My unforgettable clifftop getaway on the Dorset coast's most underrated destination
Cornwall and Devon have long held the top spots in British holidaymakers' hearts, but the Isle of Portland deserves to be on everyone's radar.
A stone's throw away from Weymouth, the southernmost point of Dorset is a hidden gem with luxury accommodation rivalling its (often eye-wateringly) expensive rivals.
The underrated summer staycation spot on England's south coast stands at just six kilometres long and 2.7 km wide – making it very drivable and the perfect place for a whistlestop visit.
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The spectacular Clifftops luxury lodges provided the perfect backdrop to my 48-hour minibreak, which included an early morning sauna with locals, trekking along the iconic Chesil beach, and English sparkling tasting at Langham Wine Estate.
Rooms with a view
Newly opened in 2020, Clifftops is unlike any other self-catered accommodation I have stayed in. Forget your standard seaside Airbnbs: these five uniquely designed lodges are carved out of the Portland stone cliffs that sit on the edge of Penn Castle Estate wedding venue.
Secluded yet open to the elements, the beautiful Blue lodge brought the rugged landscape inside thanks to floor-to-ceiling windows in the living room, complete with a wildlife-watching nook featuring binoculars.
The lodge, which is pet friendly, boasts two spacious bedrooms and two bathrooms, making it ideal for a family trip or two couples - and the master, with its heavenly mattress and sea view, was the cherry on top.
Immaculately designed with sleek, Scandi walnut cabinetry and Le Creuset kitchenware, the kitchen offered everything we needed to prepare meals. Meanwhile, a Bose portable sound system and a Samsung smart TV made our stay comfortable, providing the soundtrack for watching the sun setting over the UNESCO World Heritage Jurassic coast.
One thing I particularly loved about Clifftops was the privacy of the place – while the reception team was on hand for emergencies and the Hayloft café was adjacent to the lodges, we didn't see a soul and found the lock-box check-in process seamless.
We also didn’t hear a peep from our neighbours despite their close proximity. The five lodges, each with a unique design focus inspired by the rugged natural landscape, can be rented individually or booked together to accommodate up to 20 guests.
The complimentary local gin got us into the party spirit as we toasted to a wonderful weekend from the spectacular glass-walled balcony with unparalleled views over the English Channel.
Getting back to nature
Tearing ourselves away from the luxury lifestyle, we woke at dawn for a visit to The Island Sauna. Newly opened in June, the tiny wooden cabin in a car park by the water’s edge has already become a mainstay with local residents.
Open every morning from 7.30 am and evenings from 5 pm, the sauna is a hugely popular pre-work activity. I crammed in with regular sauna-goers for an authentic experience, complete with a woollen hat to help regulate my body temperature.
Curating the perfect sauna experience is a fine art, and business owner Emma is now passionate about sharing her findings with others, crediting saunas for changing her perspective on life.
While saunas are beneficial for everything from muscular pain to improving sleep and heart health, the mental benefits shouldn't be overlooked. My usually anxious mind was stilled and I was left feeling euphoric from the early morning experience after cooling off in the freezing water.
The nature high continued with a long walk on Chesil Beach, one of England’s only World Heritage sights, retracing the same steps from the iconic Saorise Ronan film based on the book of the same name.
After basking in the sun (walking on the pebbled beach is hard work), a visit to Church Ope Cove was in order. The secluded beach minutes from Clifftops is accessible via a steep downhill footpath. Lesser populated, the pretty cove is overlooked by dozens of local residents’ beach huts and a haven for wildlife.
Much to my amazement, I saw a seal basking in the sunshine, unbothered by tourists as it sunned itself in the late afternoon rays.
Vineyard visit
No weekend away would be complete without a liberal amount of wine consumed. Langham Wine Estate on Crawthorne Farm, northeast of Dorchester, made for the perfect stop-off en route back to London, breaking up the 3.5-hour drive (no drinking and driving occurred, Scout’s honour)
Head Winemaker Tommy Grimshaw imparted his wealth of knowledge as we traipsed around the vineyard, revealing how the 34-hectare operation in rural Dorset was born out of owner Justin Langham’s family passion and has grown from strength to strength.
Citing their biggest competition as France’s champagne houses rather than fellow British winemakers, it’s not hard to see why the award-winning English sparkling producers are at the top of their game.
The lush, green terroir harvests Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier grapes, and the newly renovated bar complete with outdoor seating area was ideal for putting the goods to the test. At the heart of their wine business is passion; a small, dedicated team who are truly invested in making the best quality sparkling – and after the wine tasting, I was converted.
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On the long drive back to London, I was left reflecting on how much the Isle of Portland has to offer. My staycation Clifftops was short and sweet, but it certainly made a big impression.
A stay at Clifftops' Blue lodge on the Isle of Portland starts at £663 for 3 nights. Find out more at thepennestate.co.uk/the-estate/clifftops.
