'I went on a four-night mindfulness retreat in the French Alps'
I’m standing on a mountain path surrounded by nettles, but rather than this being a potentially stingy situation, I’m actually being told about their super food qualities by a chef. Yes, it turns out this humble weed is actually packed full of vitamins and nutrients and, well, pretty tasty. Still slightly unsure, I pop on some gloves and forage young buds and leaves to make into health-giving tea and pokra bites back at base.
Base is chalet Ferme À Jules, an Alpine fantasy home set on a mountainside overlooking Morzine; think huge communal lounge and dining room, hot tub, sauna and enough bedrooms to sleep 20, though we’re a party of eight women, so have the run of the place.
I’m here solo on a four-night Summer Flourishing Retreat, led by professional life coach Caitlin Cockerton who I met previously on a two-hour, pre-trip zoom call to discuss what I’m looking for from the trip (how to find the time, head space and motivation to write a book FYI). Hosted by Alikats, which has more than a dozen other chalets dotted around the area, the nourishing, active itinerary aims to empower women to make changes in their life. Here’s what went down…
Day 1: Forest bathing and fire pit rituals
Whisked from Geneva Airport to the mountains by transfer team Skiidy Gonzales (chortle), my friendly fellow retreaters and I are greeted with warm smiles and chilled (non-alcoholic) welcome drinks by Caitlin and Kat (co-owner of Alikats) before our first activity - forest bathing.
Strolling amongst trees in silence while taking in our surroundings through sight, sound, touch and even taste, is trickier than it at first appears. My mind constantly wanders, from things going on back home to what we might be having for dinner - but when I do finally manage to still the chatter, I feel refreshingly present and grounded.
Next up, we take a dip in dazzling Lake Montriond a ten-minute drive away. The deliciously cool water is a shock on my sun-soaked skin, but it feels wonderful to wash away the sweat and heat of the journey and hike, plus egging each other on to take the plunge is a great way to bond with my fellow retreat-goers.
It's only been six hours but I already feel waaay more relaxed than I had at London City Airport, even more so after joining an outside Qigong session barefoot on the grass overlooking the mountains and valley. Led by Ursula (our yoga instructor and masseuse for the weekend), we gently soak up energy from the ground and disperse it around our bodies until I feel a glow in my solar plexus and a real sense of calm.
The day's rounded off writing down our fears and concerns and burning them, ceremoniously, in a fire pit before sitting down to a delicious dinner of vegetarian food grown locally and foraged from the mountainside. I sleep like a baby.
Day 2: Hiking and foraging for dinner
I roll out of bed in time for an 8am breakfast consisting of porridge, berries and Alpine honey, just the fuel needed for today’s hike. We plod along steep paths which make the heart pound and progress slow, yet it feels so rewarding particularly as Caitlin encourages us to walk mindfully, quietly taking in our surroundings. At various stages we stop to chat about how we’re feeling or pair off to discuss topics such as what makes us fulfilled (my children, work, making others happy). I discover I'm feeling pretty happy and fulfilled in life right now, but have concerns about future loss based around aging parents and kids.
An afternoon foraging session with Alikat’s super-knowledgable chef Rochelle's another revelation. I’ve dabbled with foraging before, but she takes it to a whole new level and we’ve only walked a few metres before she’s regaling us with the delights of sticky willy, dandelion (leaves and flower) and nettles. A clump of elderflower smells divine and her instructions on making wine from it inspire me to have a go back home.
Rochelle’s the first person I’ve met who makes foraging uncomplicated and appealing. Back at the chalet kitchen we gather round to watch her turn our foraged bits into deep fried pokra balls, blanching the nettles like spinach and roughly chopping, along with onions, a dash or two of garam malesa, turmeric and garlic salt. It’s simple, hassle-free and served with a garlic dip.
The day winds down perfectly with a deliciously nourishing yin yoga session by candle-light and a cup of sleepy tea made from local herbs. In bed by 9.30pm, feeling calm and tired.
Day 3: Yoga and happy memories
The topic of today’s hike is learning how to store happiness for the future, an idea I love. Everyone’s asked to think of a time they felt strong/happy/confident/over came a fear, choose a place in the body to store that memory then create a stance to be used for a time of need.
As I walk and think, my mind is carried back to giving birth at home and the joy I felt bringing new life into the world. How strong, happy, powerful and emotional I felt. I place my hands on my stomach until it radiates heat and decide to call my stance ‘life’ - which automatically brings a grin to my face, job done. Others share the ice skater, the boxer and the swan, all backed up with glorious descriptions of feeling confident, free and unshackled.
Post-hike there’s a forest yoga session with Ursula, which sees us holding asana until our limbs are shaking and it’s a sweet relief to break the position and flow again. A unique style of yoga that stretches, strengthens and helps release trauma, it’s little wonder I feel exhausted at the end as we slip into svasana.
Dinner’s vegan-themed, including seitan (a gluten block rather than the Devil) made into kebabs in an Asian-style satay sauce; unusual, chewy and not something I’d buy but great to try. Early to bed at 9.30pm.
Day 4: Mountain climbing and wild dancing
The big one. Today we’re hiking 7K up a mountain with our guide Neil, an Alp-dwelling Brit with a fountain of knowledge on the local flora and fauna. We’re only a few minutes in when he leads us to a tree to point out a clump of wispy old man’s beard (apparently an indication of how clean the air is), informs us how to work out the age of a tree by two people hugging it (a complicated formula I don’t fully understand) and gets us to taste Vitamin C-packed pine needles - who knew you can make pine tea from your Christmas tree?
The tuition expands like the scenery, a vast valley ringed by mountains that’s so epic, it feels like we’re on a film set. Cow bells tinkle, the sun beams and the paths are steep but manageable, until we eventually hit the summit and gaze at the peaks sprinkled with snow around us.
A cold wind sets in so we don’t linger long. The track down is as informative and immersed in nature as the ascent, watching a finch dining on dandelion seeds and discovering how Alpine horns are made from wind-whipped curved tree trunks.
Safely back at the chalet, a few of us jump in the hot tub to ease aching limbs and warm up, then it’s time for Ursula’s surprise: ecstatic dancing. Moving to music’s easy when you’ve had a drink with friends, less so sober in a room full of people you only met three days ago. Most of us keep our eyes shut as we sway to the beat, but eventually inhibitions start to drift away and I find myself moving with ease and then joy - I’ve always loved dancing but as I get older the opportunities to do it seems to shrink. When we all eventually sit back down it’s with relief, but the happiness is palpable.
Our final meal's a seven-course vegetarian extravaganza showcasing Rochelle’s immense creative talent; lasagne towers, nettle-filled ravioli, ice cream and fresh ginger biscuits.
The next day, there’s just time to hike in silence to Lake Montriond via the forest, reflecting on the elements, earth, wind, fire, water and air, what they mean to us and how to keep them balanced.
Sitting by the lake post-swim, out final activity might just be the most powerful of all - complimenting each other. Sounds like the easiest thing in the world but praise can be difficult to receive and tears flowed as everyone opened up about the qualities they had seen in others, from authenticity to playfulness and leadership.
All too soon we’re heading for the airport and the mood in the bus is noticeably lighter, chattier and happier than the inward journey. I’ve learnt some new life-coping skills and the time and space on retreat led to light bulb moment when a fellow retreat-goer suggested I convert a book idea into a film script. Who knows if it will come to fruition, but the seed has been planted which is what counts and shows why retreats that give busy women time to stop and think are always a good idea.
The next four-night Spring Awakening retreat at Alikats with Caitlin Cockerton takes place from 22-26 May, 2024. From €1995pp, including food, activities and transfers.
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