The ultimate guide to skiing off-piste
Skiing off-piste is considered by some to be the holy grail, especially in spring when the snowpack is traditionally at its most stable. As the weather gets warmer, snow melts during the day, then freezes overnight to create a solid base that is less likely to avalanche. This, plus the longer sunny days and forgiving, means late-season is a popular time to head away from the lifts in search of perfectly preserved powder.
However, skiing ungroomed slopes requires slightly different techniques, clothing and equipment, as well as higher levels of skill and fitness and the right insurance policies. Much like snowboarding or skiing on the piste, you can encounter just about any conditions off-piste, too, while the dangers are different and more complex.
But in the right conditions, with the right tools and skills it can be magical — weightlessly and effortlessly bouncing your way down the mountain through soft, fluffy untouched snow. Here’s everything you need to know before heading off-piste this spring.
In this guide:
Do I need to be a good skier to go off-piste?
When is the best time of year to go off-piste?
The best resorts and courses for off-piste skiing
The basics
What is off-piste?
Skiing or snowboarding off-piste is technically anything that is not within the boundaries of the marked pistes. This varies from the areas you can see from the lifts, accessed easily between the pistes or by walking beyond the lift while carrying your skis, to travelling further afield to areas only accessible via touring or helicopter – increasingly termed as “backcountry” skiing.
Is it safe to go off-piste?
Skiing off-piste carries different, not necessarily greater, risks to skiing on piste. As well as the possibility of avalanche, there could be hidden rocks and drops, as well as trees and cliffs. There is an old adage that skiers should not simply blindly follow a set of tracks in the belief that if another skier went there first, it must be safe. That skier could easily have fallen off a cliff, triggered an avalanche or tackled a slope beyond your experience — knowledge and research is vital.
For these, and many other reasons, skiers and snowboarders should not go far off-piste without a qualified mountain guide, who will have studied the snow, terrain and weather patterns to minimise all risks in order to make the day as safe and pleasurable as possible.
Preparation
Do I need to be a good skier to go off-piste?
“Before going off-piste you should be a confident red piste skier and able to link your turns down the fall line,” says Swiss-based mountain guide Nick Parks. “You should also be very competent at the basics of skiing, especially side slipping, holding a traverse and controlling your speed. Good basic skills mean you can always get down off-piste safely even in the trickiest of conditions.”
Is it worth doing an off-piste technique course?
Definitely. The techniques involved in off-piste skiing or snowboarding are different to those practised on piste, and while it’s possible to work it out for yourself, the risk of injury is higher.
A good course will also touch on assessing the dangers — things like the way a slope faces the sun and its steepness affect its safety — as well as avalanche transceiver training, avalanche bags, search and rescue and even ski touring.
You will also receive training in how to ski different types of snow. Nick Parks explains: “There are 50-plus different types of snow… a run might start off in fluffy powder but change to crust or ice as you descend. Do you have the skills to deal with all snow types? Can you recognise avalanche terrain and manage avalanche risk? If the answer is ‘no’ or ‘not sure’, a course and/or a guide is a good idea.”
What does the technique include?
When skiing off-piste, your balance needs to be over the centre of your skis — if your weight is too far forwards your ski tips will dig into the snow, too far back (which mainly happens with lack of confidence and control), and you are more likely to fall. Skis must be kept slightly further apart than on a piste and flat, you cannot edge your skis in soft snow, and remaining as relaxed as possible allows you to absorb any lumps and bumps in the terrain rather than throw you off balance.
How do I understand the risk of avalanche?
Any good mountain guide will talk you through their decision-making process and educate clients throughout the day. But the best way to understand the risk of avalanche is to train yourself. There are many options available for free or at minimal cost, such as Snow and Avalanche Foundation of Scotland’s eLearning courses and UK transceiver training with Henry’s Avalanche Talk (£75) to dedicated courses in the mountains, such as Upguides’ three-day workshop in the Haute Maurienne including tuition, meals and accommodation from £384 and Guides de Verbier one-hour refresher sessions from £17.50. Many ski resorts offer transceiver training parks where skiers and snowboarders can practise their search skills in their own time.
Do I need special insurance?
Insurance companies classify skiing off-piste as skiing anywhere outside the boundaries of a marked run in Europe or anything inbounds in the USA – even skiing the soft snow between two runs could require insurance that specifically covers you off-piste. Some insurance policies require the skier to only go off-piste with a qualified guide or instructor, so read the small print.
Russell Dadson, managing director of Snowcard, explains: “We have no policy condition that an insured person must go with a qualified guide if they ski or snowboard off-piste. However, if an insured person does not follow resort safety advice regarding conditions off-piste, or enters an area that is not open to off-piste skiers/snowboarders, they risk having a claim declined if it turns out they were not experienced enough or adequately equipped to venture into off-piste areas without a guide. Insurers will usually request an incident report from the rescue authorities.”
Equipment
What equipment do I need?
