‘I went on a yoga retreat at a Caribbean eco hotel, here’s what happened’
I’m standing barefoot on a wooden yoga deck with my eyes closed. When I open them I see a vivid rainbow arching into the sparkling Caribbean Sea below and the sheer beauty of the scene brings tears to my eyes. I’m surprised at how emotional I feel, though perhaps it’s inevitable after a week of heart-opening yoga, nourishing food and sunshine at Castara Retreats.
A unique eco hotel set in lush hillside above Castara Bay on the north coast of Tobago, Castara Retreats is one of those places that feels like coming home. From the moment I arrived, after a flight via St Lucia (there are no direct flights from the UK), a feeling of peace and contentment settled. It’s a no news, no shoes kind of place, where hens wander freely, hammocks are slung above terraces and you can go to breakfast barefoot.
Sounds relaxing, tell me about the yoga?
Led by Jovander Pacheco (Judha), Castara’s wellness manager and resident yogi, and her partner Leah, the yoga was transformational. I’ve been on retreats before and even got my 200-hour yoga teaching training qualification, but there was something about this idyllic set up and gentle style of Vinyasa that struck a chord.
First off, location. Practising yoga on the huge wooden deck twice a day (sunrise and sunset) was epic. Built high on a hillside at the top of the hotel’s two-acre gardens, its vast view spans the village, sea and sky and gives the feeling you’re a part of the forest canopy along with the hummingbirds and lizards.
Secondly, I really responded to Judha’s heart-felt teaching style which was clear,dd authoritative and delivered in a Caribbean accent that brought sunshine to my soul. Seriously, even when she’s making you do a yoga squat for waaaay longer than you’re comfortable with, you forgive her.
Classes were also less cookie-cutter than many retreats I’ve been on. At one blissful session Judah explained, “breath is the divine, and why would you not want to make more space for the divine?” Good point. At the end of class we lay in shavasana (corpse pose) and she invited us to stay longer if we wanted, so I continued to lie there, breathing, eyes closed, letting in the divine - what a way to start the day.
Incidently, 90 minutes of yoga daily at 7.30am is pretty full-on if you’re not used to that much exercise. Thankfully Judha’s uplifting energy and attitude means you’re soon on board mentally, even if your body wants to be back in bed. She began one session with a story about two dogs which had come bounding up to her on the beach and briefly made her feel special…until they raced off and she realised they were finding joy in everything. She used it as inspiration for the class and asked us to find joy in every little thing that day, from sun salutations to cleaning our teeth and you know what? It worked. Even when my arms started to shake in a prolonged downward dog I grinned (through gritted teeth).
The yoga was strong and pure, but the flow was slow. Ideal for beginners or experienced yogis, there weren't any complicated asana or pretzel-like binds, it was more about perfecting the basics, such as remembering to push down on the outer edge of the back foot in Warrior 2. Poses were also held longer than I’m comfortable with, which was just what I needed - a fast flow can mean missing out on building strength and stamina, finding the right alignment and letting emotions arise.
The thing that captured by heart the most, however, was the powerful sense of place. From the scenery to the sounds - birdsong, a muffled sound system playing in the distance, shouts and laughter from a nearby school, cockerels crowing, waves crashing - this yoga retreat was unmistakably Caribbean.
As the week passed I saw a connection between the One Love ideal that’s imbedded in the archipelagos through reggae and Rastafarianism and yoga’s ahimsa practice (peace and compassion). Perhaps that’s why a yoga retreat in Tobago feels so right, or perhaps it’s simply the heart-warming sunshine.
Was it all Vinyasa yoga?
No. There was plenty of pranayama (breath work) and meditation too, particularly in the more lowkey evening classes expertly led by Leah, plus some slightly more woo workshops.
One evening session, for example, was about connection. Things began easily enough with seated pranayama before Judha invited us to sit on a bolster back-to-back with a fellow yogi. Leaning against someone’s warm back and breathing in unison was intimate yet comforting.
What followed was one of the trickiest parts of the week - prolonged eye contact. We were instructed to turn round and stare into the eyes of the person we’d been leaning against for six (agonising for introverts) minutes. I was partnered with Sheila, a friendly woman I’d thankfully already got to know on the retreat along with her mum and daughter and (perhaps inevitably for repressed Brits) we spent the first 60 seconds giggling. Things began to settle down across the room as we continued to gaze into each others eyes, which felt incredibly exposing. When Judha informed us there was still three minutes to go, Sheila’s eye-roll was pure comedy and we both smiled but managed to make it through.
Afterwards we sat in a circle and chatted about the emotions the exercise had brought up. People mentioned feeling like they were seeing the true person for the first time, rather than a person we project stories onto. It made me realise how rare it is to make eye contact with anyone for a prolonged period of time and that the intimacy and connection it creates is quite remarkable.
Mid-way through the week we were also treated to a Gratitude Workshop with a local kundalini yoga teacher. Asked to keep our minds open, things started with some seated circles from our waist to “fire up the root chakra (muladhara)” followed by a guided meditation tracing the path of our ancestors, “to the first tree in existence as high as a skyscraper,” and at the base of the tree we were asked to imagine ourselves as a child. We spoke to them, held their hand and assured them all would be ok.
