Why Grow up When You Can GCDS?

In GCDS' world, adults deserve toys, too. For it's Fall/Winter 2024 collection at Milan Fashion Week, the Italian label awakens cherished possessions of the past. Helmed by Giuliano Calza, the collection "Toys for Adults" comprises looks with Hello Kitty, Chucky and Dracula while the show invite offers a custom Polly Pocket with a tiny GCDS outfit.

With its collection title, one might assume the show to be airy and light but Calza had other plans. Instead he chose to tell a story about transitioning from a kid to an adult. Styled by Carine Roitfeld, the first looks are white, sheer and freeing. Next, comes the wedding dress with a black veil and then garments go from light to dark and dramatic. The final look is a voluminous jet black gown which he tells us is for a funeral. Following life’s ebbs and flows, the collection celebrates the inner child as a staple of freedom.

Below, Calza shares how one piece of critique led him to create the show concept and how he finds joy in the simple things.

How would you describe this show in one word?

Toys.

Who would you be if you could be one character from your show?

With the state of today, I'm very much a Hello Kitty because you can make people happy but you can not say too much.

What was your favortie childhood toy?

I didn't have many toys growing up so, I spent the the most time with my dog and my bike.

What was the inspiration for "Toys for Adults"?

So, at last year's show someone told me "Okay, when are you going to grow up then?" And I was like why can't my world just stay young and fun? So, I decided to take this idea and to create toys for adults. Everyone is expecting to find this fun and cute show and instead it's going to be very dramatic. I mix my love for fun and entertainment with what I know how to do which is, of course, leather, knitwear, drama and, of course, little touches of styling.

There's going to be Hello Kitty to the next level, with 70% of the looks including the character. I was really obsessed with music from the movies growing up so, there will also be a live pianist playing Universal soundtracks.

It's everything I love and it's going to be so fun to watch.

What was the toy that came to mind when you thought of this concept?

It was Chucky because when I was a kid I watched it with my brother and I was terrified but at the same time I couldn't stop thinking about it. It's such a weird doll that can be both scary and playful at the same time.

Of course, Hello Kitty, as well. I used to live in China and whenever I passed an exam or wanted to get myself a treat I would always buy myself a little Hello Kitty something. So, at the end of my stay in China, I collected hundreds of Hello Kitty items. One of my favorite looks from this show is a very simple tuxedo that has Hello Kitty buttons and embroidery and I'm like someone is going to get married in this.

What was your first childhood memory of fashion?

It's a really specific skirt. My mom used to have this pleated white skirt with a tennis player playing tennis on it. I used to spend hours just playing next to it. I was obsessed. Then we moved houses so, I lost the skirt but it was such staple item and led me to grow up fantasizing about creating fashion. I tried to recreate it but it was not perfect so, I want it to exist in my mind and nowhere else.

You bring so many people joy, what brings you joy?

I've been really blessed with my life so, I'm really aware of who I am and I just want to entertain and make people happy. When people come to my shows and tell me "I just stepped into another dimension," I'm filled with so much happiness. I love the criticism as well. I think in a world where everyone has a voice to criticize, I can make experiences out of it. In terms of what makes me happy personally, it's all of the normal things. I love to cook for my friends and welcome people into my home. I've had so many blessings in my life and I want to offer that to people who haven't. When I see people on the street they don't recognize but I love seeing them enjoying their GCDS looks. The crazier it is, the happier I am.