activity on the drive to Lilayi. And I wasn't disappointed. On the long winding road up to the lodge, I spied fluffy bush fowl and antelope amid the sandy long grass before spotting two giraffes, a mother and calf, looking lofty and unbothered. A promising start.
As for the lodge itself, Lilayi’s rustic but super-comfy huts are nestled within lush greenery that plays host to local zebras, giraffes and warthogs who can be seen grazing by the swimming pool. The following day, I watch transfixed as a David Attenborough documentary casually unfolded while I sipped my morning coffee.
Ila Safari Lodge
Kafue in western Zambia is the country's oldest and largest national park, and home to Ila Safari Lodge. Named after the Ila people, a local cattle-herding tribe, the campsite hosts 10 luxury tents perched on the banks of the Kafue river and is centred around a cleverly designed hub that looks like an immense woven basket.
My tent, if you can call it that, was more akin to a swanky cabin, with sweeping views of the river ahead, a lockable door and a private bath on the balcony. I grew to love falling asleep to the strangely soothing sound of growling hippos and chirping insects.
On a safari day, you’re woken up at 5am while it’s still dark with a gentle ‘Good morning!’ and a flask of hot water for coffee. Caffeine gulped and one steamy shower later, you’re led to a roaring fire pit and formidable breakfast spread, where Ila’s chef stands on guard to cook up any requests.
Fueled up and ready to go, we were ushered to a Landcruiser and wrapped in a cosy poncho to watch Kafue’s wildlife wake up as the sun rose and spend the day traversing the park’s grassy plains searching for roving animals.
Tongabezi
Tongabezi is based in Livingstone, just 12km upstream from Victoria Falls (known in Zambia as Mosi-oa-Tunya, or, ‘The Smoke That Thunders’). Tucked within a sculpted jungle of tropical greenery, it has jaw-dropping views over the Zambezi River, which forms the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe.
The riverside cottages were a picture of opulence, and as far from a rough-and-ready campsite as you can imagine. The dining choices were as extravagant as the rooms and included the option of a private ‘sampan’ dinner floating on the river, where each course is paddled out to you.
Unexpected encounters...
‘Oh dear! It looks like Vinny’s just got here too.’ There were the words I heard when I arrived at Ila Safari Lodge, and an enormous hippo suddenly appeared metres away on the lawn by the infinity pool. Ila’s manager, who announced his arrival, told guests that, while Vinny’s a regular visitor, he’s a bit of a wildcard. Incidentally, I’d read that hippos are hugely territorial and can run faster than Usain Bolt. However Vinny seemed more interested in tackling the lawn than tackling us. In any case, we retreated to the safety of our rooms.
Animals such as vervet monkeys and antelope happily reside in and around the camp, so Vinny wasn't the only unplanned run-in. Trudging up the scrubby path to my tent one afternoon, I was stopped in my tracks by the sight of juddering tree branches and the sound of snapping wood. My eyes darted up to see the tusks and vast flapping ears of a towering elephant, half-hidden in the juicy foliage that’s serving as his snack. It was Nelson, another local wildcard. He huffed. I froze. A staff member materialised and I realised he’d been gently calling my name the entire time.
‘Step back slowly, and come this way,’ he said with an encouraging smile.
I walked steadily backwards, eyes firmly planted on Nelson’s tusks, and kept stepping until I was out of his orbit. I thanked my rescuer. This is why, after dark, you’re only allowed to walk around camp while accompanied by members of staff (sweetly nicknamed ‘bush Ubers’). But I was secretly pleased that I got to see Nelson up close.
Tell me more about the game drives!
It's hard to overstate just how many special wildlife experiences we crammed into one trip. From extravagant floating lunches flanked by hippos and crocodiles to break-of-dawn game drives spent chasing rare sightings, every day presented a host of pinch-me moments.
One such game drive in Kafue led by two of Ila’s expert guides saw us tracking down big cats in one of the lodge’s silent e-Cruisers. Charged on the campsite solar farms, these vehicles are the first of their kind in Zambia. They’re less noisy and invasive than your typical jeep, they make you feel that bit closer to nature.
