Why St Kitts deserves a spot on your Caribbean bucket list
I first visited the Caribbean, the beautiful British Virgin Islands to be specific, in November last year and I instantly fell in love. There was something about being so far away from home, surrounded by chalk-white beaches, jade waters and swaying palms, that allowed me to switch off and forget about my worries in a way that I’ve never been able to do on holiday before.
So, when I got the opportunity to return to paradise shores and visit St Kitts this year, naturally, I jumped at the chance. Unlike some of its better-known Caribbean counterparts, the tiny two-island nation – the smallest country in the Americas, FYI – has an uncrowded allure and plenty to offer beyond all-inclusive resorts and fly-and-flop breaks.
Draped in lush rainforest and crowned by the mighty 3,972ft volcanic peak of Mount Liamuiga, St Kitts boasts superb hiking, footprint-free beaches, historic sights and characterful bars, plus direct flights from London and the opportunity to visit its sleepier sister isle Nevis. It’s made for those who want to venture beyond the region’s usual suspects and explore local culture, as well as laze by the pool.
Sound like your cup of tea? Here are our highlights, including what to do, where to stay and how to get there…
So, where to begin?
Of course, you could make a beeline for the beach, but I’d suggest shaking off the jet lag and making the most of the island’s lush, verdant interior with a rainforest hike.
We meet our guide O’Neil Mulraine at Wingfield Estate, home to old sugar mill ruins and the first working rum estate and distillery in the Caribbean. The site has been painstakingly restored by Yorkshireman Maurice Widdowson, allowing visitors to discover the impressive remains and learn about the island’s turbulent colonial past.
We leave the estate behind as O’Neil guides us through jumbles of greenery into the dense rainforest. It’s a relief to escape the scorching midday sun and bask in the shade of mango, tamarind and almond trees. O’Neil has been leading tours here for over forty years and his botanical knowledge shines through, as he introduces us to many of St Kitts’ most important plants and their medicinal properties, which have been used for centuries to cure all sorts of ailments.
In the mood for adventure? You can live out your best Tarzan fantasies and plunge through the rainforest canopy on an exhilarating zip line with Sky Safaris. We skip the thrill-seeking and head back to Wingfield for a masterclass in rum.
In 2020, Maurice’s son Jack founded the Old Road Rum Company, on a mission to reclaim the island’s past and bring back rum distillation to the island. For now, it’s crafted from imported batch rum, aged for 12 years then blended and bottled.
I get my first taste in a glorious nutmeg-dusted rum punch, which I sip a little too quickly as we tour the preserved aqueduct, chimney, boiling house, mill house and lime kiln. Feeling a little woozy, I’m grateful for the bowl of plantain chips plonked next to me as we start the tasting.
Hit the strip
Now that you’ve got a taste for rum, make your way to “The Strip”, which borders South Frigate Bay. Here, you’ll find a row of rum bars, beach shacks and casual restaurants where laid-back Kittitians gather to eat, drink and “lime” (local slang for socialising).
We nab a spot at the aptly-named Boozies on the Beach, and savour ice-cold bottles of Carib beer and frozen mango margaritas, soundtracked by the lapping waves and soulful reggae beats. With the sand beneath my toes and the tropical sun beating down on my face, I find it all too easy to get into the limin' spirit.
We rock up on a Tuesday afternoon, so the atmosphere is relatively mellow. If you want to experience the island’s party scene in all its glory, Friday and Saturday nights are your best bet, when the strip comes alive with bonfires, barbecues and live reggae and soca music into the early hours.
Catamaran cruise to Nevis
No visit to St Kitts is complete without a day trip to Nevis. You can catch a public ferry or water taxi over to the pint-sized island, but a catamaran cruise is a fun way to do it. We opt for a half-day tour with Leeward Island Charters which includes snorkelling stops, an open bar and a beach lunch in Nevis.
As we sail across the cobalt waters, watching palm-lined beaches and rugged mountains roll by, I stretch out on the upper deck feeling utterly relaxed. After an hour or so, we don our snorkels and float weightlessly in the still waters, surrounded by all kinds of tropical fish and multi-hued coral. It’s the perfect morning.
Before long, Nevis’ dramatic volcanic peak comes into view and we drop anchor at Pinney’s Beach, which is lined with a collection of multicoloured beach bars and shacks. We head straight to Sunshine’s Beach Bar & Grill, which, apparently, is the place to be. Previous visitors include Beyonce, Jay Z and Oprah no less.
We’re lucky enough to meet the vivacious owner, Sunshine, who insists on sending an array of specialities over to our table. We feast on fluffy rice, smoky kidney beans, grilled snapper and the best mac and cheese I’ve tried, washing it down with the bar’s legendary Killer Bee cocktail. The exact recipe is a highly guarded secret, but rest assured, it contains a hefty measure of rum – no more than two glasses is advisable, according to locals.
A farm-to-table experience at Liamuiga Natural Farm
If an authentic culinary experience is what you’re after, St Kitts won’t disappoint. While many Caribbean tourist hotspots have been heavily influenced by US culture in recent years, the island has stayed true to its roots and its unpretentious eateries serve up local classics. We’re talking spicy goat water stew, crispy conch fritters, sweet coconut dumplings, fried plantain and the juiciest grilled lobster you’ve ever tasted.