For me it was a sweet and moving experience, though I should mention that for some people on retreat who’d had a less happy childhood it hit hard. Things ended on a lighter note with a dance around the deck which saw us stamping our feet, waving floaty white material around and generally letting loose with huge grins on our faces.
Tell me about the food
It ticks all the current nutrition buzz words: fresh, local, seasonal, sustainable and beautifully presented. Every mouthful felt nourishing and each dish a rainbow of colour. Three meals per day are included in the retreat prices, so we ate communally for breakfast, lunch and dinner in the open-sided restaurant, but if that sounds too intense you can always wander into the village for an occasional roti. Memorable dishes included breakfast fruit chia bowls and homemade granola, a rich handmade Tobagan chocolate dessert and delicious fish skewers with red cabbage slaw and pineapple relish.
Drinks wise I kept to water but did treat myself to a Gremlin Margarita one night (apparently it used to be called the Ginger Bastard, but was changed to be more customer-friendly!). Alcohol-free but with plenty of punch in the form of chilli, ginger and lime and served in a salt-rimmed glass, it honestly tasted like a night on the town.
And what was the accommodation like?
I stayed in Hummingbird 1, one of Castara Retreat’s original treehouse-esque cottages (there are now 16) which melts into the landscape and is crafted from local timber, with a sloungy veranda, four-poster bed and dinky open-air kitchen. The perfect escape for dreamers, readers (secondhand books line the shelves), nature-lovers and, err, lovers - this would make a stunning escape for honeymooners.
It’s very easy to fill your day with not very much at all in this cottage, time evaporated as I watched birds flit between exotic flowers and the hanging bird table, nibbled on delicious homemade rum cake (a welcome gift) and curled up on the outside sofa with a book and Carol the resort’s cat (who also attends some yoga sessions when the mood strikes her).
Unfortunately I had to work while I was away, but luckily a new WiFi system had just been installed so I was able to surf the internet and send emails (despite secretly wishing for a digital detox).
Anything else?
Lots, but always laidback. I joined some of the daily (optional) 6.30am mindfulness walks - no talking, just walking, though I could never resist running into the ocean too. One afternoon I borrowed a mask and snorkel and explored the big blue, watching a huge stingray glide by and fishermen pulling in their lines by hand. Another time I walked a nearby waterfall hidden amid the rainforest, spying a rare agouti and alien-looking fungi along the way.
One particularly hot afternoon (temperatures in Tobago hover around 25˚-30˚C) I joined fellow retreaters Sharon and Graham on a stroll to Little Bay reached via a short, sweaty hill hike from the main village. We headed straight into the ocean to bob around, chat and cool down while nobly resisting the urge to buy a chilled Carib beer at the Boat House, a rustic cafe bar edging the sand.
A boat trip, included in the retreat price, was another highlight. After gathering at the beach the group waded to a couple of off-shore boats, while Porridge, Castara's Director of Guests’ Happiness (what a job title), lifted our precious belongings above his head in plastic bags to avoid the swell.
Soon we were speeding along the coastline ticking off the sights, such as Gorilla Rock and palm-fringed Englishman’s Bay, one of the most beautiful and untouched beaches in the Caribbean. After a snorkel session we were dropped off on a deserted beach, jumping off the boats into large waves and body-surfing to shore where Porridge and his son Shakti set up a make-shift table, started a fire and served up rum punch, fish, macaroni bake and salads - the perfect picnic for castaways.
Over lunch I caught up with Castara Retreat’s eco-minded owner Steve Felgate, who was on the yoga retreat with his family and revealed he’d fallen in love with Castara more than two decades ago while on holiday. Local legend Porridge helped him secure some land and the rest is history, though his aim now is to help preserve this tranquil pocket of the Caribbean and protect marine life too. An entrepreneur with ethics, his other enterprise, Cynefin Retreats near Hay-On-Wye, sounds an equally idyllic way to lose yourself in nature albeit closer to home.
We snoozed and swum and all too soon it was time to head back, the two boats racing through the sea to Castara Bay, which by then felt like home.
Verdict
If you’re looking for a yoga retreat that’s nurturing, immersed in nature and will push you just the right amount, this hits the sweet spot. During our last morning session Judha explained that the true meaning of Vinyasa is, “placing with intention, being mindful on the mat and off it with everything you do, whether it’s cleaning your teeth or a sun salutation.”
At one point I attempted wheel pose but, as usual, was unable to fully extend my arms and get the crown of my head off the floor. She asked us to open up our hearts and think of someone we love and give it one last try, my kids sprang to mind and suddenly I found the strength to push up into full wheel for a few glorious seconds. That moment alone was worth the flight.
Go there!
The next yoga retreat at Castara Retreats takes place from 15-22 November and costs from £1399pp, including twice-daily yoga, seven nights’ accommodation in a shared cottage, breakfast, lunch and dinner, boat excursion and transfers.
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