Meeting the big cats
Our guides’ expertise meant we were lucky enough to track down a male cheetah, who we eventually found reclining in the shade of a bushy green tree. We marvelled at his fluffy ears in hushed tones from behind our binoculars. In return, he looked back at us with only a passing interest. There were no other vehicles crowding us out, so the encounter felt even more exclusive. It was just us, the warm breeze and a predator we wish we could pet.
We saw various species of antelope like impala, bushbuck and puku, as well as native birdlife, and it wasn't long before we found a local lioness blending into the wheat-coloured grass. We watched in awe as she grunted and softly roared – her way of communicating with family nearby. A huge yawn revealed a set of razor-sharp white teeth, and I wished, just for a second, that our vehicle had sides.
As the sky shifted from dusky blue to tangerine, we stopped by the riverbank for a safari sundowner – local lingo for a tipple enjoyed at sunset. As night fell, we drained our bottles of Mosi beer and hopped back in the e-cruiser, torches on, to look out for nocturnal activity.
We gasped and slowed down to catch a pair of elephants soundlessly strolling by, a mother with her baby keeping close. We continued on. Suddenly another pause on our journey so we could tune into the chattering of insects and nocturnal birds – a rustle here, a rumbling there. With only the glittering stars puncturing the darkness, the wild expanse surrounding us felt endless.
Walking with white rhinos
Residing in Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park is a tiny population of white rhinos. These rare mammals are guarded 24/7 by a team of armed rangers, whose AK-47s belie their unwavering dedication to the animals. Poaching remains the biggest threat to white rhinos, but conservation efforts mean they have a chance of increasing their dwindling numbers. Walking up to see them up close and meeting their protectors was an enormous privilege.
To that point, it was our guides’ deep knowledge, care and boundless enthusiasm that made every brush with nature all-the-more impactful and memorable.
What other activities can you do?
You’re spoiled for choice, but here are some highlights. A trip to Livingstone wouldn’t be complete without a visit to Victoria Falls, one of the seven natural wonders of the world, and we opted to take a dip at the top too
First, we took a speedy scenic boat ride to Livingstone Island. Next, we paddled, then swam to Devil’s Pool, which sits at the top of the cliffs overlooking the magnificent falls. It’s not for the faint of heart, but does makes for a hell of a photograph. (FYI, if you’re in Zambia during a month when Devil’s Pool is closed, you can go to nearby Angel’s Pool instead.)
If you want to do something truly exclusive, then look no further than Batoka Sky’s private helicopter and meal pairing. Soaring through Livingstone’s Batoka gorge to land, 007-style, on the white sands on the edge of the Zambezi River, is pure bucket-list material.
This secluded waterside stretch is called Bobo Camp, and it’s the most impressive lunchtime setting I’ve ever experienced, boasting panoramic views of the mighty surrounding cliffs and the Zambezi’s frothy white rapids. Our lunch, a lavish spread of freshly prepared meat, fish and salads, came courtesy of The Royal Livingstone Hotel.
After some beach frolicking and with our bellies full, we clambered back into the chopper for a return journey through the gorge and up over Victoria Falls. I was shocked at how feather-light the helicopter felt as we swooped up into the crystal-clear sky and were treated to dizzying bird’s-eye views of the blue-green landscape below. When we squinted we were able to spot ant-sized herds of elephants – now that's a view you don’t forget in a hurry.
Go there
Henrietta's trip was arranged by Zambia Travel. Rooms at Lilayi Lodge start at around £173.50 BOOK NOW. Rooms at Ila Safari Lodge start at around £473. Rooms at Tongabezi start at around £579.50. You can book the Batoka Sky Bobo Camp experience and a walk with white rhinos via Livingstone’s Adventure. Return flights from London Gatwick to Kenneth Kaunda International Airport in Lusaka start from around £535.
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