Wilbur Smith's Cape Town: 'I like the way the city changes with time'
Why Cape Town?
The city is defined by the grandeur of Table Mountain, the open expanses of the sea, and the spectacular African scenery just a stone’s throw from the city centre. I have had a home in the Constantia area of the city for nearly 40 years and I’m usually there about three months a year during the summer. I find the people are very laid-back and it is a very easy place to be, with no great hustle and bustle. I grew up in Northern Rhodesia [now Zambia] but remember visiting the University of Cape Town when I was playing rugby in the late 1950s. I set two of my earlier novels Rage and The Diamond Hunters, around the area. I like the way the city changes with the time.
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Anything special I should pack?
Binoculars and a camera. There is so much wildlife to see, either in the private game reserves around the area or you can see penguins at Boulders Beach near Simon’s Town. You can also take a trip to False Bay in Cape Town or drive south down the coast to Gansbaai - which is known to be the “great white shark capital of the world” - to cage dive with sharks.
What do you miss most when you're away?
The quiet of the city.
What's the first thing you do when you arrive?
I relax on the lawn outside my home, and enjoy the view of Table Mountain with a bottle of South African red wine.
Wilbur Smith - favourite Cape Town haunts
Where's the best place to stay?
The Cellars-Hohenort Hotel is one of the best hotels in Cape Town (00 27 21 794 2137; collectionmcgrath.com)
Where would you meet friends for a drink?
Table Bay hotel (21 406 5000; suninternational.com/table-bay/) has nice bars. The high teas served there are also sumptuous.
Where is the best place for lunch?
The Cattle Baron does excellent steaks (21 794 4930; cattlebaron.co.za). The Square at the Vineyard Hotel (21 657 4500; vineyard.co.za) is very good too. I also love dining at The Charles Café & Rooms in the heart of the De Waterkant district (82 455 39 33; thecharles.cafe).
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And for dinner?
Willougby & Co on the waterfront does really good seafood (21 418 6115; willoughbyandco.co.za). You can’t beat the Belmond Mount Nelson Hotel for a luxurious dinner. (21 483 1000; belmond.com).
Where would you take a first-time visitor?
The waterfront is the buzzing place to be, with a wealth of good restaurants and wine bars. And everyone must see Table Mountain. You can use a cable car to get to the summit, and then have lunch, and either walk or use the cable car to come back down. The Cape of Good Hope has wildlife reserves, where you can get a close view of game. You should also do a tour of the vineyards.
What should I avoid?
Visiting in high season – most of the hotels are full and the city gets very busy. I find Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was incarcerated, a bit depressing, but many tourists go there.
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What should I bring home?
African carvings, headdresses, or similar curios which can be found at various venues along the road to Cape Point.
Public transport or taxi?
Hire a car or use taxis.
Manbag or money belt?
I would err on the side of caution and use a moneybelt if you plan to be out and about in the evening. But most of the time the city is perfectly safe.
Anywhere that isn't your kind of town?
Moscow. My wife and I visited a few years ago and we had a hairy moment when she was pulled over by the police while driving along a road. We haven’t been back since.
War Cry by Wilbur Smith (published by HarperCollins ; £14.99) is out today.
Interview by Roz Lewis
