One of the most unashamedly opulent hotels in the UK you should know about
As a travel writer, I’m often asked what the best hotel is. This can get specific: what’s the best hotel for a spa day, for a weekend break, and so on. And frequently, I find myself suggesting Cliveden House to people. Things it’s best for: when you need a spa hotel, when you need a bucolic mini-break, when you need a hotel near London, when a hotel has to have a fine-dining restaurant – I could go on.
Of course, Cliveden should need no introduction. The stately manor is in the Berkshire countryside and a member of the Relais & Châteaux collection of luxury hotels. The house, once the seat of the Astor family after it was bought by American millionaire William Waldorf Astor in 1893, is one of the grandest National Trust properties in the Home Counties. The gardens were designed by the world’s most famous gardener, Lancelot ‘Capability’ Brown (so named for his horticultural talents), and feature a parterre, woodland trails and immaculate lawns. It found notoriety in the Sixties, when its outdoor pool was the scene of the meeting that sparked the Profumo affair. In recent times, it made headlines as the place where Meghan Markle stayed the night with her mother before her wedding to Prince Harry.
The array of cars bound to be parked outside is likely to send petrolheads into a frenzy. When we were there, we spied a supersize SUV Bentley lined up among the brightly coloured luxury sports cars on the gravel, alongside the of course ubiquitous Range Rovers and Chelsea tractors.
Inside the reception hall of the main house, there’s a grand wooden staircase, lots of oversize oil paintings and, naturally, a suit of armour. There are also lots of cosy chairs to sit and enjoy a pot of tea in this space, or you can head into the wood-panelled drawing room for a drink beside the fire, while gazing out at the landscape-painting vista behind the high windows.
Come suppertime, guests can choose between the more formal, chandelier-graced Dining Room. We shared the beef Wellington, which didn’t leave much space for the spoils from the candy trolley that was wheeled over as the final flourish – luckily, striped paper bags are provided for takeaway treats. Then there’s the Astor Grill, which has a Josper oven ensuring that steaks are cooked to perfection. The two restaurants are the ideal combination for guests staying a couple of nights. In the morning, the breakfast room is suitably lavish, with a bountiful spread laid out in a grand salon with gilded walls, chandeliers and brocade curtains.
The spa, home to the nation’s most scandalous swimming pool (so famous it’s listed), is another aspect helping to make Cliveden so special. It hosts regular residencies with leading skincare brands – new for this year is the acclaimed facialist Teresa Tarmey, who has created a menu of glow-giving facial treatments. When we visited, we tried the Oskia x TheraFace facial, which incorporates the British brand’s superlative products, facial massage and use of the LED-light gadget for toning purposes, and left with a glow that lasted all week.
The signature suites in the main house are as grand as you’d expect, with huge marble bathrooms, wood-panelling, vast beds and slipper bath tubs, plus all the gilt edges and portrait paintings you could hope for. A handful have access to a stone terrace, where you’ll be the envy of the daytrippers exploring the grounds below. Suite guests also have access to a shared pantry, where you can stockpile drinks and snacks to enjoy in your room (or out on the terrace in your dressing gown if you really fancy it). The rooms and suites are all named after Cliveden House’s many illustrious former guests, which have over the years included Winston Churchill and Charlie Chaplin. Naturally, the bath products are British, too, and by Scottish brand Noble Isle, which employs authentic ingredients such as whisky into its toiletries.
Of course, there’s a National Trust building on your doorstep too and it’s a real privilege to be able to stay in one overnight. Time spent in the 400-acre grounds is a must, but overnight guests can take in the house at a leisurely pace, as if they were suddenly châtelain. As with any self-respecting National Trust property, afternoon tea is an almost mandatory activity, and in addition to the regular scones and sandwiches, this year guests can explore the history of Cliveden in baked-good form. The new afternoon-tea menu features a fruit cake with an edible version of the fresco that depicts the Duchess of Sutherland’s four children, and a golden egg to represent the Octagon Chapel, final resting place of William Waldorf.
If you want to experience the best of Cliveden for yourself, book this Red Escapes offer, which includes a half bottle of champagne on arrival, a three-course dinner in the Dining Room, and breakfast the next morning, plus a £100 credit to use at the spa. You’ll also tour the house with a butler, who will reveal its many secrets and the famous faces who have checked in over the years, from Queen Victoria to the Beatles.
You Might Also Like
