The Very British Origins of the Viral New Balance 1906L Loafer
Warrington: home of a massive IKEA, some ornate golden gates, the church where my Goddaughter, Isla, was christened, and – surprisingly enough – the European head office of Boston footwear brand, New Balance.
It is here where the concept of this season's must-have shoe was conceived by two northern tastemakers: Charlotte Lee (Design Manager - EMEA Energy & Speed) and Lani Perry (Global Strategic Business Unit Manager, Lifestyle).
That shoe is the 1906L. Which, to clarify, is the proper name for the New Balance penny loafer of Instagram and TikTok fame.
“It’s fun and refreshing in all the right ways and it cuts through the noise of normality,” is how Lee describes her creation to me over email. In the press release, the Mancunian says that the 2002R mule that the company launched in 2022 was the stimulus. “The loafer felt like a more progressive version of [the mule]. We talked a lot about the luxury fashion space and how there is no longer a hard line between sports and luxury.”
In hopes of positioning the slip-on as fashion's next IT shoe, the silhouette made its debut on the Junya Watanabe runway at Paris Fashion Week back in January. And it worked: tastemakers across the globe coveted the hybrid design formed from an open-holed mesh upper, synthetic overlays and the 1906R sole (which, if you have read my guide to the 1906, you will know is a combination of the original 1906 sole and that of the 860v2). So, no surprise that the shoe instantly sold out when it was launched in a handsome “silver with shadow grey and turtledove” on 19 September.
But don't worry if you missed that drop, as there are lots more are on the way. At least, that's what Lee and Perry implied in our chat.
Here's what else the designers had to tell me about their line-blurring brainchild.
Was the idea to make the 1906 more formal, or did you always set out to make a loafer and felt the 1906 was the right silhouette to work with?
Charlotte: From the outset, we wanted to explore the idea of a loafer – there is no denying the popularity of formal footwear right now and loafers in particular have been gaining momentum – and the 1906 silhouette felt like the right canvas.
Why?
Charlotte: It is the epitome of 2000s tech running for New Balance, and we maintained its integrity whilst elevating it to a more formal realm.
Lani: It embodies the spirit of innovation and comfort that defines New Balance. The 1906L maintains the design DNA of the 1906 family while introducing a new, refined approach that expands the line's narrative. It’s about offering something fresh but still rooted in our history. We’ve really explored the possibilities of franchise extensions with the 1906: Yue Wue, Paul Kaseumsouk, and Tetsuya Shono have already done an incredible job of pushing the boundaries of the model with the 1906U and 1906A. This felt right for the next step.
Tell me about the design process.
Lani: The design process started with a conversation between us. Charlotte asked,“Do you think we could create a loafer?”. My response: “Yeah. Why not?”
We drew up a concept blending the 1906R into a loafer and shared it with the wider team We were met with an immediate yes. The hard work began when Jessica Tasker, the product developer, started getting samples back from the factory and spent months testing prototypes. We focused on comfort and fit, experimenting with the upper pattern to ensure that the 1906L not only looks good but feels great too.
Who is the 1906L for?
Charlotte: The 1906L is for anyone who embraces the idea of contemporary style with a nod to tradition. It speaks to the modern individual who wants to make a statement without compromising on comfort.
It’s also for our dads – this is their footwear solution for smart-casual style. We're excited to see how this helps to evolve their looks.
Have you both been wearing pairs?
Charlotte: Absolutely! And the response has been fantastic! People love how they look and are curious about the design. They make everything feel a little more put together and elevated.
Why silver for the first colourway?
Charlotte: Silver is a reference to the original 1906. The story of tech runner meets loafer had to be continued through to the launch colourway. But the model is surprisingly versatile and we are excited to show you where we take it next.
Exciting! What upcoming colourway are you most excited about?
Charlotte: Come back to us later this autumn...
And finally, what is the sizing like on these?
Lani: The 1906L runs true to size. If you’re between sizes or prefer a roomier fit, you might consider going up a half size.
The New Balance 1906L “silver with shadow grey and turtledove” (the OG colourway) is now available on resale marketplaces such as StockX and The Edit Ldn. Further colourways will soon release at retail price (£120) on the New Balance webstore.
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