Skiing off-piste requires a lot more effort; try to avoid insulated jackets and pants and choose a breathable layering system instead – this allows you to adjust your body easily. Choose a pair of skis specifically designed for off-piste — many rental shops offer a good selection of all-mountain skis that are wider underfoot and have a rocker to keep the tips out of the snow. Skis purely designed for piste skiing are often too stiff, heavy and narrow to make off-piste easy or enjoyable. Ski poles should have large baskets on the bottom that don’t sink through soft snow.
A good helmet is also essential. Swedish firm POC produce backcountry-specific helmets that are lighter and more ventilated, including the groundbreaking POC Obex Connect (£500), a helmet with built-in speakers that allows up to eight skiers to communicate with each other on the mountain.
Avalanche safety equipment — a transceiver, shovel and probe — is also essential. A transceiver is a small, battery-powered device that sends a signal to enable rescuers to find you in the event of an avalanche burial; batteries must have at least 70 per cent charge at the start of each day. The Mammut Barryvox S2 (£410) is one of the lightest and smallest transceivers on the market.
Avalanche bags – such as the Mammut Freeride Ava Backpack (£550) – are expensive but evidence increasingly shows they save lives. This advanced technology requires the user to be familiar and confident with its operation and to retrain annually.
Avalanche equipment needs regular maintenance with annual checks and regular servicing. This season Mammut opened the world’s first avalanche centre in Engelberg, Switzerland, which will check and service avalanche kit for free.
Doing it
When is the best time of year to go off-piste?
Skiing off-piste can be done at any time provided there is enough snow — and conditions vary throughout the season. As a general rule, ski touring is at its best in the spring months when the snow base has traditionally been at its deepest and safest, but also the days are warmer and longer. Although powder is best after fresh snowfall, avalanche risks can also be highest.
Who should I go off-piste with?
You should always go off-piste with a mountain guide who is qualified with either their own country association or, better still, the IFMGA (International Federation of Mountain Guides Association). Some ski instructors are qualified to take skiers off-piste, too. You should never, ever go off-piste alone, anywhere.
Pierre Mathey, head of the Swiss Mountain Guide Association (SBV) says: “90 per cent of avalanches are triggered by skiers. Resorts make avalanche and weather forecasts available, but it’s not enough — people see photos and videos of great off-piste and want to do the same, often without the skills, knowledge and experience. Mountain guides offer education as well as guiding.”
How do I find the best areas/resorts for off-piste?
Ask a mountain guide or go with an organised group (see suggestions below).
Can I try off-piste in a secure area beforehand?
Yes. A number of Swiss resorts offer itinerary runs, which are marked on the piste map in yellow — such as the Tortin, Vallon d’Arbi and Mont Gele in Verbier. These are un-pisted, but patrolled to be safe from avalanche and you will be rescued after an accident as you would on the piste.
More and more resorts offer freeride zones — patrolled, controlled areas of off-piste — such as Morzine/Avoriaz, Chamonix and the resorts of the Grand Massif in France. Other resorts, such as Crans Montana in Switzerland, also offer designated trails for uphill ski touring/split boarding ascent that are ideal for beginners – these normally link with a piste so require no off-piste descent.
In the US, you can ski anywhere within the resort boundary whether on or off a trail. That doesn’t mean it isn’t 100 per cent safe from trees and drops, but the resort has a legal duty to ensure you’re safety from avalanches.
The best resorts and courses for off-piste skiing
Argentière, France
Best for value
Action Outdoors offers a seven-night introduction to off-piste skiing in Argentière, part of the Chamonix ski area in France, through the UCPA, from £896, half board, including six-day lift pass, four days of guiding and instruction and equipment rental. Travel extra.
Les Trois Vallées, France
Best for an introduction to off-piste
Jagged Globe offers an off-piste week in Les Trois Vallées for piste skiers who want to transition to off-piste, focusing on techniques to improve performance in all types of lift-accessed off-piste snow. Priced from £1,300 for seven nights in a hotel in Brides-Les-Bains, half board, including six days’ instruction and guiding and loan of avalanche safety gear. Travel, lift pass, lunch and equipment hire extra.
Zinal, Switzerland
Best for intermediate day tours
Backcountry Adventures offers a long weekend of ski touring and lift-accessed off-piste skiing in Zinal, Switzerland for CHF1,500pp (£1,322), half board, including four days’ private guiding (group maximum of four) and accommodation in Chalet PapaGna. Travel, equipment and lift passes extra.
The Stubai Alps, Austria
Best for the hut-to-hut experience
Mountain Tracks offers a five-night, four-day touring trip in the Stubai Alps from the comfortable Franz Senn Hut (2,147m). Previous ski touring experience is needed but the trip is suited to beginners. From £1,025 including two nights in a hotel, B&B, and three nights in a hut, half board, all guiding and return taxi transfers during the trip. Equipment hire, travel, lift pass and some meals extra.
Ólafsfjörður, Iceland
Best for heli-skiing
Eleven Experience offers spring heli-ski trips at their private lodge, Deplar Farm, where you can ski from summit to fjord up to 10 times in a day. Starting from £5,485 per room, per night (minimum three-night stay), including guiding, semi-private heli-skiing, all equipment, food and drinks. Travel extra.
