Why the Golden State is the perfect autumnal bucket list destination
If you’re anything like me, and your idea of a great holiday includes a mixture of adventure, some well deserved downtime and some great food and drink, I’d thoroughly recommend a trip to Northern California.
I’m specifically talking about Yosemite National Park, Lake Tahoe and Sonoma County, where you’ll find everything you could hope for, and more. Flying into San Francisco, and glimpsing the Golden Gate Bridge from above, I just knew I was about to live my American road trip fantasy.
First up, Yosemite
Having driven to Tenaya at Yosemite, it was immediate to see that we’d arrived at the perfect base for exploring the area. With a choice of accommodation (rooms start from £117 a night) in the main lodge, cottages or cabins, all nestled within the pine trees you forget your jet lag even exists.
With ancient redwoods and towering rock formations, you’ll spend your time in Yosemite National Park looking up in awe. Mariposa Grove contains 500 giant sequoias (redwoods), with the oldest being a mere 3,000 years old.
Once you’re done having your mind blown by the size of the trees, head to Tunnel View for the most famous view of Yosemite Valley. Here you’ll see El Capitan, Bridalveil Fall and Half Dome. Naturally, there are plenty of trails to follow, which can take you to Lower Yosemite Fall, the base of El Capitan and to Taft Point to name a few. Taft Point in particular is a great place for a sunset picnic with panoramic views of Yosemite Valley.
After becoming acquainted with Yosemite Valley, I’d thoroughly recommend spending some time in the historic Gold Rush town of Mariposa, and specifically the Yosemite Climbing Association Museum and Gallery. The history of climbing in Yosemite has been tirelessly documented and curated with the same passion as the groundbreaking climbers who first conquered Yosemite’s big walls. Although in the early days the sport was dominated by men, the museum has made a point to highlight the pioneering women too, and what an inspiration they were.
Head to Lake Tahoe
Next up was Lake Tahoe, and to get there we chose to drive the Tioga Pass. Yes, there’s a quicker route, but this one took us back through Yosemite Park. With lay-by after lay-by each with a more impressive viewing point than the last, it’s worth every minute. If you’ve not quite had your fix of emulating a mountain goat, you’ll find that you can park up, follow a seemingly unassuming trail and lo and behold, you’ve stumbled across a secluded view of El Capitan and Half Dome.
Since we made the most of the journey to Lake Tahoe, we once again arrived in the dark, but the twinkling of lights on the water hinted at the beauty to be revealed in the morning. Mother Nature did not disappoint. Having hopped across the border into Nevada, sitting on the balcony of my room at Edgewood Tahoe (rooms start from £206 a night), with a brew in hand, watching the sunrise over the lake was something special. The hotel has a front row seat to the lake, even the outside pool runs parallel to it, and with mountains in the background - you’d be hard pressed to find such an awe-inspiring place for a swim.
As a lover of water sports, I was super excited to go kayaking with Clearly Tahoe in clear-bottomed kayaks. Not only did we get to explore a little of the lake, but we were taught about the Washoe Native Americans who deem the lake itself and Cave Rock (which towers over the southeastern shore) as sacred. The fresh water lake is crystal clear, and bluer than I could have imagined, but also a little chilly in early Autumn. That being said, it was hard to resist a quick swim to round off the kayaking session.
Not all lake adventures need to be water-based. Walking through Taylor Creek Visitor Center, you’re able to experience the water from a different perspective. Forest trails open up to lakeside beaches, which make for a great picnic spot, or to just watch the world go by. If you time your visit during the salmon spawning season, be sure to keep an eye out for bears. The park rangers ensure visitors keep a safe distance, but there was something so magical about being relatively close to a bear!
Finish in Sonoma County
Obviously, being in California, it would be rude not to try some wine. When driving to Sonoma County, we passed vineyard after vineyard, which naturally got me excited for what was to come. Marine Layer Wines in Healdsburg is a wine bar of dreams. The cosy, but effortlessly cool interior invites you in, whilst the tasting menus keep you there.
You really could spend your whole visit in Sonoma Country exploring vineyards, and I wouldn’t blame you, but if you’re looking for something different, Sonoma Zipline Adventures (from £95 pp) will help you clear the cobwebs. Blasting through the tree-tops at 35mph (stats courtesy of my trusty watch), along a 1500 metre zipline certainly gave me a fresh perspective of the Redwoods. Did I scream a little? Yes, yes I did. Did I love it? Absolutely!
If you’re hoping for a more sedate activity, a touch of forest bathing within the grounds of Dawn Ranch in Guerneville (rooms start at £237 a night) is certainly one to add to the list. Lying under a majestic Redwood, listening to the sounds of nature was something else.
Alternatively, you can try your hand at scent making with FLWR Napa Valley. With a choice of seven scents local to the area, you’ll be able to concoct a perfume or room fragrance that is personal to you, whilst also creating a unique memento of your trip.
Dawn Ranch itself is a place of serenity. From the natural materials and earthy tones of the interior design, to the spa which includes a sauna with infrared heaters (heal me!), it’s easy to feel the weight of the world lifting from your shoulders. Not only is it beautiful to look at, but the food is fantastic too. Dinner at The Lodge had me drooling over Yellowfin Tiradito and Cacio e Pepe dishes. It was safe to say I was excited for breakfast, and my goodness it did not disappoint.
Rounding off the trip with one final stint on the road by heading back to San Francisco, there’s plenty of opportunities for further exploration. Time your visit right, and Bodega Bay is a great spot for some land-based whale watching, but be sure to bring some binoculars or be prepared to squint at the horizon looking out for the tell-tale splashes of the whales.
The verdict
Having made the most of our 7 days, it was clear to see that you could easily spend at least a week in each location. Northern California’s peak season is during the summer, but if you’re hoping to beat the crowds, witness the glow of the autumnal trees and hopefully spot the odd bear or whale whilst you’re at it, Autumn is the perfect time to plan your visit.
Fly from London Heathrow to San Francisco return with United Airlines from £532.
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