For a real foodie experience, Liamuiga Natural Farm, a family-owned coffee and citrus plantation set high in the rainforest, is not to be missed. Here, guests are invited to learn about the farm’s organic practices and discover the vast array of fruit and veg grown on site (guavas, passion fruits, coconuts and green bananas) with the tour culminating in a farm-to-table feast.
After a steep climb into the thick rainforest, winding round tight hairpin bends and passing mango-stealing monkeys, our ex-military truck pulls up at the plantation. “It’s time for breakfast, I hope you’re hungry!” our guide Kerryn “Tiem” Williams exclaims.
On a communal wooden table, we’re presented with a colourful spread created entirely from the farm’s produce. I pile my banana leaf (no plates here) high with pumpkin pancakes and papaya jam, breadfruit salad, ackee, saltfish and aubergine ratatouille, unable to resist rounds two and three, even though I know we’ll be eating again within the hour.
Our bellies full, Williams talks us on a stroll around the site, showing us some of the ingredients used in our breakfast, as well as pointing out pineapples, mangos, green bananas, avocados, limes and all kinds of squash. Then, it’s back to the table for a three-course lunch, which includes vegetable broth with a zingy chilli sauce, poached fish, salad and the creamiest coffee ice cream I’ve ever tasted.
Anything else I should do?
If your weary legs are tired after all that activity, then a trip to the beach is in order. Cockleshell Bay, on the island’s south peninsula is considered one of the finest, with a long stretch of golden-yellow sand, warm waters and sweeping views over to Nevis. Turtle beach, which is protected from the choppy Atlantic waves, provides excellent snorkelling, while South Bank Bay on the eastern tip of the island is ideal for those who prefer to venture off the beaten track.
For history buffs, there’s Brimstone Hill Fortress National Park, a sprawling hilltop defence set up by British forces in the 1690s and now a Unesco World Heritage Site. You could easily spend a whole day here, touring the well-preserved fortress and extensive military museum and taking in the panoramic views across neighbouring St Barths, Saba and Stasia.
St Kitts Scenic Railway, which takes passengers on an 18-mile ride around the north coast of the island, is an excellent, low-key way to see the island. The narrow gauge line is the only working railway in the Caribbean and was used to transport sugar cane from the plantations to the mills until 2005, when the industry shut down. Now, tourists can enjoy a two-hour ride on the historic double-decker train, with guided commentary, drinks and entertainment included.
Where should I stay?
Belle Mont Sanctuary Resort at Kittitian Hill
Set high up in the hills, surrounded by lush greenery and wild inhabitants, Belle Mont is a paradise for nature lovers. There are 40 cottages and villas in total, each with its own private plunge pool and open-air bathroom, complete with a toilet, shower and freestanding tub. Panic not, privacy isn’t an issue – the cottages are enveloped in strategically planted palms, allowing you to drink in the sweeping sea views, with only butterflies, jungle frogs and perhaps the odd vervent monkey for company.
The hotel’s main restaurant, The Kitchen, is a destination within itself. The food philosophy is farm-to-fork (the fruit, veg and herbs are all grown on the estate and the fish and meat is all local too) with a focus on authentic Caribbean flavours. Think saltfish fritters, pickled pineapple and aubergine, Mahi-Mahi with papaya chutney, rice and peas, plus tongue-tinglingly delicious desserts like sweet potato pie and carrot cake. Just incredible.
Rooms at Belle Mont Sanctuary Resort start from $879 (plus taxes) per room per night, including breakfast. Book here
Park Hyatt St Kitts
For beachside luxury with a side of Caribbean charm, head to Park Hyatt St Kitts. The five-star is perfectly positioned on Banana Bay, a curve of flawless beach with calm crystalline waters. Rooms (there are 126 in total) are airy and modern, with floor-to-ceiling windows and private balconies or patios with vistas over the manicured lawns and glittering sea. Top level rooms also boast private plunge pools and sundecks. The food is a delight, whether you opt for the lavish breakfast buffet, a seafood-heavy lunch at the Fisherman’s Village or a fancy fine dining experience at Stone Barn. Service is slick and the staff are warm, friendly and attentive, without overdoing it.
The sprawling resort is a top choice if you have children in tow – there’s a large kid-friendly pool overlooking the sea, a complimentary kids’ club and myriad daily activities from kayak lessons to movie screenings. While the little ones are occupied, parents can laze on a sunlounger by the adults-only pool, head to the Sugar Mill spa for a pampering treatment or take advantage of the hotel’s water taxis and explore the island’s surroundings.
Rooms at Park Hyatt St. Kitts start from $375 (plus taxes) per room per night on a room only basis. Book here
When to visit
Peak season runs from December to April, when the weather is at its best (warm, clear and dry) but the prices are higher. Rates are cheaper during summer and autumn when it’s hotter, stickier and wetter. Hurricane season officially runs from June to November, with the highest risk in August and September and October.
If you visit at the end of June, your trip will coincide with the legendary St Kitts Music Festival, which has drawn household names over the years including Shaggy, Jason Derulo, Sean Paul and Shaggy. Mary J Blige is on the line-up this year. December is also a great time to visit if you want to soak up the party atmosphere, as St Kitts Carnival (known as Sugar Mas), is in full swing from mid-December to the beginning of January.
How to get there
British Airways flies direct from London Gatwick to St Kitts twice weekly, with return flights starting from £506 per person. The flight is around ten hours and includes an hour-long stopover in Antigua each way, but you don’t have to disembark. Book here
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