I’ve been visiting Croatia for decades. Here’s where to go this year
With the third-longest coastline in the Mediterranean – and one sprinkled with more than 1,000 islands and islets – it’s not surprising that Croatia has become a holiday hotspot for discerning travellers.
It has that magical combination of heavenly beaches, delicious cuisine, fascinating culture and beautiful architecture.
I’ve made dozens of visits over many decades to my parents’ homeland, and my list of favourite places grows every year. Whether it’s your first or fifth time in Croatia, here are some of the places you need to add to your list.
And if exploring a few Croatian hotspots in one go sounds appealing, Prima's island hopping adventure could be the trip for you.
Dubrovnik
Take one look at Dubrovnik’s UNESCO-listed Old Town and you’ll see why it’s Croatia’s most-visited tourist spot. Its beauty really is breathtaking, and it’s laid at your feet during a walk along the medieval and Renaissance walls that circle the Old Town and its sea of terracotta rooftops and baroque palaces.
The city’s Banje Beach is just south of the Old Town, but I prefer to hop on the bus to the bigger beaches along the Lapad and Babin Kuk peninsulas to the north. When I want to escape the crowds, I take the shuttle boat to quirky little Lokrum island 10 minutes away to swim in its rocky beaches and stroll past its Benedictine monastery, olive groves and resident peacocks.
You can spend a day exploring Dubrovnik's wonders on Prima's eight-day island hopping cruise, with a guided tour included and time to discover Lokrum.
Rovinj
Tucked into Istria’s western coast, Rovinj is like an exquisite, bijou slice of Venice. It’s hard not to do a double take when you see the similarly colourful 16th- and 17th-century townhouses curling upwards like a snail towards St Euphemia Church in the compact Old Town. But as the Venetians ruled much of Croatia for about 500 years, it’s inevitable that they left such a huge architectural legacy.
I found the best view of Rovinj’s Old Town and port from the little island of Sveta Katarina, easily reached by a regular and cheap boat service. There’s also a large pebbly beach here, handily behind a three-star hotel that’s an appealing place to stay, giving you the best of both worlds.
Hvar
Croatia’s sunniest island is also one of its most popular, with most visitors making a beeline for its capital, Hvar Town, and its lively beach clubs. But there’s so much more to see on the island once you’ve explored Hvar Town and hiked up to the Spanish Fortress that looms over the Old Town and gives you superb views.
The more laid-back Stari Grad, with its gently buzzing port and pebbly beaches, has always been a favourite of mine, and from here it’s easy to reach the attractive seaside villages of Jelsa and Vrboska and their beaches.Get to know Hvar's wonders during a walking tour of its main sights during Prima's island hopping adventure. You'll have an evening to soak up the lively atmosphere.
Brač
Even if you’ve never been to Croatia, chances are you’ll have seen its most famous beach, V-shaped Zlatni Rat which hangs from Brač’s southern coast near the town of Bol. Made of fine white pebbles, Zlatni Rat changes shape every day with the tide, and it’s one of Croatia’ top place for windsurfing.
It’s above here that you’ll find the highest point in the Adriatic, Vidova Gora, which you can hike to or, if you’re feeling less energetic, reach by car. Either way, you’ll have wonderful views of Zlatni Rat, Hvar and, on the horizon, Korčula.
Korčula
Step within the walls of Korčula Town and you’ll instantly be reminded of Dubrovnik, with its Venetian townhouses of creamy stone, terracotta roofs and green shutters. But this smaller, more intimate town is a delight to explore – just follow the narrow marble lanes that fan out from the centre in the shape of a fishbone (designed to minimise the strong winds that blow along the Adriatic).
If you’re a wine lover, take the bus to the fishing village of Lumbarda and try one of my favourite white wines, grk, which is grown and produced only in this small village.
Taste the wine and seafood, and stroll the city walls during Prima's eight-day Croatia holiday that visits seven destinations.
Split
Many visitors to Split see little beyond the port as they catch one of the countless ferries that go to Dalmatia’s islands. But Croatia’s second-largest city deserves more attention, especially when you realise that the Old Town spills out of the ruins of a massive 3rd-century palace built by the Roman emperor Diocletian. After a morning coffee in one of the cafés along the Riva seafront, dive inside the Old Town where cafés and shops have long colonised those Roman ruins.
The city beach, Bačvice, is party central, but I prefer the quieter beaches hugging the Marjan peninsula west of the port. And Marjan itself is a joy to visit – forested paths cover the peninsula and eventually lead down to pebbly coves and beaches. It’s also home to the Meštrović Gallery, which showcases the compelling art by Croatia’s best sculptor, Ivan Meštrović.
Visit Split's Diocletian's Palace and climb the bell tower of the Cathedral of Saint Domnius during Prima's island hopping cruise.
Mljet
Nearly one-third of Croatia’s greenest island is taken up by Mljet National Park, which is one of Croatia’s most beguiling. At its heart are two saltwater lakes, both ringed by hiking and cycling trails and shadowed by forest-covered hills. One experience I’m glad I didn’t miss was taking the small boat across the larger of the two lakes to the islet of Sveta Marija, where there’s a Benedictine monastery among the three churches and pine trees.
There’s more beyond the national park’s boundaries, including the dramatic Odysseus’s Cave on the southern coast. It’s a bit of a rocky hike to reach this popular swimming spot – for those brave enough to jump from the rocky cliff into the deep blue waters. I was more content to watch the spectacle from the cute ramshackle café clinging to the rocks.
Prima's Croatia cruise takes you to the heart of the national park, where you can sightsee by bike, kayak or scooter.
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